Cleaning a 686

Dstyles75

Dstyles75

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Hello,

I'm a new owner of a 686-4 and was wondering about the best way to clean the bore. I bought two gun cleaning kits. One from M-Pro 7 with a bore snake, and one from KleenBore with a cleaning rod. The bore snake packaging stated that it cleaned 9mm, 38, 380, and 357 calibers. It passed through my 9mm just fine. No matter how hard I pulled I could not get it to pass through my 686. I even had trouble pulling it back out.

I've read alot of people don't like to use a cleaning rod because it might damage the bore or the muzzle.

I'd like to how you guys prefer to clean the bore and can you recommend any specific brand or products that might work better for me.

Thanks in advance.
Dave
 
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Bore snakes are good. They do sometimes need you to wrap the cord around your hand a few times and give it a good serious pull to get them through. Brushes, rods, jags all work, too. Here is a page for cleaning a Ruger that is pretty much how I clean my 586, I even use the sock method, too:

Cleaning the Ruger Security Six .357 Magnum

I use only FP-10 or Breakfree CLP on my guns. Both clean as well as lube and are good for wipedown, so it's a one-product solution.

Many like good old fashioned Hoppes #9 on the barrel. (some just like the smell) and then may RemOil on the outside.

Ballistol works, too. In fact, I'm find a lot of people use and like Ballistol, and have tried it on my Glock. Find what works for you. On a stainless gun, you can also use lead-away cloths around the chambers to really clean it up, but don't use them on any blued guns. If you're like me and like to clean your gun to new every time out, you will want those.

Another thing I do is a little preventative maintenance. Meaning, right before I shoot, I put a few drops of FP-10 (Shooter's Choice) or Breakfree CLP on a cotton pad and swab around the muzzle, forcing cone, topstrap, and back of the ejector rod. As soon as I am done shooting, I wipe these areas right away with an old rag and it takes off a ton of residue (if I put in the bag and get it home, more work). I also give the barrel a quick spray and then run a bore snake through. All right on the range. This saves a LOT of time detailing the gun when you get home for the cleaning process outlined in the above line. Otherwise on some chambers you can run white pads through all night and they will come out black.
 
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I agree with oysterhead that a nylon brush is preferable to a brass one. I just have trouble finding them. The ballistol works well for me.
 
Had mine for a year. 686, 4". LOVE this gun. One thing I have found out is that the dark rings that form on the front of the cylinders is impossible to get off. If anyone has a remedy I would love to know it.
 
Cylinder face Black Soot Cleanup

Budrock56, RemOil 40-X Bore Cleaner and Nylon Bristle Brush + 30 seconds of elbow grease = Nice Clean Cylinder Face! All of my revolvers get the same treatment. I clean each cylinder and the barrel bore with a bronze bristle brush lubed with this bore cleaner, then clean with cotton patches with RemOil. Leaves everything lubed and clean! Hope this helps... John
 
I use the Birchwood Casey lead remover cloth and it works amazingly well on the front of the cylider.
 
I just cleaned my 686-4 last night. Historically, I had used Hoppes #9 and the usual array of cleaning products, but based on several recommendations I purchased some new stuff called "Fruglube". It smells just like Ben Gay (ha). I threw the patches and paper towels in the garbage can in the kitchen, and this morning I pushed open the lid to put something else in and the smell hit me...not remembering the Froglube, my first thought was "who has a back ache" LOL. It does really smell like Ben Gay. Anyway...it is good stuff. I bought it for my wife's Sig, but I ended up cleaning several of my guns with it. Very slick stuff and it kept getting stuff out of the barrel. I had my father-in-law's very old Pre-Model 10 that I cleaned and I'll bet I pushed 50 patches through and kept getting crud...I would use bronze brushes, and then a few patches...kept applying the frog lube and kept getting crud. Finally got it clean...but even the 686-4 was pretty clean. I used the Froglube solvent and cleaned it until I got clean patches, and then switched to the Froglube CLP and I got a LOT more **** out of the barrel. After a couple of cleanings with the CLP it is supposed to get easier to clean each time. Anyway, based on my one-time use of Froglube, it looks like something I will continue to use. And if I hurt my back I may try it on that too. Best wishes, B
 
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