Chopped 27-2

[Cocked & Locked]

you done good

Reddog...I like that 5" conversion you have come up with, Hogues, and especially the front sight. It looks like a serious business revolver rating high in the cool factor. Those shiny semi-wadcutters would look very intimidating to some evil doer on the muzzle end of that .357.

The older I get, and the more arthritis sets in my hands and fingers, The more I like the Hogue and Pachmayr rubber grips.

I post lots of pics of my handguns with wood and stag, but when I shoot (or concealed carry them) them they usually have rubber.

Off topic, but here's an example. My 627-PC Blood Works revolver is in the safe at this moment wearing these Pachmayrs. They stay on it.

 

[no dash]

Reddog,

I sure hope you weren't standing in front of that LOADED gun taking pictures. Even though it is on the table, that is not the safest place to be!

 

[mhael]

Nice gun for a great price. I saw as long as you are happy that is all that matters!

Also Cocked & Locked very cool gun/photo

 

[Reddog]

That's a nice non-shooter!=) A 6.5" 27 is high on my list.

I have plenty of shooter grade stuff that I just have fun with, I bought a 6" 28-2 for $400 or so this past summer, found out it already was drilled and tapped, so I added a Redfield scope to it. Some people were like "why did you do that?" and I was like, once I found the holes in the topstrap, the gun instantly went into the "shooter" category so might as well have fun with it.

Stan,
Sadly, that non-shooter is a 6"! But I like it!
I discovered that the chopped 5" had been drilled and tapped for a scope before I got it. For a shooter, I didn't see that that would hurt anything, so I ignored it. When I started shooting it, I noticed that it was making a small spot on the cylinder at each firing position? Apparently the hole was catching and changing the direction of some of the smoke and lube straight down. Also, it was blowing smoke out the top, under the rear sight tension bar! I found a set screw that would fit the hole but it only went down about half way. I need to find another one to put in from the bottom or I'm afraid it will still mark the cylinder.

C&L,
I do the same thing when I want to show a nice gun! I'm getting too damned old, too, so maybe that's why I like the soft Hogue's for shooting. I do shoot mostly .38's, though.
That's sure a pretty PC 627!

Dash,
The hammer was down on an empty chamber and I was standing off to one side. Not a good idea, though. Thanks for keeping me straight!

Thanks, mhael!
My feelings, exactly!

 

[bushmaster1313]

I bet it's even more fun to shoot seeing that you had the modifications done at your request.

 

[Reddog]

Bushmaster,
You're right, it is sort of personalized that way.
Dick

 

[bronco45]

Iggy hit the nail on the head! It's the target that counts. Nice fix to a fine old N Frame. Carry it and use it with confidence and pride.

They are all shooters, ultimately. Enjoy the fruits of your labors.

 

[Reddog]

Thank you, Bronc!
Now, if I could just be 50 years younger, so I could bring my M-27 out to explore your country on foot---------!

 

[M29since14]

The purpose of shooting is hitting, and you seem to be doing OK with that arrangement. I would hang on to that long barrel, in case you want it later.

The front sight does look like the Weigand unit. Not very elegant on an S&W, but it's getting the job done for you.

 

[Reddog]

Front sight

M29,
I'm sure you're right, several people have mentioned that it doesn't look right. Look at the pic, the top is S&W, the bottom Wiegand or? The difference seems to me to be mainly in the size of the base and the screw to hold it on. Even so, cheap is as cheap does! $140 to cut off the barrel, furnish the sight and install it. I think the factory sight was quite a bit more than that. It's a good shooter that will last much longer than I, my son and probably my 30 year old grandson will. I think I'll keep it!
I want you guys to all know that I really appreciate your comments! It's what makes something like this fun!
Dick

 

[Reddog]

I've ran into another snag on this gun. When I received the bulged barrel someone had removed the plunger pin that the front end of the extractor rod rides on. I took it back to the local smith and had him install one. Now, the clyinder is very hard to open? Any ideas?
Dick

 

[M29since14]

The front bolt likely needs to be fitted. It may be a touch long, or need an angle touched up, or both. If the gun wasn't hard to open before the installation of the bolt, it is either the bolt or the length of the ejector rod and center pin may have to be adjusted to suit the different barrel. Either of these fixes are a simple matter for the gunsmith if he knows his way around an S&W.

I'm surprised he didn't check the function of the gun before he gave it back to you...

 

[crsides]

I like it the way it is - except for the cylinder latch thing.

The front sight looks ok and I shoot the patridge sight much better than a ramp. I hated the hogue look ... until I traded into a set. Now they look better cause they work great. Have a set on my mod 58 that is cosmetically challenged.


Charlie

 

[Reddog]

M29,
I did take it back to him, and he seems to think there might be a twist in the frame. Like maybe someone may have used a hammer handle to remove the frame from the barrel?

 

[Tom K]

Possibly this young man used a Patridge replacement sight because that is what was on the original barrel? It doesn't bother me much because, as I said, it's a shooter. The Hogues are there by my choice. I understand that you don't like them but I guess that doesn't bother me much either. A job making negative comments? Why?
Dick

Every enthusiast site needs a resident curmudgeon or two for reality checks, deflating egos, and to say what everyone else is thinking but is too polite to say. SaxonPig nearly always states that what he is writing is simply his opinion - you can take it or leave it, but somehow it usually comes across as a challenge. I sometimes take a perverse pleasure in reading SaxonPig's comments and getting riled up at something I have no stake in.

I personally like the look of a Patridge blade on a short barrel. I know it doesn't make practical sense - short barrels are supposed to be holster sidearms, and a flat blade is more snag-prone. However I'm talking about look, not practice. And as you said, it's a shooter and a Patridge blade is superior to a ramp for that purpose. (Or is that Partridge? )

As for the grips, I'm not a fan of finger grooves for the same reason as SP. If they fit, great, but if they don't (and most don't for me) then they are just awful. And in my younger days, first thing I did with a new gun was take off the stocks and put on a set of Pachmayers. Nowadays I usually go the opposite way, although I rarely put on factory S&W stocks. While S&W factory grips are usually good for looks, virtually none of them feel good in my hand.

All the above is just my opinion, of course.

 

[M29since14]

M29,
I did take it back to him, and he seems to think there might be a twist in the frame. Like maybe someone may have used a hammer handle to remove the frame from the barrel?

That's a little scary. But if you have ever seen an S&W armorer whacking away on a revolver with a babbit hammer, that can be a little exciting too.

I would hope, whatever the case may be, a good revolver-smith could straighten it out. That is too nice of a gun to bite the dust. Let us know how this turns out.

 

[Reddog]

He advised me that one fix would be to remove the front bolt. I shot it that way the first month while he ordered the parts to replace it. I guess that in the old days they didn't have that front support, anyway? Maybe as a last resort?

 

[Nightowl]

Check the center pin with the cylinder open and using a flat piece of steel or something solid to push the center pin in until it is flat against the steel part that holds the pin. Then see if the end of the center pin is flush with the extractor rod. If it is not then stone until the extractor rod is shortened flush. Then fit the locking bolt. Also, is the extractor rod centered up with the locking bolt? How about some pictures?

I have not worked with a sprung frame, but I would think that the sights would not center horizontally and that the you would be able to see the barrel woulde not square up with the frame. And the extractor rod would not center up with the bolt. With the cylinder in place, is there any increase in friction while rotating the cylinder in lockup? There are lots of things to check before decreeing that the frame is sprung.

 

[Reddog]

Richard,
The center pin is about 1/16" over long. I'll try to get some pics up, tomorrow.
Dick

 

[Reddog]

Pictures

Excuse the dirty gun!

 

[Nightowl]

Excuse the dirty gun!

Well, it's not a short center pin! The way the extractor rod sits in the barrel lug, it is apparant that something is amiss. I can't tell from the pictures if the barrel is straight in the frame. You may have to send that one home to see if Smith can diagnose and fix.

 

[Reddog]

Which picture did you determine that from? In the third, the cylinder is not closed. It's closed in the second.
About what would that trip back to Smith and Wesson cost?

 

[Yonder]

Love my 5" 27. Used to carry it every day in the cop shop. Have a scope mounted on it now.

 

[Reddog]

Well, it's not a short center pin! The way the extractor rod sits in the barrel lug, it is apparant that something is amiss. I can't tell from the pictures if the barrel is straight in the frame. You may have to send that one home to see if Smith can diagnose and fix.

Richard,
It's on the way to Smith, now. I'll let you know what I find out.
Dick

 

[Reddog]

I'm supposed to hear from S&W, tomorrow, about the charges!

 

[jimmyj]

I like it. You did well!

 

[Reddog]

Thank you, Jim!

 

[sw44spl]

very cool looking, great save.

 

[Reddog]

Thank you, 44!
Hoping to hear from the factory, soon!
Dick

 

[99savage308]

Loooooooooooooks Great. Enjoy the thang.