Chance to buy a 27-3

Pastprime

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I'm going to look at a 27-3 this afternoon. I don't have to pay him today but he wants a commitment or not.

From his description on the phone, I imagine it is a mid range shooter condition. No box. 4" barrel. What he descripes as "large" grips.

Is there anything to look for that would make it special? And, is in worth around $450.00??

I know you cannot tell much from my details but I'm thinking it might make a good companion for my 19-2.

Opinions appreciated..
 
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I have a 27-3 that I purchased new in about 1984. Check the rear sight. If it is original it should match the checkering on top of the frame and barrell. They are great shooting guns as the N frame can handle a steady diet of full house magnum loads. Mine shoots 38 special a lot and the felt recoil is less than my k or L frame 38-357's. As for the price it is hard to say without seeing the piece. Basically its only worth what someone is willing to pay for it..
 
Might have lost my shirt but I told him I'd take it. Picking it up tomorrow.

It does have a problem and I'm not sure what it is. Hope it can be fixed for not too much. BTW, the checkering on the rear sight matches the rest of the checkering. Thanks for the info.

The big issue is that the cylinder does not swing out easily. The rod moved freely but the cylinder is hard to push out. There is a gap between the barrel and front of the cylinder so it's not binding there. Cylinder spins OK when it's out of the frame. The back of the frame has a rub mark that is deeper than my 19-2. I'm just hoping there is a fix for whatever the problem is. And, I gave him significantly less than $450.....
 
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I'm no expert, but it sounds like he might have replaced the forward sideplate screw, as this is the screw that rests in the slot that holds the cylinder in the frame, and it may be too long. I suggest backing off a 1/4 of a turn at the time and see if the cylinder swings out any easier. If that helps, then the screw needs a small amount of filing, a little at a time, on the distal end. The only other thing that I can think of is grit or some other abrasive that has gotten into the crane. Next oppinion?
DLB
 
Once the yoke is clear of the frame does it swing easily? If it does, it could be the end of the ejector rod has unscrewed a half a turn or so making it too long and is binding on the hootis on the bottom of the barrel.

I had a similar problem where the retaing screw was not in the slot. Backed it out half a turn, made sure the yoke was seated and screwed it back in. Worked fine.
 
Thanks for all the suggestions. Yes, the cylinder swings freely once it is clear of the frame. I will still check the retaining screw but I hope it is as simple as the ejector rod being slightly unscrewed. I'll know more tomorrow when I take it apart, clean it, and hopefully put it back together correctly.

No doubt I will have more questions and I am grateful for all the comments I receive.
 
My father has a gun identical to what you are looking at purchasing. It may not be a -2 with P&R, but I still love it and its tapered barrel. His is an excellent shooter, and I would snap one up at that price if it were me.

Now...what about pictures? :) :D
 
Pictures tomorrow hopefully. The more I read the more I am afraid more things might be wrong but, if I can get back to working, it will be worth it.

Nice signature, I am armed also..
 
Sometimes, a cylinder that is hard to swing out is a matter of somebody having put the sideplate screws into the wrong holes after taking them out. The screws on those guns were fitted. Try swapping the forward one (that holds the cylinder in) with the screw just behind it.
 
I think you are going to find a loosened ejector rod, if it was the sideplate screw it would bind throughout the motion of the cylinder. I have a 27-3 4" that someone jeweled the hammer and trigger and I think did a trigger job on. It has the nicest DA trigger of any of my N frames and the gun is a tack driver. Enjoy it, you got a great deal.
 
I agree with glenncal1. Make sure the ejector rod is tight turning it counter clockwise. Place two empty shells in the cylinder at the three and six o'clock position then hold the cylinder and turn ejector rod counterclockwise. The two empty shells in the cylinder will prevent you from bending the rod.
 
Ejector Rod

I have found that when trying to remove an ejector rod, the old trick
of using the chuck on a portable drill works well. NO ! don't plug in the drill and use it under power !
Just hand tighten the chuck on the smooth part of the rod and turn in the desired direction. This will prevent "boogering" up the rod.
Neal 39
 
And the problem was: A loose ejector rod. Screwed it in and everything is good. For once I may have not paid too much ..

It's still pretty much a shooter grade but I'm happy with it. Range time later this week. It will be interesting to see how the 27-3 shoots compared to the 19-2.

One gentleman commented on the rear sight and checkering so I included a picture of that. If anyone sees anything that does not look right, please let me know. I'm always trying to learn.

I do appreciate all the comments and suggestions. There are only a few websites that I go to now for firearms information and this is one. The willingness of knowledgeable members to help a novice is a credit to this site.
 

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Good buy--28s in that condition are bringing more than I would guess you paid for your gun.
 
Thanks for all the positive comments. At just a hair over $300 I also think it's a bargin. I have never shot a model 27 and it will be fun to see how the felt recoil is with .357 rounds. They are a little sharp in the 19 but I think the 27 will take care of that...
 
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