CCI Primers...Great for Flinching

BCDWYO

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I've finally figured out a use for the hard-as-diamond CCI small pistol magnum primers...they are great for training me not to flinch because approximately 30-50% of my reloads using CCI primers won't fire thru most of my revolvers (specifically, any that have had any sort of trigger work). Mind you this is professional trigger work by a very reputable S&W pistolsmith. They will usually ignite with my stock S&W triggers. I assume I'm not the only one with this experience? I've heard Federal primers are softest so I'm switching to those for the times I DON'T want a flinch drill.
BCD
 
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Of course, I don't know your gunsmith; but I would say that if he can't produce a tuned revolver that is reliable with CCI primers, he is not competent -- unless he told you up-front to stick to Federals only. I would take my guns back to him and say, "Make 'em right, or refund my money."

CCI primers are among the best. In almost three decades of reloading I have never had single failure to fire with any CCI primer in any gun -- except one second-hand S&W that a bozo who called himsef a pro had done an "action job" on by shortening the mainspring tension screw.
 
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I 90% CCI standard and magnum primers and have not had issues with any of my S&W or Ruger revolvers.

Federal primers are definitely the softest and seem to be the choice for those with highly tuned revolvers.

I avoid Federal for my .38 Special loads because I have a lot of GFL/Fiocchi brass which has tight primer pockets. Federal primers won't seat without flattening, CCI's don't mind the extra pressure required to seat in a tight pocket.
 
Of the tens of thousands of CCI primers of all sizes I have used over the last 40 years, I think I have had one or two that did not fire. On close inspection I found that I had not seated the primer fully, which is the final step to sensitizing it.

Maybe that's what is going on.
 
I've never had a problem with CCI primers. Sounds like your tuned revolvers are producing some pretty light hammer strikes...
 
Bad stuff!!!

Those guns are not good for self defense, IMHO.
They just not dependable enough, at least for me.
I only use CCI and Winchester primers as they are called for by Lee in the Auto-Prime. And this is because they are "harder", and "safer" when
being seated in your hand.
To each his own.

Lee Jones(Celtgun)
Shoot and Pray Daily
 
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I had some CCI 200 ftf 17-20 years ago. No problems since. Get a new gunsmith or had him redo your triggers. I will pay shipping to take the"poor primers" off your hands. PM for details.
 
I assume I'm not the only one with this experience?

If 30-50% of your CCI's aren't firing, the issue is clearly the modifications to your revolvers. It isn't a primer issue. So switch to Federal's or have your revolvers modified so they can fire a harder primer.

My favorite primer is CCI and I have absolutely no problem with them in any of my handguns. I started uniforming my primer pockets on my bench rest shooting and once I saw how much it changed the primer pocket dimensions, I uniform all my primer pockets now. Making them a uniform depth and squaring the corner really makes primer seating a joy now.
 
Thanks for the replies fellas. Here's a few more details.. I won't call out the gunsmith by name because he is extremely reputable and has actually been recommended multiple times on this forum. He did mention on one of my meetings with him that he doesn't recommend CCI primers or Magtech factory ammo. So maybe his tuning is on the light side. I also wonder if the problem may be with my seating. I reload with a Dillon 550B and I have not been doing any sort of prep on the pockets. I always seat the primers firmly to the limit of the lever pull and I routinely visually check the rounds to see that they are flush/flat with the cartridge base. Given my system what else can or should I be doing?
 
If your revolvers won't fire with CCI primers don't buy Speer factory ammo since those are the same primers.

I agree revolvers, even revolver with trigger work done should be able to shoot any commercial primer reliably. I would have that work redone especially if any of those revolvers are used for SD or HD.
 
My diamondback sometimes will miss a CCI but none of my other guns has an issue with them. Odd since I use around 15 to 20 thousand of them a year. I wonder why my guns don't have problems with them but yours does?
 
It's not the primer. I've been reloading for over 20 years and have used nothing but CCI primers (rifle, pistol, large, small, magnum and regular) and never had an issue with them igniting.
 
Thanks for the replies fellas. Here's a few more details.. I won't call out the gunsmith by name because he is extremely reputable and has actually been recommended multiple times on this forum. He did mention on one of my meetings with him that he doesn't recommend CCI primers or Magtech factory ammo. So maybe his tuning is on the light side. I also wonder if the problem may be with my seating. I reload with a Dillon 550B and I have not been doing any sort of prep on the pockets. I always seat the primers firmly to the limit of the lever pull and I routinely visually check the rounds to see that they are flush/flat with the cartridge base. Given my system what else can or should I be doing?

I always clean the primer pockets; some folks feel that it is a waste of time, but I think it allows the anvil to seat against something (brass) that is firmer than residue.

I don't have any experience with progressive loaders. I do visually inspect seated primers and also run my finger across the base of the primed case. You would be surprised at how easy it is to detect a high one by feel (with a little practice).
 
I always seat the primers firmly to the limit of the lever pull and I routinely visually check the rounds to see that they are flush/flat with the cartridge base. Given my system what else can or should I be doing?

Typically, with most brass and most primers, primers will not be set to the bottom of the primer pocket if they are seated to only flush. This can vary with brass having shallow primer pockets, but again in general if yours are flush then they probably are not seated all the way. The legs of the primer anvil need to be in contact with the bottom of the pocket for the primer to function correctly and consistently.
 
Have you given any of the ones that didn't fire a second hit? My experience with primers that aren't adequately seated, will always fire with the second strike. The first hit serves to seat the primer fully in the pocket, the second then adequately compresses the compound to ignite it.

It is very important to fully seat primers as this compresses the mixture between the anvil and the outside of the primer. This makes it more sensitive to ignition when struck by the firing pin. A properly seated primer should be .003 to .005 below flush in a proper size pocket.
 
I agree revolvers, even revolver with trigger work done should be able to shoot any commercial primer reliably.


That depends on your version of trigger work. Stoning and polishing only, everything should light. Competition, all the previous plus various combinations of bending the mainspring and shortening the strain screw, you're pretty much limited to federals.
 
Your trigger jobs have eliminated most primers – become a loyal Federal user.

How do your guns work with factory ammo? Any reliable brands?
 
Your trigger jobs have eliminated most primers – become a loyal Federal user.

How do your guns work with factory ammo? Any reliable brands?

That (along with testing some other primer types and trying to make sure I've seated the primers past flush) is the next thing I'm going to test. Clearly if light strikes continue with other ammo or primers, the revolver in question needs to go back for some adjustments. Thanks for all the responses.
 
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