I just bought a new 317 and am already having trouble cleaning it after about 200 rounds. There is a carbon buildup on the frame directly above the rear of the barrel that is defying my efforts. Does anyone know to clean this area without damaging the frame finish?
Cleaning a 317
- Thread starter Dziadzi#1
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cant say I've shot my 317 that much but, I use solvent and a brass brush...on leading buildup, i'll use a fired .243 brass that I have flattened the mouth and put an edge on....carefully, not really sure about that finish though
Assuming your gun is stainless steel, and I believe it is, I use a product called "Blue Magic" to clean the frame parts, forcing cone, and the front of the cylinder. Takes off lead and, if you do it right, your gun looks better than new. Amazon sells it. (Never use this product on a blue gun; it will remove the bluing.)
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3 in 317 stands for aluminum! 6 is stainless.
The clear coat finish on these is fairly fragile. I wouldn’t use a lead-away cloth, a bronze brush or even a solvent like Hoppe’s on the exterior. You can use Hoppe’s in the bore and chambers. I stick with CLP and a nylon brush on the finish.
I wouldn’t worry too much about removing all the fouling build-up over the barrel. You best bet is to soak the area with CLP and let it work for a while. You might try scraping the build-up with the edge of an old credit card, but don’t try to make it look new. You’ll do more harm than good.
I’ve owned these two for a long time. I let new shooters use my 3” enough that it had to go back to the factory to have the endshake corrected. That was after a lot of bricks of .22’s. They’re great little guns, for the intended purpose.
I wouldn’t worry too much about removing all the fouling build-up over the barrel. You best bet is to soak the area with CLP and let it work for a while. You might try scraping the build-up with the edge of an old credit card, but don’t try to make it look new. You’ll do more harm than good.
I’ve owned these two for a long time. I let new shooters use my 3” enough that it had to go back to the factory to have the endshake corrected. That was after a lot of bricks of .22’s. They’re great little guns, for the intended purpose.
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I have used a plastic razor blade in that spot with excellent results after a long liberal soak with CLP. I would not get too aggressive - the clear finish of this era is not the most durable.
Mark 40
Member
In this thread: Best way to clean Airlite revolver??? one of our members, Mister X, contacted S&W and they recommended M-Pro7.
http://smith-wessonforum.com/s-w-re...lver-post138016625.html?386695=#post138016625
I haven't taken my new 317 to the range yet, so can't confirm how it works.
http://smith-wessonforum.com/s-w-re...lver-post138016625.html?386695=#post138016625
I haven't taken my new 317 to the range yet, so can't confirm how it works.
gwpercle
Member
Your best bet ... I've owned one since 2004 ... is to clean that area and any other that gets a carbon build up with Hoppe's Elite Gun Cleaner (HEGC) and a tooth brush ... the finish is rather wimpy ... anything realy harsh will eat the "clear coat" right off ... trust me on this, I learned the hard way !
No steel wool . The HEGC is formulated not to damage a plastic finish ...so you need to let the carbon area soak for 24 hours , scrub and soak till gone ... Don't let it build up ... also a good way to clean carbon off front of cylinder (face) .
Under the top strap is faily well concealed but you don't want to get too aggressive with abrasives and steel wool and lead away ...tooth brush and HEBC or other bore cleaner that's safe for plastic frames ...
S&W needs to develop a better finish ... it's not even very wear resistant .
I love everything about it except the thin finish mine has 3" barrel and adjustable sights ...on a belt holster you don't even know it's there ... slips into a coat or cargo shorts pocket like it was meant to live there .
Gary
No steel wool . The HEGC is formulated not to damage a plastic finish ...so you need to let the carbon area soak for 24 hours , scrub and soak till gone ... Don't let it build up ... also a good way to clean carbon off front of cylinder (face) .
Under the top strap is faily well concealed but you don't want to get too aggressive with abrasives and steel wool and lead away ...tooth brush and HEBC or other bore cleaner that's safe for plastic frames ...
S&W needs to develop a better finish ... it's not even very wear resistant .
I love everything about it except the thin finish mine has 3" barrel and adjustable sights ...on a belt holster you don't even know it's there ... slips into a coat or cargo shorts pocket like it was meant to live there .
Gary
You could always call S&W and see what they would charge.
They may even re-coat it for free.
.38SuperMan
Member
My wife has a 3” that she bought used several years ago and the finish was not great when she bought it. Many thousands of rounds down range and after many cleanings the finish is now pretty rough. I clean it for her each range trip and always use CLP and a nylon toothbrush as mentioned above.
I’m not sure why Smith continues to use this finish because it just won’t hold up and it’s so fragile it makes it difficult to do a thorough cleaning. I’m not sure why they don’t Cerakote them. My wife decided to get it Cerakote this summer. I think she’s going to have it done in black.
I’m not sure why Smith continues to use this finish because it just won’t hold up and it’s so fragile it makes it difficult to do a thorough cleaning. I’m not sure why they don’t Cerakote them. My wife decided to get it Cerakote this summer. I think she’s going to have it done in black.
Invictus357
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Good suggestions in this thread.
Avoid Hoppes #9 and lead cloths on these guns.
Try Mpro-7 first.
Make sure everything is squeaky clean behind the ejector star.
If Mpro-7 fails I would then try Ballistol.
Avoid Hoppes #9 and lead cloths on these guns.
Try Mpro-7 first.
Make sure everything is squeaky clean behind the ejector star.
If Mpro-7 fails I would then try Ballistol.
Wee Hooker
Member
Agree that the finish on the 317's is "Whimpey". Every used 317 I've come across ( while working in a LGS) tended to look prematurely beat up. It was actually the finish that steered me towards a model 63 vs 317 when I went looking for a kit gun.
I'll also second the recommendation for HEGC . After reading horror stories about what some traditional cleaners could do to their finish, I bought some a while back to use on my (986 and 360 PD) revolvers with titanium cylinders . The stuff works good. Maybe even better than good old #9.
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