Cheap squib rod

[RWB3]

I looked at the price of squib rods at various sites. Brownells wants $27.99!!!

Try this: toilet tank float rod. 1/4" X 8". I taped up the threaded ends just to be safe. Worked like a charm. $2.97 at Home Depot.

 

[BC38]

At 10% of the price it sounds like a winner to me.

 

[bigggbbruce]

Old bore rod extension. Got bunches in my spare junk..

 

[2hawk]

Length of 1/4" brass rod from the hardware. Get 2 or 3 foot, put in a few minutes with a hacksaw and you're all set. Here's an online source:
1/4" x 3 ft. Round Rod ? Brass

 

[Chuck24]

Wooden dowel rod

 

[Grayfox]

I'm with Chuck24. A hardwood dowel works just fine and generally costs well under a dollar.

 

[jstanfield103]

I would vote dowel rod also. The only thing I really can say about this, is I have been a reloader for less than a year. Never had to have a squib rod "YET" but figure it's coming one day.

 

[TIMETRIPPER]

I use an aluminum gutter nail that has the pointed end cut off flat. It's about 7" long and works on 32 caliber on up. Available at your local hardware store for about $12/10 pk.

John

 

[MichiganScott]

If you are planning on having squibbs, maybe you should re-examine your reloading procedures. I've loaded well over 100K rounds over the past 40 years and had exactly zero squibbs and two primers that did not pop.

 

[Rick_A]

If you are planning on having squibbs, maybe you should re-examine your reloading procedures. I've loaded well over 100K rounds over the past 40 years and had exactly zero squibbs and two primers that did not pop.

Plenty of folks with tops blown off their guns have said similar things.

It never hurts to be prepared.

I have a bullet puller I've used once or twice since I started reloading.

 

[varmint243]

Every bad round hat was ever loaded was because it was loaded on a progressive, or was that a Dillon, or maybe it was a Lee, or was it the Tightgroup or maybe the Bullseye before there was Tightgroup, or was it using magnum primers in standard loads, I forget.

I've been reloading for 50 years (I started reloading when I was one) over 750,000 rounds of ammo (don't check my math) and never made a bad round of ammo or mistake ever, or maybe my memory isn't that good anymore. In fact I can't even remember why I have that plastic hammer and brass rod in my range kit, or how the bullet pullers ended up on my reloading bench.

So do things my way and you will never make a mistake either.

 

[rbert0005]

Factory loads have been known to have a squib now and again.

I don't think it matters how many rounds have been loaded. Sometimes it just happens.

I have 2 brass rods in my bag. one for 9mm etc. and one for 45s etc.

Yes I have used them for myself on occasion, but more times for a competitor that didn't think he would ever need one.

Bob

 

[phonejack]

Let me suggest you use a bore guide also. You can cut off bottleneck rifle cases to fit any caliber

 

[flagman1776]

I had a squib that tied my gun up in a 2 man training drill. Rather an embarassment! "Low bid" Dept practice reloads... Never had a squib or other ammo problem with my loads.
Ever after that, I carried a bore rod... a piece of brass stock, with a hole drilled & split ring installed on my key ring... when I carried a revolver. Also a BUG...

 

[Shooter6br]

steel rod with brass 25 ACP end

Not my idea but works well .I had a .250 in dia steel rod. I put a brass empty 25 ACP case on the end of the rod. Made 2 lengths 26 in and 10 in(pistol length) Tap case onto rod

 

[H Richard]

I have a couple different diameter brass rods, and I glued a large (2") round ball nob which makes it much easier to wack one out. I've only needed it once for my own loads, (don't ever clean and put your Dillon powder measure together without checking the manual). But, it has been used several times by others. It is better to have one and not need it than to need one and not have it.

 

[gwpercle]

I love the way companies come out with special tools at special prices for us.
Just be creative, a lot of things can be "repurposed" to do what you need done. $28.00 for a brass rod...that's insane.
Midway just came out with a case dryer, for those who pin tumble with water,
It's a jerky maker dehydrator, marked up twice the price and labeled Case Drying Machine....yeah, right !

 

[jtcarm]

Well gosh, just pass me the hat of shame! I had more than a few squibs my first time loading on a progressive press after 30 years on a single stage. I didn't have the lever on the powder measure cylinder connected right and it came loose. I didn't notice until cranking out a couple hundred rounds and had no idea how many cases didn't charge. Since it was a 3.2 grain load, the powder level in the hopper didn't provide much of a clue.

That was way more bullets than I cared to pull, so I just shot them and tapped out the squibs with an old aluminum cleaning rod. Fortunately there were only about 25 or so and being soft lead, came out easily.

Ok, I confess, I planned it all! Interrupting a shooting session to tap out squibs is just so darn much fun, I think I'll do it again!

The brass or steel rods work just fine. I've used them for years to slug bores & chamber throats. You can just wrap the steel with electric tap to protect the bore.

 

[bananaman]

I would vote dowel rod also. The only thing I really can say about this, is I have been a reloader for less than a year. Never had to have a squib rod "YET" but figure it's coming one day.

I have been reloading for about 4 years. Load .38, 9mm, .40, 45acp, & 45Colt. NEVER to date had a SQUIB. Hope I did not jinx myself. Bob

 

[texmex]

Back in the 1970s, I was at the range with another officer and he had a squib in a model 66 2 1/2 inch. Cheap wadcutter practice loads furnished by his department. We used the highband radio antennae on the patrol car to push the bullet in far enough to get the cylinder open. That is one thing autos and revolvers have in common. A squib will usually put either one out of commission. Another reason Clint Smith says "one is none and two is one".