Case forming .222 Remington brass

[dsf]

You might consider using 222 Remington.

Ivan

I'd expect that would work but the attraction of 5.56 is cheap and readily available. The 222 Remington case would still have to be cut & trimmed to 351 length. A 221 Fireball case would be about the easiest, case length is close enough to probably trim rather than cut & trim. But for not caring whether I get brass back or lose a few I think the 5.56 works best for me.

 

[Ivan the Butcher]

One of the issues with forming 223 into any other case is that just below the 223 shoulder is a case wall area that is variable in thickness. When I form either 300 Blackout or 30 Mauser, I FL size. I then trim to length & Inside neck ream (to .308"). This brings the finished neck wall thickness is around .010! (I use a Forrester "Original" trimmer, with a .308" ream instead of a pilot and a cordless drill at around 1000 RPM)

Also, LC military 5.56 brass has different wall thickness down around the case head. Brass for M-16 use is thinner than brass for belt fed use, by around .0004-.0005 inches. You won't be able to weigh the difference unless your scale can accurately weigh in .005 grains. The typical powder scale is +/- .1 grain and won't pick it up. I don't own a scale or tubular micrometer that can measure that small, but it is in the specifications.

The reformed 222 neck wall thickness will then have an inconsistency that cannot be corrected by neck turning. If you try by neck reaming, normal "Unsupported" reams must be at fast RPM's and the ream MUST be extremely sharp! Otherwise, it just pushes that bulge back to the outside. The old RCBS Neck Reaming dies hold the outside of the neck in place, so the extra thickness has no option but to be removed. It is an extremely time-consuming process!

Most varmint or hunting 222 Rem chambers are loose enough that none of this matters! Charge weight and bullet weight consistency are more likely the accuracy problem. A match chamber is a different story.

Ivan

 

[H Richard]

4198 powder was originally (and still is) "the" .222 powder. My Sako (1950's sporter weight) prefers the 52 gr. Speer along with the 4198. Luckily I have plenty of brass, and in my 1st loading case prep uniform the primer pocket and inside debur the flash hole. The 2nd loading, neck size only, is trimmed if needed, and outside case neck turning (if needed). I usually count on 1/2 MOA or better accuracy.

 

[max503]

I have moulds for every firearm I own ... the day could come .
Gary

That was my thinking when I bought my first mould. Then I actually used it and I've been shooting cast boolits in all my guns ever since.

 

[elpac3]

Second firing. Cases were neck sized using the Lee collet neck size die. Reloaded with Sierra 52 grain Match Kings with H322 powder. Case necks had been annealed, provided very uniform .003" neck tension.

Lake City brass now shot less than 1/2 MOA. Big improvement from the first firing.

While time consuming, reforming cases has expanded my reloading capabilities and should there come a shortage on .222 or .221 cases, I am now confident I can reform them from available .223 brass.

Thanks to all who offered tips and tricks - they worked out!

 

[M29since14]

Thanks for the update. Glad to know you were successful after the initial firing.

 

[jcelect]

Off topic, but pertaining to the topic!

Annealing? ! ? For those with experience? !
Do you anneal before sizing/forming or at end of the process? Do you water bath after annealing or set it aside and cool naturally? In the past I have formed .224 Harvey K Chucks from 22 Hornet, 7mm TCU from .223, and .256-Win Mags from 22 Jet! All of these require firing forming to expand the necks. I have never formed by reducing the neck(357 Mag to .256 Win Mag because of the reaming required and the cost of the dies required!
jcelect

 

[cmj8591]

Great experiment. Sometimes it's not about should you do these things but can you do these things. Try reaming the mouth before you do your outside turning. I would ream, neck size, outside turn then neck size again. I am also a disciple of reaming the primer pockets and flash holes for my accuracy loads. This is important with military cases as there is a lot of variation. You will be surprised at how much brass you will be removing. I have never been able to get any other 22 center fire to shoot more accurately than the 222. They are really a great caliber. It's too bad it has fallen by the wayside. I've never done this conversion but I think I might have to give it a try. Just because I can.

 

[M29since14]

Annealing? ! ? For those with experience? !
Do you anneal before sizing/forming or at end of the process? Do you water bath after annealing or set it aside and cool naturally? …

I've always heard the old rule of thumb for annealing in case forming is anneal first when necking up (as in taking .30-06 to .35 Whelen, or something like that) and anneal after forming when necking down. I always drop my cases into water to stop the migration of heat, but really I think it's more a matter of personal preference.

Without any sophisticated equipment to help analyze and control the annealing process, I've always consider my techniques pretty primitive, but I've had enough experience with it that I do quite a bit of it - and I think I'm doing myself some good. Like neck turning, opinions about annealing seem to be all over the place. In forming .222s from .223s, annealing shouldn't be necessary, but it shouldn't hurt, either. I'd definitely neck turn.

 

[rockquarry]

I've always heard the old rule of thumb for annealing in case forming is anneal first when necking up (as in taking .30-06 to .35 Whelen, or something like that) and anneal after forming when necking down. I always drop my cases into water to stop the migration of heat, but really I think it's more a matter of personal preference.

Without any sophisticated equipment to help analyze and control the annealing process, I've always consider my techniques pretty primitive, but I've had enough experience with it that I do quite a bit of it - and I think I'm doing myself some good. Like neck turning, opinions about annealing seem to be all over the place. In forming .222s from .223s, annealing shouldn't be necessary, but it shouldn't hurt, either. I'd definitely neck turn.

Just another opinion, not the basis for an argument...I haven't annealed brass in many years. I used the technique when forming .219 Zipper brass from either .25-35 or .30-30 brass. Annealing was the last of several steps. My methods were also probably quite primitive in comparison with what is done today. Annealing was allegedly necessary after all the cold-forming steps so that brass life would be a reasonable one. I think it helped in my situation, but don't know for sure. While the annealing process may extend brass life, I prefer to buy new brass when what I'm using is worn out.

Few annealed brass thirty or more years ago. Whether or not the process is as useful as some claim, I don't know but I do have some doubts. However, annealing done right likely does no harm. It does seem to have taken on some fad characteristics, but again, there may be something to it. I don't worry about "neck tension" if my rifle handloads are accurate.

As for neck-turning (outside turning, not reaming), I think this is of greater importance than annealing, at least from a safety aspect if for no other reason - and there are others. Neck-turning is a good bit of work but has never merited a fad status like annealing.

 

[H Richard]

A good friend of mine has been working with an Australian firm that makes an electric annealing machine which can dial in exact temperatures, and they have formulas as to what temp is needed for all kinds of brass. They claim improved accuracy.

If anyone is interested, I can put you in touch with him. PM me if interested.