Frank from jersey
Member
I like Hoot's nickel revolver. The finish on mine is about done. Any ideas on where to get a go nickeling job done? Frank Jr.
Chop or Not? 1917 project revisited
- Thread starter Chef
- Start date
Some very nice examples for you to follow. The 3 1/4 - 3 1/2 inch bbls are very attractive.
Please keep us posted as your project advances, and thank you for posting.
rayb
Please keep us posted as your project advances, and thank you for posting.
rayb
PZ93C
Member
Cut it down.
Here's my Colt.
Here's my Colt.
OP
Chef
US Veteran
Hi Willy,
The cylinder dropped right in the yoke fine. The cylinder stop still needs to be tuned and I haven't checked the bore/cylinder alignment yet. I have a lot of honey do's but I will post progress as it happens. Regards, Chef
The cylinder dropped right in the yoke fine. The cylinder stop still needs to be tuned and I haven't checked the bore/cylinder alignment yet. I have a lot of honey do's but I will post progress as it happens. Regards, Chef
AJMBLAZER
Member
Subscribed.
A couple years ago a guy over on the 1911Forum posted up a pic of his customized 1917. Similar story as here, old booty fab gun smithing combined with years of neglect gave him an ooogly 2-3" .45 ACP carry piece. He had it smoothed and hard chromed with a nice dull grey finish and man oh man was it sexy...can't find the pics I saved unfortunately.
A couple years ago a guy over on the 1911Forum posted up a pic of his customized 1917. Similar story as here, old booty fab gun smithing combined with years of neglect gave him an ooogly 2-3" .45 ACP carry piece. He had it smoothed and hard chromed with a nice dull grey finish and man oh man was it sexy...can't find the pics I saved unfortunately.
gaucho1
Member
I am bumping in the hope for an update.
45Wheelgun
Member
Here is my chopped 1917:
Sebago Son
Member
45wg,
I've seen that gun before.... very distinctive.
Have you had it long? If so, there's a doppleganger floating around out there.....
Drew
1802
I've seen that gun before.... very distinctive.
Have you had it long? If so, there's a doppleganger floating around out there.....
Drew
1802
45Wheelgun
Member
I have posted this gun on the forum before, that maybe why you think you have seen it before.
I purchased the gun in 1995 at an OGCA show in Cleveland. At that time it had been chopped and completely modified to how you see it today with the exception of the engraving, stocks and finish.
The gun had almost no finish left and was badly pitted on one side. I had it engraved to cover the pitting. Jeff Flannery did the engraving and the stocks.
The cut down cylinder is my favorite part of this gun. I have seen lots of Jovino's and similar guns, but never one with the cylinder cut like this one.
Sebago Son
Member
45wg,
Nicely executed. I don't generally jump out of my socks for heavily modified guns, but in this case I'd make an exception.
Good photography I might add. Thanks for putting it up again....
Drew
Nicely executed. I don't generally jump out of my socks for heavily modified guns, but in this case I'd make an exception.
Good photography I might add. Thanks for putting it up again....
Drew
45Wheelgun
Member
Arrggg...I just got back from searching my library. I was sure I had a copy of Sixguns. I have three other books by Keith, but somehow not that one. Either that or I loaned it out and never got it back. I'll have to come across another copy, seems like an obvious oversight not to have it in the collection.
Thanks for the tip on the picture.
Dave
Thanks for the tip on the picture.
Dave
Awesome chopped 45s. I going to post a thread on gunsmithing to identify smiths for reinstalling sight on chop 45s.
Tommy F
[email protected]
Tommy F
[email protected]
I'd chop it to 3 1/4". 45wheelgunner, you have me looking at my 1946 Brazilian with Idea's forming.
DWFAN
US Veteran
Have you thought about just glass beading it for a matt finish? You may be able to hide the pitting to an extent. BTW there's a package coming your way.
DW
DW
Cowtown cop
Member
- Joined
- Mar 7, 2008
- Messages
- 12
- Reaction score
- 0
Heres pictures of two 1934 Brazilians both done in good taste IMO
1911-BILL
Member
Those are sweeeetttt...you are a lucky man cowtown
Polyphemus
Member
45wheelgun;
Where did the full lug barrel come from? Was the lug added to the cut barrel? And the ejector rod looks very modern, how is it fitted, does it unscrew clockwise or anti?
Neato gun.
Where did the full lug barrel come from? Was the lug added to the cut barrel? And the ejector rod looks very modern, how is it fitted, does it unscrew clockwise or anti?
Neato gun.
retiredswine
Member
- Joined
- Aug 3, 2006
- Messages
- 9
- Reaction score
- 0
Fellas and gals,
In the spirit of this chopped 1917 discussion,.... my 3" 19117 just went to the gun Dr. and needs a hand and cylinder star. The smithy cannot locate the parts and so far I too haven't been able to locate. Would any of Ya'all have them to sell or can direct me to someone who does? Thanks in advance.
In the spirit of this chopped 1917 discussion,.... my 3" 19117 just went to the gun Dr. and needs a hand and cylinder star. The smithy cannot locate the parts and so far I too haven't been able to locate. Would any of Ya'all have them to sell or can direct me to someone who does? Thanks in advance.
Wyatt Earp
Member
- Joined
- Jul 9, 2007
- Messages
- 996
- Reaction score
- 16
+1
45Wheelgun
Member
Not having commissioned the original work, the following is just supposition.
The thinking is that that it isn't the original barrel. Possibly a M-26 barrel cut and installed. It is a tapered barrel so it isn't a M25 barrel. Here is a close-up of the top of the barrel. The top strap checkering was part of the original modifications not part of the engraving process.
The extractor rod is the original. The "button" on the end was milled down to the diameter of the rest of the rod. Three ball detents were installed to facilitate a tight lockup.
I would love to hear differing opinions on the barrel/under-lug discussion, as the opinions expressed above are a consensus of "best guesses".
Dave
45Wheelgun
Member
Not sure if they have the exact parts you are looking for in stock, but Numrich is only source I am aware of:
Numrich Arms
Go down to the gunsmithing section and do a search on 1917s. A modern hand will fit the 1917. If you get an oversize one, the cylinder star may be OK. Obviously, I do not know if there is anything else wrong with it. Also try Jerry Rodgers at [email protected]. He has a bunch of old parts.
PackN
Member
Not trying to highjack but those chopped 1917's sure do look nice!! I have one in sight that was Nickel'ed!! Any idea on what do give for it?? I figure you guys can give me a fair value since you have them! Hope I am in order with my Dilemna!!
Thanks in Advance!
PackN
Thanks in Advance!
PackN
Chef,
Correct decision to chop! Have chopped several guns but just did my first 1937 Brazilian. I also wanted to retain the original sight. Don't be afraid to try yourself. You can always go to the gunsmith if not happy with your work. I went with 3 1/4". Get your fine toothed hacksaw blade and start out a little longer than you want so you have room to correct and square off the end of the muzzle with a file. Crowning the bore is no big deal especially on a belly gun. I used a new counter sink bit in my Mikita on very slow speed and it shoots deadly. You don't need to take off very much at all. Check for burrs. Some guys do this with an old ball type door hinge pin mounted in a power drill with fine valve grinding compound. Both work great. The outside of the crown takes more time with file and emery cloth but doesn't affect the accuracy of course. Cut the sight out of the cut off piece of barrel and use a rat tail file to concave the underside to fit the curvature of the barrel. Leave it rough to hold the silver solder. Remember with a shorter barrel, the front sight needs to be a little lower. So tape it in place and go to the range to test fire. By filing the underside of the sight base to adjust point of bullet impact, you won't have to mess up the top curvature of the sight by filing it lower. Once it shoots to point of aim, get a bottle of mapp gas $8.00 (not propane; doesn't get hot enough), tin both surfaces with silver solder using flux; barrel and underside of base. Sand both surfaces smooth and leave only a very thin layer of solder so the sight isn't too high when done. Place sight on barrel and eyeball it from every direction; the curvature filed in the underside of sight base will help align the sight correctly. If not, fine sand the solder surface until it does. Don't need to clamp to barrel, just apply heat and the two tinned surfaces will nestle right down and melt together. Check final alignment and let cool. Voila, your done. Mine hasn't shot off yet and it was the first soldered sight I'd ever done. If you don't trust yourself with soldering, just let the gunsmith do that part. You already did the hard work of cutting and fitting so he shouldn't charge you much at all! Then it will be YOUR project.
Correct decision to chop! Have chopped several guns but just did my first 1937 Brazilian. I also wanted to retain the original sight. Don't be afraid to try yourself. You can always go to the gunsmith if not happy with your work. I went with 3 1/4". Get your fine toothed hacksaw blade and start out a little longer than you want so you have room to correct and square off the end of the muzzle with a file. Crowning the bore is no big deal especially on a belly gun. I used a new counter sink bit in my Mikita on very slow speed and it shoots deadly. You don't need to take off very much at all. Check for burrs. Some guys do this with an old ball type door hinge pin mounted in a power drill with fine valve grinding compound. Both work great. The outside of the crown takes more time with file and emery cloth but doesn't affect the accuracy of course. Cut the sight out of the cut off piece of barrel and use a rat tail file to concave the underside to fit the curvature of the barrel. Leave it rough to hold the silver solder. Remember with a shorter barrel, the front sight needs to be a little lower. So tape it in place and go to the range to test fire. By filing the underside of the sight base to adjust point of bullet impact, you won't have to mess up the top curvature of the sight by filing it lower. Once it shoots to point of aim, get a bottle of mapp gas $8.00 (not propane; doesn't get hot enough), tin both surfaces with silver solder using flux; barrel and underside of base. Sand both surfaces smooth and leave only a very thin layer of solder so the sight isn't too high when done. Place sight on barrel and eyeball it from every direction; the curvature filed in the underside of sight base will help align the sight correctly. If not, fine sand the solder surface until it does. Don't need to clamp to barrel, just apply heat and the two tinned surfaces will nestle right down and melt together. Check final alignment and let cool. Voila, your done. Mine hasn't shot off yet and it was the first soldered sight I'd ever done. If you don't trust yourself with soldering, just let the gunsmith do that part. You already did the hard work of cutting and fitting so he shouldn't charge you much at all! Then it will be YOUR project.
Just got my first 1917, and it is nickeled. Absolutely tight gun, with a great nickel job. Now I want to locate a beat up 1917 to start a chop job on. Can you find them still? I have only seen the one nickel job around here (SC.)
Similar threads
