Can you clean your gun this way?!!!

SMR

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I happened to see this on youtube on cleaning the M&P shield and I was a little perplexed. I was an armor in the Infantry and I was never taught in my armor class to submerge your gun and clean it in soapy water. Please watch the video I attached and tell me what you guys think. Does this hurt the gun at all? Make it rust or worse, no work properly after doing so. Watch from the time of 7:40 to 11:50

How to clean your smith and wesson M&P 9mm Shield - YouTube
 
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While I usually don't clean my pistols this way I have cleaned many AK variants using a similar technique. The key is to make sure you get all the water out. If you don't own an air compressor just submerge it in some mineral spirits to displace the water. Just make sure you reoil immediately.
 
I have never seen that suggested but, I don't think it would hurt anything. As long it's thoroughly dried as soon as it's removed from the water and oiled it should be fine. Dish detergent works very well for removing grease and wax buildup on parts.

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If I was going to strip the weapon of oils and solvent rather than hot soap water I would submerg in rubbing alcohol because it rapidly evaporates and you don't run the risk of missing water and soap residue (which is a rust & dust magnet) left in hard to reach places after air blowing.

I also observed in the video he still applied a very small amount of oil to the "friction points".

Dust is still going to collect at those critical "friction points"

If the guy is so worried about dust collecting why not apply graphite to the rails?

We all agree dust is not good especially in friction points of the weapon so why not strip and lube prior to shooting rather than after shooting as demonstrated in the video if you are so worried about dust?



Russ
 
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I happened to see this on youtube on cleaning the M&P shield and I was a little perplexed. I was an armor in the Infantry and I was never taught in my armor class to submerge your gun and clean it in soapy water. Please watch the video I attached and tell me what you guys think. Does this hurt the gun at all? Make it rust or worse, no work properly after doing so. Watch from the time of 7:40 to 11:50

How to clean your smith and wesson M&P 9mm Shield - YouTube

When I joined the army in 1960 we still used the M-1 Garand with WWII surplus sometimes corrosive ammo, mostly non-corrosive but the Army had a procedure and that was the way it was going to be! We always stripped our rifles, strung the parts on a wire and dipped them in boiling water in 30 gal can fitted with immersion heaters. One can was soapy water another was clean for the final rinse. I'll say one thing, the parts dried darned fast!
 
The method shown is helpful with barrels exposed to corrosive priming, but otherwise, why would you want to do this? I would never do this with the lower or the slide. Failure to get the water out of every nook and cranny is just asking for corrosion. While the barrel and slide are hardened with the melonite process, the internals are not.

In addition, with the M&P, GREAT CARE must be taken to not get the "tampon" wet. The "tampon" is the "thing" inside the trigger return spring in the frame that most people don't even realize is there. Without the tampon, the return spring will literally vibrate itself to pieces. Getting the tampon wet will either: (1) cause the tampon to disintegrate, leaving the spring without its vibration protection; or, (2) expose the spring to moisture, causing the spring to rust and break in normal use. Either way, you don't want this to happen when you need the pistol most. Agencies are told to replace this vulnerable part (the return spring with tampon inside) once per year. Similar instructions are seemingly deemed not important for us commercial users, even though the M&P is sold for defensive purposes.

This tampon-in-spring part has been on S&W polymer autos ever since the SIGMA. The original gun magazine torture test of the SIGMA, by a gun magazine with integrity, resulted in then-unexplained breakages occurring after "dunking" the pistol in a barrel of water to cool it. The tampon got wet, "went south" and the spring broke - alarmingly fast. They assumed it was a "fluke," repeated the process and after dunking, the same result. They finally determined the tampon was getting wet, disintegrating and falling out.

Why S&W ignored the problem and continued to include the part is beyond me. But, it is a weak link. While the M&P pistol is a great pistol for civilian use for either the homeowner or the police, this makes its use problematical for military use as military pistols can and have been subjected to "dunking" either on purpose for cleaning or accidentally, if dropped into water, or incidentally, should the pistol get wet crossing a stream, for instance. Thus, I would not be interested in getting an M&P wet, except for the barrel, but only then if it were exposed to corrosive priming or salts, etc. Otherwise, why bother?
 
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It's not the way I would do it, but yeah- you can clean your guns that way. I would be more confident of this method after seeing the internals of the slide and frame of a gun that had been cleaned this way after a couple years-stripped down and laid out on a white sheet. Wouldn't have any problem at all cleaning the barrel and rod/spring this way-especially if all I had on hand was Dawn and a tub of water
 
There is absolutely no reason to go through that. I guess if you dropped your gun in a giant mud puddle it might be necessary.

If I did clean it that way, the water would be almost scalding hot to help evaporate afterward. Then I'd just about douse the gun in WD-40. Even so, I see no value in what he's suggesting.
 
I agree with the others, you can, but you shouldn't, at least with the M&P with its 'tampon.' The tampon is what's stopping me. The last thing I want is for that spring to break, granted it's supposed to be an easy fix, but why break something on purpose if you're not intentionally testing to destruction?
 
Unless you are a black powder fan, solvent/CLP products are a much better option than soap & water.
I am more worried about rust than dust.
 
I'm not advocating the boiling water in a drum method, but I can remember cleaning M16's this way a long long time ago. I seem to remember the "cleaning" solution smelled suspiciously like mineral spirits mixed with water (didn't smell like pure mineral spirits, just a faint smell) then we dunked them in boiling water to rinse and they dried instantly when pulled out. Then we spent a long time lubing everything with LSA.
 
If I was going to strip the weapon of oils and solvent rather than hot soap water I would submerg in rubbing alcohol because it rapidly evaporates and you don't run the risk of missing water and soap residue (which is a rust & dust magnet) left in hard to reach places after air blowing. Russ

Since rubbing alcohol is highly flammable, I would be VERY careful doing this. Enough alcohol to submerge a gun would put enough fumes into the air, that if any spark happened nearby, it could set it off and also disappear quickly from evaporation. If you do it in a closed container, like a very large plastic pickle jar, so it doesn't evaporate, still be careful. Same thing goes for any highly flammable liquid like lacquer thinner. Also, since these liquids will leach the water from your skin, wear thin Latex or Nitrile gloves, to prevent your hands from drying out and cracking.
 
Why spend $400 plus for a firearm and cut corners to save a dollar on cleaning supplies. I see posts where guys suggest motor oil, WD40, dish soap, break fluid and a list of other incorrect products to clean and lube their gun. They may work in a pinch but other than that, why?
 
Why spend $400 plus for a firearm and cut corners to save a dollar on cleaning supplies. I see posts where guys suggest motor oil, WD40, dish soap, break fluid and a list of other incorrect products to clean and lube their gun. They may work in a pinch but other than that, why?
No pistol in the dishwasher....I am definitely with you on that one.
Just don't ask me to give up my Mobil 1 & non-clor brake cleaner for metal parts. I may be frugal, but my stuff runs! :D
 
I've cleaned many a M2, m240, m249 in a shower, hell even a few filthy m16/m4s. But I wouldn't do it with my pistol. Even a lot of range time wouldn't warrant submerging it in my opinion. Most pistols are too easy to clean with a dab of clp to break down carbon.
You could submerge it but getting all the water out and getting oil into the interior of the weapon to prevent rust would be a biotch.
 
Hey Shawn, if I might? I have been a LE armorer since S&W was still making it's metal frame pistols, even before the 1st of their polymer pistols was intoduced. Been thru several Armorers classes from S&W since that time. To include even the hated SIGMA pistol. Originally the SIGMA had much a better trigger pull back then. When S&W scrapped the 1st SIGMA's and brought them back as the SW VE series, the State of Mass changed the law on them, and the gun had to be built with a 10lb trigger pull. And no, I don't remember the lawsuit with Glock(which was settled out of Court, IIRC) being the reason for the trigger change. The lock work in a SIGMA is NOT similiar to a Glock, period. I might be mistaken about that, but I don't believe so.
Anyway, what I was told about the "tampon" was that it was put in the trigger return spring to dampen the vibrations that were occuring in the spring, while the pistol was firing. In a few rare instances, the early SIGMA springs would sometimes fracture at the hook bend. S&W investigated the problem, and the Engineers decided to put in the "Tampon", as a vibration snubber. That worked, and works well still. However, several things come to mind. In the past 20 years or so, being around lots of SIGMA's(God love 'em...lol!), M&P's, and SD's, both in LE and civilian hands, I have yet to see one break. I have also yet to see any trigger return spring missing the "tampon", although I would wager that someone, somewhere has probably lost or removed theirs. Another point is that spring technology and manufacturing has advanced greatly in the last 20 years. Materials and heat treating are much improved, making springs almost(almost, but not quite) indestructable.
Oh, and one other point. They don't talk about it, but I know for a fact that in very rare cases, Glock trigger return springs break as well. And not knocking Glock, either. I like them very much, I just don't like the trigger pull on 'em. Just personal preference. Glocks trigger springs are almost identical to S&W's and suffer the same vibrations. Glock considers it a very small problem.
end result is this, rest assured that trigger return spring breakage in M&P's and Glocks is almost a non issue. And even if it happens, it's an easy fix that anyone can do. If in the field and it occurs, your trigger finger, or a support finger can be used to push the trigger forward and the weapon's trigger will reset. Not the best solution, but a workable expediant fix until the problem can be addressed.
Just don't worry about it, it's not a problem.
Also, rest easy knowing I was not trying to call you down in anyway, I just thought I would relate my experience over the years with lots of rounds down range. For your perusal, if you like.
Thanx, my Brother,
Ofc.JL
 
Oh, and the cleaning thing? Washing any firearm with water is just not a good idea. It could lead to a whole raft of other concerns and problems, trust me.
One of the first problems is that water is not the correct solvent for hydrocarbon oils and solvents. They do not mix. They can be forced to emulsify, but again, wrong moleculear mix. Old "oil and water don't mix" adage.
Water left in a firearm(and it will be unless it is removed by heat) can cause numerous problems later on, most of which are irreperable damage. I work too hard and don't have the money to waste buying firearms ruined by water damage.
To all, just don't do it.
Black Powder Guys; You Guys know how because it was worked out many, many years ago, just for black powder. Cartridge firearms, even with corrosive ammo, no. Plenty of ways to clean w/o putting water into the delicate area's of a firearm.
Thanx All again,
Ofc.JL
 
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