Cartridges get stuck in Charge Holes

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I have cleaned the charge holes and the rounds before firing slip and fall out perfectly. After discharging 2 of the holes must be tight and the cartridges won't eject. Any quick fix or to the gunsmith it goes??
 
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What gun are we talking about? Different models might have different problems. But residue is a major possibility.
 
Factory ammo or reloads?
Old brass? Hot loads?
Try rubbing a little Johnson's paste wax inside the chambers. The wax will melt upon firing and the cases should slide out a little easier.
 
Polishing the chambers would likely fix things: a 15 minute job for a competent gunsmith.

Very simple job.
 
If the same two charge holes allow the brass to bulge, they may have been fired with overpressure rounds. If so, best to have a gunsmith examine it. Hope it is a gun with an easily found replacement cylinder if so.
 
O/P first welcome to the forum.
Now for anyone to offer specific advise, we would need the make, model, and caliber of the revolver that is causing the problem.
 
Ok it is a 1961 Model 14-1 in 38 Special and it is in very good shooting condition. There is not any build that I can see. I can completely disassemble the Pistol and have imsepected the cylinder and it looks perfect. Every type of ammo does the same thing. Unfired the rounds fall out just be tilting but once fired I have to tap the extracter pretty hard to eject the two rounds
 
If it's the same two charging holes ever time. Get a .40 caliber brass brush, chuck it up in a drill and really clean out the charge holes. Do remember to use a drop of good gun oil in the charge holes.

Good luck.
 
I have used an electric drill with a patch wrapped around a brass brush and coated with JB bore paste or flitz. I've had to do that with several K22s. Larry
 
While none of us can diagnose the problem without inspecting the revolver, Murphydog may have sniffed this one out. In the two offending charge holes look for dimples caused by over pressure cartridges pushing the wall out into the cylinder stop notches. That's the weak point in S&W cylinders that have an even number of chambers. Hopefully you have a more easily fixed problem but look for dimples.
 
Ok that didn't work so I took it to a very reputable gunsmith and first he wanted to buy my gun!! He took it apart and determined the previous owner probably shot 38 S&W's through it! And over time fouling has built up because of him shooting a shorter round! My gunsmith is soaking the cylinder and cleaning it for me and test fire it with my Ammo and we will from there
 
Good answer! Some .38 Special charge holes have just enough variation to be able to accept .38 S & W rounds, and doing that would gum things up pretty well.
 
There is kind of a spectrum that these sort of problems occur on, with the remedy at one end of the spectrum being cleaning the cylinder and the remedy on the other end being replacing an improperly machined cylinder. Occurring most often (in my experience) is a remedy in the middle of the spectrum which involves tightening one of those fluffy bore cleaning attachments into a drill, coating it lightly with Mother's Mag Polish or some other mildly abrasive compound, then polishing the (cleaned) cylinder chambers with the drill and attachment.

Best to use a slower drill speed at first to keep the polishing compound from flying everywhere. As the compound disappears, you can use a higher drill speed to get a smoother surface. Best to remove the cylinder, but not absolutely necessary if you don't feel confident doing so. Just make sure you maintain good control of the drill so the chuck doesn't damage the finish of the gun.

If the spent cartridges simply won't come out with anything less than the most extreme force, I suspect you're at the bad end of the spectrum, with machining or cylinder replacement necessary. I had this happen once on a Heritage 1873 Colt clone in .357 mag. But I sent it back to Heritage and they made it so the spent cartridges came out like they were greased with butter. Didn't even need to use the extractor. Very fixable problem.
 
I just don't want to replace this cylinder with someone else's junk. There are 3 model 14 cylinders out on the web for sale thatI can find. 75-90-100 bucks
 
Perhaps others have better knowledge, but I am concerned that .38 S&W could be inserted into the chambers. From what I read, reaming .38 S&W to .38 Special results in bulged cases. The .38 S&W is a tapered case with a larger body at the rim than the .38 Special. I have never tried it, but I wonder if the .38 S&W will fit into a properly sized .38 Special chamber.

I had .357 Magnum that had that trouble. I found a gunsmith that polished the chambers and it extracts very easily now.
 
I assumed that you would have seen fouling build up and you wrote:
[...] There is not any build that I can see. I can completely disassemble the Pistol and have imsepected the cylinder and it looks perfect. [...]
It is good that fouling is the problem. I have never resorted to using electricity or abrasives capable of removing steel only to clean out fouling. A Lewis Lead Remover will remove it as will a tuft of brass wool or solid copper dish scrubbing pad wrapped around a bore brush that is a size larger than the revolver's caliber.

Based on the guns I owned at the time I tested, most .38 Specials and .357s will not accept .38 S&W cartridges but some will. That is also true for .38 Super cartridges. Both of those cases are only slightly larger diameter than .38 Special or .357. Lyman sells a single carbide die set for loading both .38 S&W and .38 Super. .38 Special chambers that are on the large side of normal will accept .38 S&W. It is also possible that your gunsmith assumed the previous owner fired .38 S&W without considering the possibility that he fired .38 Short Colt. .38 Short Colt cases are the same diameter as .38 Special. Either way pricing cylinders now is shopping for trouble that you do not have.
 
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I had a couple of M-19's that gave hard extraction. Both cylinders would accept FIRED .38 S&W cases shot in a pre-Victory .38-200.

I contacted Speer and they advised that they had seen similar guns, as had a leading gun writer. This was in the 1970's. It was lousy QC on Bangor Punta's part.

Speer said I might fare better by buying a Colt .357. Their quality was better.

I also had a M-34 that required pounding the extractor rod with a mallet to extract. Probably tight chambers. I replaced the gun with a stainless Ruger .22 auto and resolved to never again buy an S&W .22 revolver. In any event, a small .38 better serves the kit gun role than does a .22. The M-60-4 was ideal for that.

I hope you get the problem resolved. I am very bitter when I encounter factory defects in a new gun.Those may be needed to save someone's life, and QC flaws are despicable. Guns are not just an average consumer product. I hope you don't need a new cylinder.
 
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I've seen this in 357s that had a lot of 38 special shot thru it. A stiff cleaning and all was good.
 
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