Chamfering

[pacecars]

I was just talking to Walt Sherman about smoothing up the DA pull on my 610 and chamfering the cylinders. He said he doesn't chamfer them anymore since there is no real advantage to doing it. Do any of you agree or disagree? The only "competition" I will be shooting with the 610 will be bowling pins.

 

[ontargetagain]

You may be talking about the forcing cone not the cylinders. There is no accuracy advantage to chamfering the cylinder where you place the bullet. The forcing cone may have a slight chamfer to it and it is my understanding that some lead bullet shooter may opt for an increased forcing cone chamfer for some benefits.

From what I read about the 610 it is accurate right out of the box and you should be good to go for pin shooting.
Have fun!
Karl

 

[scooter123]

There is a distinct advantage to having the cylinder and ejector star chamfered to ease loading. Because Semi Auto ammuniitons are normally crimped with a light taper crimp that leaves a hard square edge that can "catch" on the square corners to the chambers in the cylinder. As a result loading an unchamfered cylinder can become a bit fussy when you are attempting to get all 6 rounds in the moon clip lined up closely enough to go into the cylinder. If you are shooting in a venue such as IDPA that fussiness can move you from the top 3rd of those entered into the bottom third. I would advise you locate a gunsmith who will do this and ignore those who are averse to doing a bit of actual work.

 

[one eye joe]

There is a distinct advantage to having the cylinder and ejector star chamfered to ease loading. Because Semi Auto ammuniitons are normally crimped with a light taper crimp that leaves a hard square edge that can "catch" on the square corners to the chambers in the cylinder. As a result loading an unchamfered cylinder can become a bit fussy when you are attempting to get all 6 rounds in the moon clip lined up closely enough to go into the cylinder. If you are shooting in a venue such as IDPA that fussiness can move you from the top 3rd of those entered into the bottom third. I would advise you locate a gunsmith who will do this and ignore those who are averse to doing a bit of actual work.

I TOTALLY AGREE WITH scooter123. I HAVE A 625 MODEL OF 1989, IN .45 ACP, WHICH COULD BENEFIT FROM THIS WORK………….

 

[pacecars]

Yep it is the cylinders I am talking about for ease of loading moonclips. I would not mess with the forcing cone unless absolutely necessary for accuracy. Walt knows his stuff and is the originator of the roller action for Pythons but I have to disagree on this one. I talked to Clements and he said he couldn't get to it for a couple of months and I don't want to slow him down while he is doing my G100 10mm!

 

[colt_saa]

I agree with camfering cylinder chambers for fast reloads.

All it takes is one hard corner on a 10MM Auto casing, hanging on the edge of your cylinder chamber to alter the results of a match.

There is no disadvantage to doing it, so I would do it.

That said, Walt Sherman is a master of actions. He did a roller action in a 2 1/2" Bright Stainless Colt Python for me decades ago. This revolver and his work was written up in a magazine when the snubby class of PPC shooting was just becoming popular.

Forgive this old photo. It was done 15-20 years ago with film and then the 3 1/2x5 was scanned. Today's equipment is better. In fact I will re-shoot the snubby this weekend.

Walt's action is hard to describe in words. DA is so smooth and so light (5 pounds). One of the LTs described the DA as pulling a hot knife through warm butter.

 

[pacecars]

Walt lives a few miles away from me so I will have him smooth the action and get someone else to chamfer the chambers if I cant talk him into doing it.

 

[lebomm]

CHAMBERS or CHARGE HOLES, fellas ! Chamfering the CYLINDER with the old "black powder chamfer" like the Mountain Guns has no effect on accuracy whatever.
Our revolvers have one cylinder, 5, 6, 7, or 8 chambers.
Sorry to seem picky, but we all gotta speak the same language.

Larry

 

[pacecars]

Yes I changed my wording to chambers to clarify what I meant.

 

[tomcatt51]

Might look in the Brownells' catalog. For the price of shipping your gun and having the chamfering done you can buy the tooling. It's a piloted cutter and the pilot gets changed to depending on your chambering. The process is pretty simple and doing it yourself you can cut as large (or small) a chamfer as you want.

 

[pacecars]

I don't have a drill press to do the work

 

[armorer951]

You don't need a drill press for that particular Brownells tooling. These small 22 degree Lyman hand chafers also work well when used with care and the proper lubricant.

Lyman Products Your Primary Source for Reloading Equipment

 

[tomcatt51]

I don't have a drill press to do the work

the tool is run by hand, no drill press required.

http://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-t...ering-cutter-brass-pilot-prod18298.aspx?dym=y

There are 2 cutter diameters and steel or brass pilots. You definitely want a 45 degree cutter. You can buy the cutter, handle and pilots separately. A 1/2" cutter is just big enough to cut .40 cal chambers and you can do them with the extractor installed. If you go that route you'd cut the chamfer with the extractor installed first. You're limited in how much you can cut by the extractor "arms" so after a small cut with the extractor, remove it and you can then cut a bigger chamfer on just the cylinder.

On 625 ( as an example) you leave the factories (small) cut on the extractor as is and cut a bigger chamfer with the 5/8" cutter on the just the cylinder with the extractor removeD. The 5'8" cutter will cut the ratchets if use use it with the extractor installed.

This is one of those things that sounds harder to do than it really is.

 

[Double-O-Dave]

If I'm not mistaken, aren't you only supposed to chamfer the charge holes and not the extractor star? This is what I've always been told, and observed from photos of revolvers that received cylinder charge hole chamfering by gunsmiths.

Regards,

Dave

 

[armorer951]

chamfer

I've seen extractors ruined by over-chamfering.

Apparently the Performance Center chamfers the cyls with the extractor in place. Although the video shows the tech using and intexing fixture, I was surprised he didn't plug at least one hole with a liner or casing to hold the extractor firmly centered in place while cutting.

[ame]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=13QFwS422HE&list=PLU1DXoPBtnvrzqHryD9r29t5vWLBFUH8G&index=1[/ame]

 

[Bearbait in NM]

Pace,

I do not a before and after comparison with my 625 PC which is factory chamfered, but I really like it.

I have shot a lot of other revolvers over the years with speed loaders, and my 625 is much easier to charge with 45 AR than past revolvers without the modification. My 625 with moon clips is very fast. I cannot do a side by side to say "x" amount faster, but I do think they help.

But, a lot of gain can be related to the type and shape of your bullet. Also by how rigidly your moon clips hold your rounds. My TK clips do a good job at holding my rounds. Pretty much any bullet shape is a quick fit. With the polymer clips, even fmj's take a touch of jiggling. SWC's with the polymer clips are much slower. The chamfering probably helps with these, but the combination is not one in which I try and go fast.

I would also note that your 610 is a great 10mm gun as compared to a semi-auto in that you have full case support. I do not have one to see how much the lower web of the case (overhang) might be impacted by chamfering, but it is something for which I might want to do a bit of research, beyond just the speed of chambering. And it is something for which doing yourself might require a good bit of care.

Craig

 

[tomcatt51]

If I'm not mistaken, aren't you only supposed to chamfer the charge holes and not the extractor star?

It depends...

If you have rimmed cases you leave the extractor alone so the rim has the full surface to rest on and are still limited in the amount of cylinder chamfer because you want some of the rim resting on the cylinder. Looks like the chamfers on my 14-7 are .420-.425 with the extractor still having the factory square edge.

On moonclip guns you can chamfer the extractor some but you're limited because if you cut too much you weaken the extractor "arms" and they'll break off. So I put a small chamfer on the extractor (if it didn't come with one) and a bigger chamfer on the cylinder. You don't want your chamfer to go so deep it's past the solid brass of the case head. My 625s' chamfers have a major diameter of .540-.545. The extractor just has the (slight) factory chamfer. I've seen them cut considerably bigger but never felt there was a need.

Hope this helps.

 

[Double-O-Dave]

It depends...

If you have rimmed cases you leave the extractor alone so the rim has the full surface to rest on and are still limited in the amount of cylinder chamfer because you want some of the rim resting on the cylinder. Looks like the chamfers on my 14-7 are .420-.425 with the extractor still having the factory square edge.

On moonclip guns you can chamfer the extractor some but you're limited because if you cut too much you weaken the extractor "arms" and they'll break off. So I put a small chamfer on the extractor (if it didn't come with one) and a bigger chamfer on the cylinder. You don't want your chamfer to go so deep it's past the solid brass of the case head. My 625s' chamfers have a major diameter of .540-.545. The extractor just has the (slight) factory chamfer. I've seen them cut considerably bigger but never felt there was a need.

Hope this helps.

Mystery solved! Many thanks Tomcatt51!

Regards,

Dave

 

[birdshooter]

I sent my 625 cylinder to Clark Custom to have the chambers chamfered. It wasn't very expensive and turn around was real quick.