Can you get a .38 special cylinder for a 686?

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reppans

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My range doesn't allow the use of magnums due to the backstop and shooting the shorter shell specials from the magnum leaves a serious crud ring in the cylinders that's near impossible to clean. (And yeah, I've tried the oversized brush on a drill, and flared .357 case as a scraper.... still way too hard to remove.)

Is there a .38 special cylinder that S&W makes that I can swap in and out on my 686?
 
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No, I don't think that S & W makes a specialized .38 cylinder for a 686.

I'm having a little problem understanding why removing the carbon left over from .38s in your 686 is such a big deal. How often do you clean? I shoot .38s from my Models 27 and 19 all of the time without any carbon buildup problems. I do clean after every trip to the range. I brush my chambers with a .40 cal. brush (sometimes I use a .45 cal brush if I think I need a bit extra friction). Usually a 1/2 dozen passes will break all of the carbon free.
 
While there were a few (CONRAIL & export) .38 686s made. Even if a cylinder was still available, it would be $$$ to have it fitted properly.
As suggested, proper cleaning will eliminate the carbon ring issue. When (infrequently) I encounter them, an overnight soaking with Kroil followed by the aforementioned .40 cal brushing does the trick.
If you reload, its easy to assemble mild range/target loads (even full wadcutters) in .357 cases, thus eliminating the issue altogether
 
I haven't had the OP's problem, but I've seen some really dirty
powder used in some cheap 38's and of course in reloads. When I
get bigger, I may want to get a .357. Sure hate to go thru that.
TACC1
 
I clean after every range trip, which is about 125 rounds. At this point, the crud ring feels like it is just starting to bind .357 cases. I have a slightly flared empty .357 case that I use as a scraper - it fits snugly when the cylinder is very clean. After 125 rounds, I'm wrestling with it once it hits the crud ring.

I use a .40 or .45 brass brush and take several passes with the crude ring pre-soaked with Hoppes 9 or Ballistol and even use a drill sometimes.... it still feels like it's being removed a molecule at time.

Perhaps I'm trying to get it too clean (where you can see the cylinder wall again), but I just have this fear that if I leave it, it will continue to build/grow and effectively petrify in there.

Everything else on the gun cleans up fine... it's just that damn 1/4 inch between the .357 & .38 case size that's driving me nuts.
 
reppans said:
Everything else on the gun cleans up fine... it's just that damn 1/4 inch between the .357 & .38 case size that's driving me nuts.
Click to expand...

Actually its only 1/10". I guess that's why everyone, including me, is wondering why you're having such a cleaning issue. :confused:
 
AFTER your usual cleaning process, in a dry cylinder I wrap
Birchwood Casey Lead remover cloth on a 32 cal. brush and go to town.
It effectively polishes the chamber and removes the residue.

A.F.
 
There is a very recent run of .38 Special model 686s that were on auction...I'd call the factory and see if they have a spare cylinder available if that is the route you want to take. It may take some minor fitting.
 
I'm sure I am not the only one here that has shot tens of thousands of .38 Spl. cartridges through my .357 Mag. revolvers without problems.

If the chambers are leading up to the point that .357s are hard to insert, use a Lew's Lead Remover. I use it occasionally but it really isn't necessary. Normally using a bronze brush for 10+ swipes will do the job.

Good luck.
 
I too am baffled by the claim that the crud is at all hard to clean. I use a Brownell's chamber brush, which is a slightly oversize stainless brush for revolver cylinder chambers only. One push thru and the chamber is spotless. I have them in both .38/.357 and .44/.45. I actually carry them in my range bag and do it right at the range when I'm done shooting. It takes all of about 15 seconds to zip thru all six holes, and you're done.

They don't make them for .22 revolvers, so I just use a .243 rifle brush on the K22 chambers.
 
If you're willing to have a 38 Spl dedicated gun why not just dedicate a .357 cylindered gun to 38 Spl? There's no effective difference.

You'll still get gunk in it or not and will still clean it or not the same way.

There's nothing magical about the 38 Spl only cylinder other than you won't shoot .357s in it. So don't shoot .357s in your 686 and you have the same end result.
 
Here are a couple of cleaning tips that I probably should have mentioned in replying to the OP.

1. Brush the chambers with a dry brush before using any solvent. The brush actually generates more friction without solvent (especially if it is oversized). I find that brushing alone will usually take out the carbon ring.

2. If that doesn't work, run a swab down the chambers that has been smeared with some J & B bore paste. This is a mildly abrasive compound that isn't hard enough to erode steel but that is sufficienty coarse to eat through carbon. You can buy it online from Brownell's. After you've done that, then repeat brushing with the paste residue still in the chambers. Then swab with solvent soaked patches. You'll be amazed at what comes out! The first 2-3 patches will be totally black.

I find that dry brushing alone will work 99% of the time.
 
Call S&W and ask them first hand. I would think the custom shop could fit you a cylinder. $$$. Or just buy a .38.
 
357 cart crud cutter

I bet the .357 case you are cleaning with, is also "dull". Check to see if you need to "sharpen" or, put a slight "edge". on the case. I would also drill out the primer for a wood screw into a handle. Spray it gold and send me the patent money.
Mike
 
Lots of good ideas folks, thanks.

Allen-frame - I've tried the Birchwood Casey Lead Clean Cloths, they do work but still pretty slowly.

Palmetto SS - I've seen the Brownells lead remover video before and may try that as an option next.

Patrick L - Also heard about the SS brush, but I'm little worried about scratching.... everyone always seem to recommend using only brass in the bore (definitely) and cylinders (probably less important though).

Stevieboy - I haven't tried the dry brush yet, but it makes sense. Most of the other gunk in the gun, that comes out pretty normally, always seems to do well with the pre-soak. Since this crud ring is more cement like, perhaps I'm just reducing the effectiveness of the brass brush by effectively lubricating it first.

gr7070 & Titegroups - I've considered just shooting .38s only, or getting a second .38 gun, but I like occasionally shooting .357s at another range, and I do like the weight of the full underlug on the 686, not to mention trying to save a few bucks by staying with one gun. But here's another option you guys have me thinking about - just get another matching .357 cylinder and dedicate one for .38s :D (assume it wouldn't need to be "fitted"?). Swapping cylinders would seem to be a lot easier on the rare occasions I do shoot .357s, than trying to clean the special crud ring out after every range trip.

tomuchiron - exactly right.... I just bought a small sharpening bit for my dremel that'll fit inside the .357 case, and yes, I have already popped the primer and insert a long screw & bolt to give me something to hold onto :D. I'm now looking for a good cone-shaped object to give the perfect flare on the casing too. One annoying thing I've notice, not all my cylinders are exactly the same size. The flared casing sticks on certain cylinders, while it's loose on others, even bone clean..... I'm going to need a couple different sized scapers.

Perhaps not surprisingly, I find that the "special" crud ring problem tends to bother the noobs (that's me :o) more than the veterans.... it seems to drive every noob at my range crazy, although most of the veterans I know are mostly avoiding the whole problem since they are hand loading lighter loads in .357 cases ;). I may get to re-loading at some point, but I'm not there quite yet.

Anyways, thanks for the comments and all the good suggestions.... half this is probably me just being an anal noob :o.
 
Last edited:
You may wish to try this and its cheap.

Go to the store and buy the copper "Chore Boy" pads or any other copper, woven cleaning pads.

Take a .38 caliber brush and pull strands from the copper pad and wrap them around the .38 brush until you have a tight fit in the cylinder.

Scrub. Works exceptionally well, and better than a Lewis Lead Remover. Especially on the bore.

I use the Lewis on the bore if it is heavily leaded but the Lewis does not get the lead that lies in the land corners. That's where the Chore Boy excels.

The Lewis is best for removing lead buildup in the forcing cone of the barrel, a revolver cleaning necessity I think.

Good luck.

Or buy a nice M64 (heavy barrel) in .38 Special and shoot it at the range. There's several of them on the market right now. Police buybacks I think.

The price of the M64 might rival the price of a .38 Special cylinder fit.
 
Seems like much adieu about nothing to me. I have never had a problem and have fired hundreds of thousands of .38 SPL in .357's of many types without a problem. I run a .40 bore brush through the cylinder and whatever was in the cylinder is now gone.
I find it to be no big deal at all.
Randy
 
Ah yes, the last option I've read about before is Chore Boy wrapped around a brush, that's definitely worth a try.... and with a slow speed drill.

I personally do not have the guts to put a stainless steel brush into my gun, so I think a cutting tool not an option for me.

Thank you again, folks.... great ideas.
 
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