Classic model finish durability

nicky4968

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I have read Hoppe's has a bad effect on the finishes of new Smith & Wesson pistols.

I am contemplating a Classic Model 27 4", blue.

Is Hoppe's safe to use on this pistol?
 
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I read that thread too and double checked my manual for my 2018 Model 27. On page 33 it reads as folllows: "Ammoniated solvents or other strong alkaline solvents should not be used on any Smith & Wesson firearm."
I've only ever used CLP and Hornady One Shot; I prefer One Shot mostly for its lead cleaning and lubricating ability.
 
Many will say they've used Hoppe's since they were knee high to a grasshopper with zero issues. I agree with Herky Bird and just use CLP and or One Shot. Guns are blued for protection from rust and have the added benefit of looking Dirty... Harry... Heh heh...
 
The new finishes are less durable - and I would ask S&W if Hoppes can be used on the new ones.

My suggestion would be to consider a vintage model in great condition which are (IMHO) far superior. Hoppes is A-OK on the vintage models. :)
 
Or follow gunblue490's (youtube) recommendation - mineral spirits as a cleaner and mineral oil as a lubricant.
Tried his procedures and works great.
 
Try some M Pro 7 products. Non ammonia solvent and really knocks the powder residue out. Been using it several years now with good results

JMHO
 
I've got a new 442. The finish really does kind of suck - in that the "blue" scratches off easily. That said, I didn't know that good old #9 was bad for it, and have been using it since I got the gun.

It hasn't hurt mine in the least.
 
I'm an M-Pro 7 convert also. Their gun cleaner is one of the few things I've found that will get the carbon rings off of the cylinder face. Follow up the cleaner with a wipe down with their CLP and you're in good shape. I have been using it on blue without any issues. One thing you want to stay away from on your blue guns for sure is the lead wipe away cloths. They will take the blue off faster than sand paper.
 
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