Chopped 27-2

I've ran into another snag on this gun. When I received the bulged barrel someone had removed the plunger pin that the front end of the extractor rod rides on. I took it back to the local smith and had him install one. Now, the clyinder is very hard to open? Any ideas?
Dick
 
The front bolt likely needs to be fitted. It may be a touch long, or need an angle touched up, or both. If the gun wasn't hard to open before the installation of the bolt, it is either the bolt or the length of the ejector rod and center pin may have to be adjusted to suit the different barrel. Either of these fixes are a simple matter for the gunsmith if he knows his way around an S&W. :)

I'm surprised he didn't check the function of the gun before he gave it back to you... :confused:
 
I like it the way it is - except for the cylinder latch thing.

The front sight looks ok and I shoot the patridge sight much better than a ramp. I hated the hogue look ... until I traded into a set. Now they look better cause they work great. Have a set on my mod 58 that is cosmetically challenged.


Charlie
 
M29,
I did take it back to him, and he seems to think there might be a twist in the frame. Like maybe someone may have used a hammer handle to remove the frame from the barrel?
 
Possibly this young man used a Patridge replacement sight because that is what was on the original barrel? It doesn't bother me much because, as I said, it's a shooter. The Hogues are there by my choice. I understand that you don't like them but I guess that doesn't bother me much either. A job making negative comments? Why?
Dick

Every enthusiast site needs a resident curmudgeon or two for reality checks, deflating egos, and to say what everyone else is thinking but is too polite to say. SaxonPig nearly always states that what he is writing is simply his opinion - you can take it or leave it, but somehow it usually comes across as a challenge. I sometimes take a perverse pleasure in reading SaxonPig's comments and getting riled up at something I have no stake in.

I personally like the look of a Patridge blade on a short barrel. I know it doesn't make practical sense - short barrels are supposed to be holster sidearms, and a flat blade is more snag-prone. However I'm talking about look, not practice. And as you said, it's a shooter and a Patridge blade is superior to a ramp for that purpose. (Or is that Partridge? ;))

As for the grips, I'm not a fan of finger grooves for the same reason as SP. If they fit, great, but if they don't (and most don't for me) then they are just awful. And in my younger days, first thing I did with a new gun was take off the stocks and put on a set of Pachmayers. Nowadays I usually go the opposite way, although I rarely put on factory S&W stocks. While S&W factory grips are usually good for looks, virtually none of them feel good in my hand.

All the above is just my opinion, of course. :)
 
M29,
I did take it back to him, and he seems to think there might be a twist in the frame. Like maybe someone may have used a hammer handle to remove the frame from the barrel?

That's a little scary. But if you have ever seen an S&W armorer whacking away on a revolver with a babbit hammer, that can be a little exciting too. :D

I would hope, whatever the case may be, a good revolver-smith could straighten it out. That is too nice of a gun to bite the dust. Let us know how this turns out.
 
He advised me that one fix would be to remove the front bolt. I shot it that way the first month while he ordered the parts to replace it. I guess that in the old days they didn't have that front support, anyway? Maybe as a last resort?
 
Check the center pin with the cylinder open and using a flat piece of steel or something solid to push the center pin in until it is flat against the steel part that holds the pin. Then see if the end of the center pin is flush with the extractor rod. If it is not then stone until the extractor rod is shortened flush. Then fit the locking bolt. Also, is the extractor rod centered up with the locking bolt? How about some pictures?

I have not worked with a sprung frame, but I would think that the sights would not center horizontally and that the you would be able to see the barrel woulde not square up with the frame. And the extractor rod would not center up with the bolt. With the cylinder in place, is there any increase in friction while rotating the cylinder in lockup? There are lots of things to check before decreeing that the frame is sprung.
 
Pictures

Excuse the dirty gun!
 

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Excuse the dirty gun!

Well, it's not a short center pin! The way the extractor rod sits in the barrel lug, it is apparant that something is amiss. I can't tell from the pictures if the barrel is straight in the frame. You may have to send that one home to see if Smith can diagnose and fix. :confused:
 
Which picture did you determine that from? In the third, the cylinder is not closed. It's closed in the second.
About what would that trip back to Smith and Wesson cost?
 
Love my 5" 27. Used to carry it every day in the cop shop. Have a scope mounted on it now.
 
Well, it's not a short center pin! The way the extractor rod sits in the barrel lug, it is apparant that something is amiss. I can't tell from the pictures if the barrel is straight in the frame. You may have to send that one home to see if Smith can diagnose and fix. :confused:

Richard,
It's on the way to Smith, now. I'll let you know what I find out.
Dick
 
Thank you, 44!
Hoping to hear from the factory, soon!
Dick
 

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