Clean burning powder for .45 acp/9 mm

Thanks for the responses. I do shoot "cheap" and therefore load mostly hardened lead bullets, so those suggesting my bullets are the biggest culprit are probably correct.
Being pretty new to reloading - only for about a year now - I was "throwing out" my powders to see if perhaps I was using something viewed as exceptionally dirty. Also, as these have been the only two powder I have used, looking for some suggestions for changing.
I do tend to load at the lower to mid-level for my semi-auto loads. With the lee disks you seem to be restricted a lot - bought an adjustable charge bar recently, but have not read up much on how it works, only that it apparently gives me a little bit more control over my loads.

Well, there ya go:)

If you were to shoot jacketed bullets (not saying you should) with the same powders you would see (or not see) a big difference. The lube tends to hold onto all the carbon and "stuff". I use HP 38/W 231 for pretty much any and all calibers and bullets. It works well. I see no reason to change.
 
I use Bullseye and Universal Clays both meter great with the Lee Pro Auto Disk. I think good metering powders is high on my list. I just reload for 9mm,38/357 45 acp and 45 Colt and have all my loads covered with these two powders. I'm thinking of trying a slower powder for the 45 Colt and 357 but haven't decided what to use just yet. But I know what ever I try it will have to meter well.;)
 
I use Bullseye and Universal Clays both meter great with the Lee Pro Auto Disk. I think good metering powders is high on my list. I just reload for 9mm,38/357 45 acp and 45 Colt and have all my loads covered with these two powders. I'm thinking of trying a slower powder for the 45 Colt and 357 but haven't decided what to use just yet. But I know what ever I try it will have to meter well.;)

HP 38 will do it all. Perhaps not full house 357 Mags but good enough for comfortable shooting works very well in 45 Colt. 2400 works well for 357 Mag and meters well.
 
I use hodgdon clays for 9mm,9mm Federal,40,38 special,44 special, reduced loads in 44 mag, 45 acp and 12 ga. burns good n clean even with lead bullets. The guys at the indoor range were happy when I switched from titegroup for sure.
 
WSF usually works well in 9mm and 40S&W because both operate at relatively higher pressures. It meters great and is fairly economical to use. I also like it in 45ACP, the old "one powder" approach, and get some of my best accuracy from it. I find that it is at its best at max listed loads, however. WST may be better at lower level loads.

WSF also seems to work pretty well with cast bullets, but no cast bullet load will shoot particularly "clean" with any powder due to the nature of the bullet/lube.
^^THIS^^ WSF is really quite "clean" as to carbon deposits. It doesn't do well w/ bunnyfart loads, so if you want light loads, go faster. WST is a really great choice for any 45acp std pressure load, any bullet wt or type. In 9mm, you can't get to full power loads w/ WST & reasonable pressures, but pretty close & for 50fps less vel, it's also a great performer w/ any bullet wt or type.
W231/HP38 falls way short for the magnums or 45colt, you are better off w/ the WSF or sim medium burner IMO. For full power loads in the magnums or heavy 45colt, 2400 works great.
 
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You aren't going to find any powders cleaner than WSF or HP-38/W231 so you just might have to change bullets.

I was about to suggest AA#5 until I saw you post on using inexpensive lead bullets. Even though i have never found HP-38 to be dirty I was going to suggest AA#5 because it's also very clean.
 
Clays is clean and safe. Titegroup is clean and great for double-charges.
 
I think a clean burning powder in reloading is a myth. Light loads are the worst with mid to max better. The store bought stuff shoots cleaner because most use some type of blended powders or a type not offered to the public for reloading.

Great advice. Any powder that is loaded near max will help the brass to seal in the chamber and minimize the grit that gets in the action.
 
I think a clean burning powder in reloading is a myth. Light loads are the worst with mid to max better. The store bought stuff shoots cleaner because most use some type of blended powders or a type not offered to the public for reloading.

Just take a few rags and some Handi-Wipes and have fun. If you're shooting lead bullets the lube could also be part of the problem. I think it's just the price you pay for getting to shoot cheaper bullets.
Although I think too much emphasis is put on clean burning powders, you couldn't be more wrong. There are some powders out there that really burn very cleanly. I've tried e3 in light target .45 ACP rounds. It is incredibly clean. American Select is very clean.
 
I agree with most of the posts concerning the use of hardcast lead as being the primary cause of crud in my my own guns. As for powders, I like Titegroup because it's not position sensitive and gives me a good mid-range load. Yes, you have to be careful with any low bulk powder to not double charge! For my warmer 9mm and .45 loads, I like AA#7. No holy grail here, just weighing in on what I like. Oh yea....welcome to and enjoy the wonderful world of reloading!
 
In selecting a "clean" powder, one thing that you should keep in mind besides operating pressure is load density, particularly with autoloading pistol cartridges. Choosing a powder that fills the case to the base of the bullet is desireable for several reasons, not the least of which is that it prevents overcharges but more importantly helps check bullet setback in case of a poor crimp.

I first started considering this when loading for 357 Sig, a somewhat more difficult auto pistol cartridge to load for. It has a short neck, the bullets often are just beginning their ogive curve at the point where crimping for max OAL is reached, and the bottleneck itself makes proper crimp setting difficult unless done in a separate step. Having a case nearly full of powder helps to prevent setback during crimping, and may aid in lessening it as the bullet is driven into the feed ramp.

I think most of the problems I have seen with 45ACP, for example, came with the use of low load density powders coupled with a poor crimp. If setback occurs, you could go high order. In the 357 Sig, it can become a significant issue quickly. So in trying to get the "cleanest" burn, be cautious against selecting a low load density fast powder that leaves a lot of air in the case. It is better to pick a powder that burns better at its preferred or max operating pressure but provides a full case than one which is low loading density, imho.

Of course, with cast bullets, some powders burn "hotter" or have progressive burning characteristics that are slower to reach max pressures to give good obturation and seal, thus cause volatilization of the bullet base and lead redeposition in the throat or first part of the bore. Thus, bad leading. That is one of the reasons you will see that I rarely use or advocate Unique any longer. I had far more problems getting it to do what I wanted without a lot of leading, especially with variable hardness commercial cast bullets, than other powders that burned "cleaner".
 
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Bullseye, unique and 2400 loads everything I reload. They are the only powders I use in pistol rounds.
 
AA Nitro 100 works great in the 45acp with 3.8gr under a 200gr. LSW bullet. Very accurate and clean burning. Just DO NOT try and use it in the 9mm because it is way too energetic with the small 9mm case capacity. I know from experience this to be true. My P95DC and I survived is all I will say. Thanks Ruger for making a super strong pistol.
 
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I use titegroup and good basic loading techniques such as powdering one shell casing at a time and moving cases from one tray to another. I've had no over charges and have loaded and shot thousands of 45's. It burns as clean as any powder I have tried. And when I am loading I pay strict attention to detail no distractions no TV no kids and I have yelled at the dog when he had to go out. Its about saftey and its my saftey so its I take it very serious.
 
As my collection of .45s has grown it has become evident to me that reloading is in my future... that's my crystal ball forecast and l'm sticking to it! It's been educational to read through this thread! Once again forum members thoughtfully sharing their expertise have opened Pandora's box. Thanks gentlemen!
 
Bullseye, unique and 2400 loads everything I reload. They are the only powders I use in pistol rounds.

+1!
Bullseye is terrific for both 45ACP and 9mm. The dirt that it does generate is easy to clean off both brass and gun. I used to use 231, but found that it left a gritty deposit that was difficult to get rid of.
Unique works well in the 45ACP too. I have never tried it in 9mm.
 
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