I started with a Lee Loader in 1971, pounding out .32 Winchester Special cartridges for my Model 94 Winchester carbine.
The Lee Loader remains the most inexpensive setup to produce quality ammunition.
However, it is very slow. Figure it taking at least 90 minutes to do one box of 50 cartridges, perhaps two hours. It all depends on how organized and accustomed you become to the steps.
Each case has to be driven into the sizing die by hand. Though you can use a hardwood handle, I prefer a nylon or plastic-faced hammer because it has some heft to it and will drive in cases faster.
Then, using a rod, the case has to be tapped out of the sizing die from the other end.
Next, the fired primer is tapped out, the primer pocket cleaned with a quick twist of a Lee primer pocket cleaner or close-fitting screwdriver.
The case is checked for length, or placed in the Lee Case Trimmer to ensure it's not overly long. Cases can lengthen forward after repeated firing, though the .38 Special and .45 Auto are among the least troublesome in this regard. The 9mm will stretch after a few firings because it operates at higher pressure.
If the case is too long, it is trimmed back and then chamfered to remove burrs at the case's mouth.
Next, a flaring tool bells the case mouth open slightly, so a bullet may be seated without shaving it or damaging the case.
A fresh primer is then tapped (carefully) into place so it's seated flush or, preferably, slightly below the level of the cartridge case.
At this point, your case is sized, at or below maximum length, primed and belled.
Next comes adding the correct powder charge. Lee Loaders come with a powder dipper, and a list of suitable gunpowders that the dipper will throw in the proper amount.
Once the proper gunpowder is added, bullet seating is next.
The bullet is started in the case and the case with loose bullet is returned to the die.
A close-fitting plunger is returned to the die, and gently tapped to seat the bullet farther into the case.
This is a critical step in the operation because the bullet must be seated to the right depth.
The proper seating depth, often listed as the Overall Cartridge Length (OAL) is supplied by reloading books and manufacturers.
In the case of bullets made for revolvers, it can often be determined by seating the bullet to the small annular ring around a jacketed bullet, called the cannelure or, in the case of lead bullets, to an indented ring around the bullet called the crimping groove.
Once the bullet is seated to the proper depth in the case, the entire cartridge is turned over and placed in the crimping section of the die. A metal protective cup (used earlier in depriming) is placed over the case and the case is tapped into the crimping die.
This rolls the edge of the case over and into the cannellure or crimping groove, securing the bullet to the case and preventing its movement.
Crimping is done with revolver cartridges, such as the .38 Special.
Semi-auto cartridges such as the 9mm and .45 ACP do not have their case mouth crimped into the bullet. Instead, the die is designed to size the case down well below the diameter of the bullet. The bullet is held in place solely with this tension.
As you can see, there are a lot of steps. The same steps are done in a bench-mounted reloading press but are done far faster.
With the Lee Loader, it's best to do all the steps at once to the entire box or two of cartridges. For example, begin by depriming all the cases you plan to reload, then size all of them at once. This will increase production.
It will also be safer. If you charge the cases en masse with powder, with a penlight you can look down all the cases to see whether you may have accidentally double-charged one case.
In addition to a Lee Loader specific to each caliber, you'll need:
1. A loading block, to keep the cases upright and from tipping over. I like the plastic loading block made by Hornady, but MTM makes a good one too. Yes, you can bore shallow drillholes in a scrap of wood to hold the cases upright during the stages, but you'll have to make a different block for each caliber.
The Hornady and MTM blocks are made to accommodate a variety of calibers.
2. A Lee Case Trimmer.
The cutter and lock stud is made for all calibers and sold together. You'll only need one. This is about $5. Also buy the cutter with the wooden ball; it's easier to grip.
The case length gauge and shellholder are sold together, but are packed specific to the caliber. You'll need three: 9mm, .38 Special and .45 ACP. Cost is about $6 apiece.
3. A Lee chamfer tool. Cost is about $3.
4. Lee Reloading Manual, "Modern Reloading" by Richard Lee. Made by the same people who make Lee equipment, it will lead you easily through each step and offers a wealth of information.
5. Case sizing lubricant. Also made by Lee.
6. Nylon or plastic faced hammer. Black rubber hammers are too soft to drive in a case quickly, so go with nylon or hard plastic.
7. Primers. No need to buy Magnum primers for any of these cartridges. You'll need both Small Pistol (.38 and 9mm) and Large Pistol (.45 ACP).
7a. If you can afford it, buy the Lee Auto Prime tool and appropriate shellholders for 9mm, .38 and .45 ACP. This tool holds 100 primers in a hopper and makes priming much faster and surer because thumb-pressure seats the primer, not gentle taps from a hammer.
Total cost for the Lee Auto Prime and three shellholders will be about $20, perhaps a little more.
8. Gunpowder. It's best to read the manual and decide which powder you need. However, all three calibers are well served by Winchester 231, Bullseye, Unique, Titegroup, etc.
9. Bullets. For the autoloaders, you'll find it easiest to start with full metal jacketed bullets. Plated bullets, such as those made by Berry's, offer slightly reduced price over the more traditional jacketed bullets.
For the 9mm, choose 115 or 124 gr. bullets. For the .45 ACP, choose 230 gr. roundnosed bullets.
Some autoloaders do not feed lead, hollowpoint or softpoint bullets well so it's best to start with the more traditional bullets that you know will work.
For the .38, lead bullets will work fine. The most versatile lead bullet for the .38 is the semi wadcutter of 150 to 160 grains.
This is a popular bullet, more so than the 148 grain wadcutter, so you may find a much better price on the 148 gr. wadcutter.
If the savings is significant, go with the 148 gr. wadcutter. These are barrel-shaped bullets made for target shooting out to 50 yards; they'll serve you well for practice.
10. Reloading labels. A peel-off white label will work fine but ensure that you finish each loaded box by noting on the label: date, caliber, bullet weight and type, powder type and weight, whether this is the first or 10th loading of these cartridges and any other information you deem important.
Also, don't mix cases after firing them. Return them to the same box from whence they came.
This way, if you begin to notice that some cases are wearing out and splitting, you'll know to throw away the entire box.
You'll also want a means to clean cases after firing. A soft rag damp with lighter fluid will remove grit and smoke residue but a vibratory case cleaner is the easiest, best way.
Ensure all cases are clean and free of grit and residue before you size them, or you may damage the die.
Avoid brass cleaners like Brasso, that contain ammonia and fine grit. They can create pretty cases but the ammonia and fine grit can accelerate damage to the case.
I hope the above helps you. Don't hesitate to return and ask more questions.
Not one of us was born with this knowledge, we all had to learn it too.
