Cast bullets in M1 carbine update

Model5

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I had posted recently asking for information and personal experience in firing cast bullets in the m1 carbine. I figured I would update in case anyone was interested in my findings.

I made it out to the range Sunday with a test batch of 50 rounds loaded up with different charges to check function and accuracy of my rounds I was able to load up. To start off, I was using 115gr round nose lubed bullets commercially purchased. I loaded with a variety of multiple fired brass from WW headstamped to LC 52 as well as a few others. Primed with cci 400 srp and charged with W296. My powder charge started at 10% reduced from normal fmj so 15 rounds at 12.5gr, 15 at 13gr, 15 at 13.5gr and finished with 5 at full fmj charge of 14gr. When seating the bullet I did not adjust my set up from the previous session of 110gr fmj I did and the lead bullets seated shorter than the standard 1.680”‘I generally do. All the lead bullets were seated at 1.660”


I started off with a completely fresh and cleaned rifle with the bore as clean as I possibly could get it. I set up the chrono about 6 feet from the muzzle of my rifle. With the test I’mg all loads cycled the action with 100% reliability.


The 12.5gr yielded 1680-1730fps with poor accuracy
The 13gr yielded 1700-1750fps with poor accuracy
The 13.5gr yielded 1730-1823fps with improved accuracy
The 14gr yielded 1850-1880 fps with the best accuracy

The 14gr charge showed the most promise with greater accuracy than I’ve been able to achieve with standard fmj loads. The final group with the 5 hottest rounds was in the ballpark of 2.5-3”. I will continue to test with the 14gr load to see if leading becomes and issue. Upon inspection of the bore when I arrived home I noticed some fouling on the lands but clean shiny grooves. Nothing that stands out to me as being problematic. I will forego cleaning the bore before my next outing to see how the accuracy repeats with the 14gr charge and if the minor fouling I was able to see in fact effects the accuracy.

It is worth pointing out when I received my cast bullets I measured and few with a micrometer and they came out a consistent .309” diameter with a few tenths deviation. I had some loose remington 110gr fmj bullets I had left over from the last batch I loaded and for fun I measured those as well and to my surprise they came out to be .307” very surprised in that measurement. But also that explains why in my last outing when i shot a paper target at 100 yards (usually I shoot a 8” steel gong) they patterned rather than grouped. Which isn’t a big deal as long as I’m hitting the steel plate. But I chalked it up to a very dirty rifle. Anyhow I just figured I would share that experience. If anyone out there loves their carbine like me and wants to continue shooting it while we navigate these tough times of supply shortages. I’ve had my carbine for 3 years or so and have loaded for it just as long and have never loaded lead until now and the way it is looking I will continue testing. If anyone is interested I’ll update the next batch as well and let everyone know if it continues to work out or I run into issues.
 
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Model5 - I may have missed it but at what distance were you shooting for the test? I have two Carbines and have reloaded and shot only FMJ. I have some 100 grain lead that I’ve yet to work up a load for, so I’ll be following your testing with interest.
 
Model5 - I may have missed it but at what distance were you shooting for the test? I have two Carbines and have reloaded and shot only FMJ. I have some 100 grain lead that I’ve yet to work up a load for, so I’ll be following your testing with interest.

I was testing at 100 yards. With the accuracy and function tested. Now it’s just a matter of making sure it repeats and see if the all dreaded leading of the piston will happen.
 
Where did you get your 115s, it's been years but it might be time to try it again.
 
Thanks for the update. It sounds like you are on the right track for a good cast bullet load.

I don't think that I mentioned it in my response to your original post, but the US GI M1 Carbine uses a rifling twist rate of 1 in 16." Cast bullets do very well with slower than normal twist rates, so the 1 in 16" twist rate is very amenable to cast bullets and helps explain why M1 Carbines do well with cast bullets. This is particularly true with the short 110/115 grain bullets loaded in the carbine round as they do not need the 1 in 10" or 1 in 12" twist rate normaly found in 30 caliber rifles of higher performance.
 
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Your results with 296 sound consistent with my experiences. It's a cast bullet friendly powder. But likes to be loaded towards the higher end of the spectrum, assuming your bullets are made for the task.
Good stuff!!
 
I have had good results shooting cast in my carbine. Although I use Alliant 2400, 296 or H110 are also appropriate to the cartridge.

I did find that with cast bullets, fatter is better. Typical . 309 or . 310 bullets shot patterns in my gun, not groups. Since I cast my own, it was easy to change that. I found . 311 was noticably better, and in fact I even tried some unsized which ran close to . 312 and they shot great. In short, if it will chamber easily it will shoot. If you don't cast, there are commercial outfits that will custom size for you.

My bullets are plain based ie no gascheck. This seems to be a rule unique to each individual carbine. Others have said they get terrible leading and inaccuracy without a gascheck. I shoot hundreds of rounds between cleanings and I experience no leading, accuracy is great, and the gas system has nothing more than the carbon you get with an equal amount of jacketed loads. Like I said, YRMV.

Unless I missed it I didn't see what range you were shooting. I find I can equal ball at 100 yds, which is like 3 inches or so. Remember these are not match rifles, a 5 lb rifle with an 8 lb. trigger and an 18 inch sight radius (plus 55 year old eyes)has limitations!
 
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Model5,
What hardness are those 115gr bullets and do they use a gas check?

They do not use a gas check and I may be able to check the hardness on our tester at work. I’m not sure if it can be set up for Brinell. But I may be able to test it and convert from Rockwell to brinell. I’ll look further into that as I’m also curious. They are sold as “hard cast”.
 
I have had good results shooting cast in my carbine. Although I use Alliant 2400, 296 or H110 are also appropriate to the cartridge.

I did find that with cast bullets, fatter is better. Typical . 309 or . 310 bullets shot patterns in my gun, not groups. Since I cast my own, it was easy to change that. I found . 311 was noticably better, and in fact I even tried some unsized which ran close to . 312 and they shot great. In short, if it will chamber easily it will shoot. If you don't cast, there are commercial outfits that will custom size for you.

My bullets are plain based ie no gascheck. This seems to be a rule unique to each individual carbine. Others have said they get terrible leading and inaccuracy without a gascheck. I shoot hundreds of rounds between cleanings and I experience no leading, accuracy is great, and the gas system has nothing more than the carbon you get with an equal amount of jacketed loads. Like I said, YRMV.

Unless I missed it I didn't see what range you were shooting. I find I can equal ball at 100 yds, which is like 3 inches or so. Remember these are not match rifles, a 5 lb rifle with an 8 lb. trigger and an 18 inch sight radius (plus 55 year old eyes)has limitations!

The accuracy of my carbine is usually measured in being able to hit my 8” gong at 100 yards at least 49 times out of 50. As long as it will do that I am very happy. I’ve even exercised a little and walked it out to 200 and adjusted the rear sight to the 200 mark and was very pleased with how many time I made the steel bounce. Also all my testing with cast was done at 100 yards.
 
Thats really reasonable accuracy for a carbine. I said by best efforts yielded like 3 inches at 100 yards, but certainly not every effort. Remember what this gun was intended for. I doubt many of us could hit that gong 49 times with a 1911A1!
 
Uh, "...a consistent .309" diameter with a few TENTHS deviation."

I'm hoping you meant THOUSANDTHS!

Cheers!

Thousandths would be .001”
Tenths .0001”

Took a minute to wrap my head around the concept when I started trade school. It isn’t the same as what they thought in grade school.
 
Thousandths would be .001”
Tenths .0001”

Took a minute to wrap my head around the concept when I started trade school. It isn’t the same as what they thought in grade school.


OK: now, where do HUNDREDTHS fit in...?:eek:

Cheers!
 
OK: now, where do HUNDREDTHS fit in...?:eek:

Cheers!

.100 hundred thousandths
.010 ten thousandths
.001 thousandths
.0001 tenths

I don’t deal with anything past tenths place. Usually anything I have that has that tight of tolerance is +/-.0002” beyond that is just a joke far beyond the capability of any equipment we have.
 
.1 = one tenth of an inch
.01 = one one hundredth of an inch
.001 = one one thousandth of an inch
.0001 = one ten thousandth of an inch
.00001 = one hundred thousandth of an inch
 
.1 = one tenth of an inch
.01 = one one hundredth of an inch
.001 = one one thousandth of an inch
.0001 = one ten thousandth of an inch
.00001 = one hundred thousandth of an inch

That’s how you learn it in school. But in a machine shop everything is referenced based off a thousandths of an inch.
 
That’s how you learn it in school. But in a machine shop everything is referenced based off a thousandths of an inch.

Right. I understand that but it is important to remember where it fits in. It's easy to forget that .1 = .10 = .100, ect. when you constantly deal with only one value all of the time. At least for me.
 
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