Case resizing lube.....

Keep it with...

Qc Pistolero said:
Maybe....but how do I explain my wife that it's gonna be used for lubricating brass cases only???Guess I'll stick with DWalt recommendation(STP)!Qc
Click to expand...

Keep it with your resizing equipment. Not in your range bag. Or next time you say, "I'm going shooting." your wife may ask sarcastically, "And WHO are going shooting WITH?"
 
Not quite sure you can "wear out" a carbide die with normal use.
The ones I have that are more than 20 even 30 years old are just fine.
It may be an illusion but they seem to be even smoother than when new.
I do "polish" them occasionally with JB compound but that mainly cleans any galled metal off them.
Nickel especially tends to rub off on the carbide if not lubed.
 
k22fan said:
Wise A,
Either there is old brass stuck to the sides of your carbide sizing ring or is not smooth enough. If the ring is clean I would call Lee expecting an O.K. to mail the die back for a free replacement. I have no doubt that Lee will replace it for free.

P.S. Is it even possible to comment on Ivan's choice of lube without being dinged?
Click to expand...

It was brand-new and clean, but it was the entire set. I no longer have to lube any .44 Mag cases, after that first set of 25.
 
I could get by with my old lube......

...but effort is GREATLY reduced for me with the Imperial wax. If what you have is doing the job for you, great. If you are having a tough time, like me, try the Imperial wax.
 
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I have read that among the other gun related benefits of using Johnson's Paste Wax is that it makes both a good case sizing lubricant and a good cast bullet lube. But I cannot speak from personal experience in such applications. I use it only for waxing both gun metal and wood.
 
I've only used either the original RCBS Case Lube or the water based Case Lube 2 since I started reloading in the 60's. Both have served me well for bottleneck cases, but I've also never done any major case reforming either. The most I've done is resize 7 MM Rem Mag to 264 Mag and 243 and 308 to 260 Remington. And that's just a neck resizing operation. As for pistol cases, I haven't used anything but carbide sizing dies since the 80's and don't need to lube them at all.
 
Goodness. it's only case lube.

Why mess with a wax type.?

One of the best is the inexpensive LEE Lube.

It is water based and can be diluted with water or rubbing alcohol. Put it in a little spray bottle, shake the heck out of it and spritz your brass. No need to even wipe it off. If you want to, a damp rag is all it takes.

And what is it? It is actually wire pulling lube. You can buy a quart or gallon at Lowes or Homers and have enough for the rest of your life.

Yes, Imperial wax works very well but it is messy and a pain to remove.

The little tube lasts a long time when diluted 50:50 or you can stretch it even further,

Lee Case Sizing Lube 2oz Tube
 
I have been using Hornady One Shot aerosol,the pump spray is terrible, successfully for a long time but am shocked by it`s ever increasing cost but for now because of my physical need to use it, it`s quick and easy for me, I will bite the bullet and keep using it.
It is nice to see the alternatives in these threads though and hear of other case lubes that reloaders like.
Jim
 
For rifle I still use Imperial Wax...except for 223. I use spray on lube for them(with Dillon Carbide Dies) and you just have to let it dry. I also use carbide dies for pistol loading BUT I also spray them with Hornady or Dillon Spray lubes. Just makes the whole process go easier especially with the Dillon progressives. One day I'll get one of the Dillon 550s and see if I can remember to turn the darn thing. Probably just load 44s on it and I'll spray lube them too
 
I've tried dozens of case lubes over several decades of reloading from petroleum jelly to imperial wax and I've concluded Hornady one shot is the easiest (spray type) and as fast as anything - however, imperial wax is the best but it's slower and messy.

I use Hornady for brass up to 223 and Imperial Wax for the 308/30-06/300 Weatherby etc. Never ever stuck a case with either lube - can't say that for a few other lubes I've tried.
 
rwsmith wrote:
I heard people say that they use Imperial Sizing Wax, so I thought I would give it a spin. I'll never be without it again.
Click to expand...

Hornady Unique, which I use, is similar. Once you work out the teachnique for applying it, anyone would be surprised how little is required.

I have sized over 1,000 rounds using Unique and I've barely broken the surface of the Unique.
 
Me Too!

DWalt said:
A single can of STP oil additive will last you a lifetime as a case lube. Some liquid soaps are said to work well, but I haven't tried them. I do use STP.
Click to expand...

I went to work parttime in a LGS in Reno, NV in 1958. I became the shop's official reloader. The shop specialized in custom rifles with the biggest seller being the wildcat forerunner to the 7 mm Rem. Mag. The Owner and Chief Gunsmith showed me the use of STP for my sizing lube and I have never looked back. I had a well worn Ford PU so I would put about 3/4s to 7/8s of a can in the crankcase and then the rest into a small container. I then put some on a pad made originally to be an ink pad. I would roll my 300 H&H cases on the pad and then dip the neck into a 35 mm film canister that had #12 birdshot with lots of white graphite. With a case lubed like that it was no effort to full length resize it thru a size die. I still do heavy resizing that way. After trimming to length, those cases could be loaded for fireforming and then wiped off with a cloth with a little alcohol. Some of those custom rifles went to the customer with 100 to 200 fire formed and loaded cartridges.

BTW, one of our customers was a Aircraft Engine Mechanic. He owned a Luscombe 8A with a small Lycoming air cooled engine. It was well worn so he used STP in the crankcase. He was returning to Reno from Fallon and was just clearing the mountain ridge when the crankcase oil drain plug vibrated out. He admitted that was his fault. He recognized the problem and throttled back until the engine was barely developing power. He made another 10 miles in a descent to the airport. The engine never did seize, but it did have to be rebuilt. He always claimed that if it weren't for his use of STP he would have had to crash land in those mountains near Virginia City. Not real appealing. ....
 
Here is a older post and reply from RCBS: It is not mine.

Take it FWIW.

"Called RCBS again yesterday, and sent them an e-mail regarding the stuck .223. Explained that out of the thousands of rifle rounds I've loaded, the ONLY stuck cases I've had have been as of very recent--when I decided to give Imperial a try.

Here is the response from RCBS--

Quote:
Hi
Return the die to us and we will remove the stuck case and replace any
damaged components. You want to avoid lube that is wax based or has any
wax products in the ingredients. 95% of the stuck cases we get back
here are due to wax based lube.

What happens is that the wax builds up inside the die and is like rubber
cement in there and the cases will get stuck every time. Your die is
under warranty and there is no problem sending it back to us. Have a
great day! "

Also here is the MSDS for Hornady Unique lube (similar to Imperial) but Imperial does not release their "secret proprietary formula"

Bottom line you can stick a case with any kind of lube if you do not use enough or incorrectly.

Think of all the minks that have died:D

Mink oil, paraffin, tallow

http://www.hornady.com/assets/files/msds/Unique_Case_Lube_MSDS.pdf
 
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Don't forget....

Rule3 said:
Here is a older post and reply from RCBS: It is not mine.

Take it FWIW.

"Called RCBS again yesterday, and sent them an e-mail regarding the stuck .223. Explained that out of the thousands of rifle rounds I've loaded, the ONLY stuck cases I've had have been as of very recent--when I decided to give Imperial a try.

Here is the response from RCBS--

Quote:
Hi
Return the die to us and we will remove the stuck case and replace any
damaged components. You want to avoid lube that is wax based or has any
wax products in the ingredients. 95% of the stuck cases we get back
here are due to wax based lube.

What happens is that the wax builds up inside the die and is like rubber
cement in there and the cases will get stuck every time. Your die is
under warranty and there is no problem sending it back to us. Have a
great day! "

Also here is the MSDS for Hornady Unique lube (similar to Imperial) but Imperial does not release their "secret proprietary formula"

Bottom line you can stick a case with any kind of lube if you do not use enough or incorrectly.

Think of all the minks that have died:D

Mink oil, paraffin, tallow

http://www.hornady.com/assets/files/msds/Unique_Case_Lube_MSDS.pdf
Click to expand...

Don't forget WHALE OIL!!!:eek::D
 
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