changing recoil spring

[piney]

I was just wondering what the benefits, if any, are gained by putting a stronger recoil spring in a pistol. I see a number of members have swapped out their 18lb for a 20lb in the sd models. Is it for less perceived recoil, or for better handling?

 

[OKFC05]

Stronger recoil springs are for shooting heavier loads.
Your empties should land 3 to 6 feet away if you have the correct recoil spring.

"Reducing recoil by changing springs" is a myth. FELT recoil is HIGHLY SUBJECTIVE and may change with either faster or slower cycling, depending on the individual. There isn't much room to play around if you want the pistol to be 100% reliable.

 

[H Richard]

The spring weight should correlate with the bullet being used. A 17 lb. is a standard in the 45 acp, and that is normally used with the 230 ball. For my bullseye load of 4.3 gr of 231 behind a 200 gr cast bullet I use a 12 lb spring, and with the 5.3 gr of WST and a 200 gr load I use a 20 lb spring. The more potent the load the heavier the spring, it keeps the slide from battering the frame. As OKFCO5 said, your empties should land 3-6 ft away.

 

[BigBill]

I tweaked my 1911a1 pistol by going up two sizes larger to a 18# recoil spring from the standard 16# recoil spring. Now when I ran the slide slowly by hand I heard the spring coiling noise as the slide moved reward. Installing a FLGR KIT solved the recoil spring binding noise. I lubed my recoil spring and FLGR with moly. I lubed the trigger reset ramp, the sear too. As well as the barrel lugs, barrel bushing.

Now my 1911a1 has less over travel, cycles faster, smoother with a straight recoil that's less than 2" it has a very fast follow up second shot.
The 1911 is now a pleasure to shoot. I also installed a disconnecter ramp too. I believe the wear I'm seeing on the used 1911 on the front frame rails is because of no Spring guide rod is used. As the recoil spring with no guide rod as the recoil spring coils it puts a side to side pressure on the slide. On the front frame rails on the 1911.

Now I went up two sizes stronger on the recoil springs on my cz 85db & my cz 82 & 83. All of them cycle faster and smoother too. Less timing, less over travel, less recoil.

I'm shooting standard wolf 45acp ball ammo and 9mm luger wolf ammo. The pistols perform awesome.

The norm seems to be is going up two sizes stronger using wolf gun springs. So far it's worked for me with no ftf' s, no ftl. No jams at all. But I do use moly for my lube.

 

[piney]

thanks for the info. I never knew about the 3-6ft rule, I'll remember that. It appears leaving well enough alone is the way to go

 

[MichiganScott]

One thing people forget when installing a heavier recoil spring to compensate for +P loads is that the slide has to return to battery after ejecting the empty case. A heavier rated spring will slam the slide forward at a greater velocity than normal. This will cause abnormal battering of different parts of the slide. Everything is a trade off because these pistols need an intrinsic balance to function properly.

 

[SMSgt]

When you mess with what works, you increase the possibility of it not working. Unless you shoot +P (in a gun not designed for +P) or low power reloads, the factory-weight recoil spring is usually adequate.

 

[BigBill]

I shoot only standard ammo. Even my reloads are low pressure. With it all lubed with moly it should be ok. We test fired 500rds of ammo through it. She's flawless. She is asleep now resting. Anyone who shoots it now shoots clover leafs with it.

Why do we shoot stout loads at paper and hammer any gun for nothing? Actually practicing with low pressure leadcast loads makes us more accurate with the jhp loads. At the end of my range secession I run six or ten rounds of my ccw load. Just to keep the feel of the hotter rounds.

 

[BigBill]

On my 1911 I purchased every how to DVD. From AGI, to WILSON COMBAT, to Jerry k shop manual and DVD.
I ordered a new spg $59 USGI barrel, IAI NM barrel bushing, FLGR KIT, and adjustable trigger. I did all the fitting. I flared the extractor, I did the disconnector ramp, polished the feed ramp, flared the chamber mouth. I fitted the barrel bushing for 100% lockup in full battery. At the cost of under $400 with the cost of the norinco 1911.

My point is by changing one thing its hard to see a big improvement.