Classic revolver storage

TSWisla

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Hello all. I recently purchased a few classic revolvers that I want to preserve. What is everyone doing to keep their revolvers looking perfect for the next generation? I have been reading good and bad things about socks (some people say nothing should be touching the finish). At the same time, if you purchase a rack, something is touching the revolver anyway. Additionally, what is out there that will hold a 8 3/8" revolver?! I am adding a goldenrod, but what else do I need to do? Any advice would be greatly appreciated. Thank you.
 
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I have several 1911s that I will never fire. Knowing this, I disassembled them, cleaned them thoroughly, and coated them, inside and out, with Rust Inhibiting Grease (RIG). They live inside a safe with two Goldenrods running, resting in plastic racks.

Be sure to place the grease on every part, every component of your revolvers (except wooden stocks). And be sure to write down what you did and when you did it, so your posterity won't be wondering what on earth you did to that gun... :)


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This is a real can of worms. You could get dozens of opinions on what to do, or not to do.

All my stuff is in their original cases, in the safe, with some sort of moisture mitigation. I even have guns that came in plastic bags from the factory, still in bags in their cases. IE Kimber and Rugers.

The biggest things you want to do is...
1. Never put a gun away dirty.
2. Never handle a gun and put it away without wiping it down.
3. Moisture mitigation.
4. Good quality gun products that are NOT biodegradable.

I use Birchwood Casey Barricade on everything, especially under grips..
I have also never had a gun rust under my care, not even a Kimber carbon steel barrel.
 
All of my un- fired guns are heavely coated with Remington oil. Kept in zero Halliburton aluminum cases. Then kept in my gun safe.The Rem oil does not gum up at all and is still the best for long term storage ( 5-6 years ) But the foam needs to be replaced every 3 years so it does not deteriorate from the Oil.I have been doing this for almost forty years and all the guns look like the day I bought them.
 
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RIG has given the best results for many years...even though some of my stuff is in a non-climate controlled area. RIG may dry out after years and require a thorough cleaning, but the gun will still be in perfect shape.
 
I don't take any special actions other than not leaving them in their original packaging; ok, maybe a few exceptions to that. Maybe clean them after shooting, maybe not, but usually wipe them down before putting them away. No "goldenrod" or other moisture mitigation. They're stored in soft cases with as many on a safe shelf as I can put in. Some here will likely be shocked with the lack of "special care" but I've been buying and shooting S&Ws since the '70s, still have most of them and they look as good as they did when I bought them; including the first 27-2 from 1974. Shoot 'em, wipe 'em down, clean occasionally, put 'em away. They'll be fine.

Jeff
SWCA #1457
 
RIG. AFAIK, most oils and greases will cause foam to rot. AFAIK, most porous substances will hold moisture against the steel. Therefore, I insert my RIGged guns into plastic bags, or S&W original vapor paper.

I did this for two or three years in a storage shelter in Norfolk VA and had no rust whatsoever.

Of course, the RIG is for steel. Won't hurt aluminum, might hurt wood, at least in any significant quantity.
 
Many years ago an old bullseye shooter showed how he protected his guns. He took a Chamois, about 18" sq, and softened, and embedded RIG in it by one of the small jars completely in the Chamois and working it in. He used that to wipe down any of his guns after handling and had used it for over 25 years. The guns did need to be wiped off before use as they did have a greasy feel.
 
I have two commemorative S&W stainless Model 66 revolvers that I bought new about forty years ago. They're the only guns I own that I don't shoot. They remain in the presentation cases they came in and I store them in a gun safe. Every three to five years (or when I think about), I wipe these guns down with a lightly oiled soft cloth. They look no different now than they did when I got them.

Granted, there is an advantage here with stainless, but blued guns should require no fussy and fastidious treatment, just a bit of good sense and a lightly oiled cloth. In a damp environment, use the cloth more often as need dictates.
 
For almost 50 years I keep them wiped down with a silicone cloth and lay them naked on a shelf lined with acid free paper. Lately have been using Ren Wax. No cases, socks, boxes, etc. This way I can see and fondle at will. Never, ever any problems.
If it's buried in grease, aluminum case with foam, or anything it takes work to access, I don't need the gun.
 
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Even though I shoot everything I own, there are a couple that I ignore sometimes for 5 years or more. I found one that was absolutely frozen (i.e. action immobile) after sitting several years. I disassembled it (carefully) and cleaned it thoroughly; and it was fine. The point here is don't be surprised if that happens, unless to take them apart and clean their innards before storing (in my opinion). No other advice to offer since I don't keep guns for the next generation (I'm afraid that they will probably throw them out or sell them for next to nothing); so I just shoot'em, clean them and put them back in the safe with a goldenrod, an annual wipe-down and a light cleaning. Then, I don't care what happens to them once I can't enjoy them anymore. Another good 'trick' is my personal minimalist life strategy: I don't own so much stuff that I can't clean it annually :-))))
IMHO,
J.
 
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