Can you get a .38 special cylinder for a 686?

Buying a .38 cylinder, if you can even find one, and having it fit would cost about the same as picking up a nice used M10 or M64. Then you would have two guns.

I have been shooting .38s in .357s for more than 20 years. Only once have I had any issue getting the cylinder clean. That was on a 40 year old Colt that I am sure had nver been cleaned of this ring. I doubt it had ever fired even one round of .357 ammo before I purchased it. Even then It only took about 30-45 minutes of scrubbing with Hoppes and a .40 cal bronze brush.
 
Instead of giving the OP a hard time, I'm going to agree with him. On those occasions when forced to shoot 38s in a 357 I had a heck of a time getting the chambers completely clean. I have adopted the policy of only shooting 38s in 38 Special revolvers and 357s in Magnum revolvers. I realize most disagree but I understand where the OP is coming from. My suggestion is a dedicated 38 Special revolver. YMMV!

Dave
 
I don't know that I have ever removed all the lead/stains at one cleaning. I start with a chore boy or lewis lead remover, then use a paste. Eventually it works.

;) I know you've said you want to keep the 686, but this might be a "good" reason to look at an N frame 38/44.....
 
buy another .357 cylinder, stamp/mark/etch the back of it it some identyifying capacity, then and only shoot .38's in it (and don't worry about the carbon)

Or, chuck up a bronze chamber brush in your drill, I would avoid stainless as well.
 
You can easily find 686 cylinders for sale on an auction site.

If you want a spare.
 
The most accuaret revolver in my extensive group in 38 Spewcial is a pre WWII 357 registered magnum. It was used by a nbullseye pistol shooter after it's original purchase ad i do not encounter any difficulty cleaning up the residue from firing 38 Special cases in 357 Mag cchambers. Pwerhaps a bit more elbow grease and a hgood dose of Hoppes #9 is in order.
 
Well, I know I'm not totally crazy. The latest issue of American Rifleman (Oct. '11, if you're an NRA member) discusses the problem on page 52 in an article about reloading .38s and .357s. The other thing I've read, and it made sense to me, was that if the crud ring is thick enough to cause .357s to bind, it could adversely affect the crimp on a .357 bullet potentially raising pressures to dangerous levels.

As I mention in my post #16, and others have recommended above, what sounds like the best solution if I really don't want to deal with the additional cleaning hassles, might be to go for another .357 cylinder and dedicate one for .38s and the other for .357s. Towards this end, I gave S&W and quick call and understand that the parts for a spare cylinder/rod and labor to cut the ratchet timed to my gun, would run around $200 or so. That certainly sounds a lot better to me than getting another gun.

I'll still try some of the other recommended cleaning routines, and even maybe just let that damn crud ring go with only normal cleaning. Perhaps it never really gets a chance to accumulate to a dangerous level, consider how many people seem to have no issues with it.

Thanks again for the comments folks... I think I'm done here. :cool:
 
reppans may be done here but I would like to add that the idea of purchasing another 686 cylinder and dedicating it to .38 Special only sounds like a good fix as well.

Out here in the "West" I can access five different gun ranges (one indoor) and lots of open "gubmint" land to shoot on.

Back east folks may not be so lucky and it sounds like reppans is very restricted as to where he can shoot and as to what.

Hence he has a unique challenge.
 
I believe Numrich's still has 7 shot titanium 242 cylinders available. You could get one of those and have it fitted to your 686.
 
Has anybody swapped a 242 cylinder into the 686? how much work has been done aside from the extractor-hand fitting?
 
3.3 grains of Bullseye under a 148 hbwc in .357 mag brass - problem solved. Or you could get a brand new 67, which is basically a 64 with 686 sights.
 
I have had very good luck with SLIP 2000 for all my cleaning purposes. Given it a try - dissolves powder and crud, non-toxic.
 
Over the last 10 years I have shot many thousands of 130 grain jacketed .38 special factory ammo. As you are purchasing new and not reloading yet and you did not say which ammo you were using, here is my experience. Winchester 130 grain leaves a rock hard ring that is difficult to remove, Remington also leaves a hard ring, but to easier to clean than the Winchester. Federal, on the other hand, leaves very little residue and is easy to clean, just a few passes with a brush. Perhaps a change in ammunition will make cleaning less frustrating. Good luck.
 
Federal, on the other hand, leaves very little residue and is easy to clean, just a few passes with a brush. Perhaps a change in ammunition will make cleaning less frustrating. Good luck.
I've shot thousands of Federal/American Eagle through my two .357 magnum guns. I, too, have no issue whatsoever. They're also the cheapest 38s I can find.
 
Rough chambers?

Compare your 686 with another revolver that does not have cleaning issues.
You might have rough chambers thats causing your misery.
There are various ways to polish the chamber to make your life easier.
 
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