I've used many Clymer chamber reamers w/o any issues for a long time.
Especially 30-30, 303Brit, 38spcl, 45Colt and acp and 9mmLuger.
But there does seem to be a lot of bad feed-back about them on the net.
If the orig bluing is Hot Salt Blue or Carbona Blue/Charcoal Blue,,the insides of the bbl and chambers will be blued.
You can plug the bore (and chambers of a cylinder) if you really want to when Hot Salt Bluing, but it doesn't protect from anything, The process doesn't harm the metal or change spec.
Actually plugging bore and chambers can be a hazzard as the plugs may blowout during the bluing process if not secured properly and splash the 300F bluing salt soln all over you.
Carbona and Charcoal Blue are done at around 850F, so plugs of most any sort of matr'l that will seal tightly , that I know of, are out of the question.
Plus they are 'dry processes'. No liquids involved. Just heat, temper color, smoke and carbon.
Rust blued finishes never apply the rusting soln to the bore or chambers so they are usually a nice bright post bluing 'In the White' polish job when done. But some people do plug the bores anyway.
Just the way they prefer to do the work.
As long as they don't leak, the bore is protected. If not, the very long process can let corrosive soln inside for a long time only to be revealed when the job is done and plugs removed.
They can also blow out in the boiling water step of the process.
Not as nasty as the above, but still not pleasant if you're standing over the tank admiring your work..
Especially 30-30, 303Brit, 38spcl, 45Colt and acp and 9mmLuger.
But there does seem to be a lot of bad feed-back about them on the net.
If the orig bluing is Hot Salt Blue or Carbona Blue/Charcoal Blue,,the insides of the bbl and chambers will be blued.
You can plug the bore (and chambers of a cylinder) if you really want to when Hot Salt Bluing, but it doesn't protect from anything, The process doesn't harm the metal or change spec.
Actually plugging bore and chambers can be a hazzard as the plugs may blowout during the bluing process if not secured properly and splash the 300F bluing salt soln all over you.
Carbona and Charcoal Blue are done at around 850F, so plugs of most any sort of matr'l that will seal tightly , that I know of, are out of the question.
Plus they are 'dry processes'. No liquids involved. Just heat, temper color, smoke and carbon.
Rust blued finishes never apply the rusting soln to the bore or chambers so they are usually a nice bright post bluing 'In the White' polish job when done. But some people do plug the bores anyway.
Just the way they prefer to do the work.
As long as they don't leak, the bore is protected. If not, the very long process can let corrosive soln inside for a long time only to be revealed when the job is done and plugs removed.
They can also blow out in the boiling water step of the process.
Not as nasty as the above, but still not pleasant if you're standing over the tank admiring your work..
