Cleaning a New 686 Plus

[GEORGEP2]

Hi

I am new to the forum. I just purchased a new S & W 686 Plus (7 shot) with a 2.5 inch barrel. I used to carry a S & W revolver on the Department I work for until we transitioned to semi auto's in the 1990's. With the old pistols we had (model 67-68's) we were taught a cleaning procedure involving removing the front screw on the frame to take out the cylinder assembly. I cant remember if we were told to run the worn cleaning brush through the cylinders while still attached to the frame or not. The process was also described in the owners manual and in our academy manual. I noticed that the "New Revolvers" owners manual does not describe this process and seems to indicate that you should not remove the cylinder assembly (or anything else for that matter) during cleaning.

Does anyone have any info. on this?

Also, have there been any unique problems with the new models of the S&W 686 with a 2.5 inch barrel? I would like to carry it for plain clothes assignments etc.

Thanks

GEORGEP2

 

[OKFC05]

"New Revolvers" owners manual does not describe this process and seems to indicate that you should not remove the cylinder assembly (or anything else for that matter) during cleaning.

For routine cleaning, I leave the 686 fully assembled.
I do recommend holding the CYLLINDER in your off hand when running cleaning brushes and cloths through it to avoid putting undue pressure against the yoke retaining screw, but you don't have to pull the yoke screw every time you clean the gun.
Be sure to clean under the star and lightly lube the star, cylinder stop and locking bolt. I also put a drop of light oil down the space in front of the cocked hammer and cycle several times; any excss just runs down the trigger where you can wipe it off.

 

[shawn mccarver]

S&W has never recommended removal of anything for cleaning the revolver.

Here is the procedure I use:

Dip a bristle brush in Hoppes No. 9 Solvent and scrub the barrel and each charge hole. Allow the solvent to stand in the barrel and charge holes to "work" while you are cleaning the rest of the revolver.

A toothbrush or nylon type brush dipped in the same solvent is then used to scrub all of the external surfaces that have burned powder, oil, fouling or any other gunk from firing. Pay particular attention to the front of the cylinder near the center pin and to the ejector and under the ejector.

After you complete this surface scrubbing, then use a shop rag and wipe off the exterior of the revolver.

Then use a patch and scrub out the solvent from each charge hole and the barrel.

Finally, I use a patch with a few drops of Break Free CLP on a jag on a cleaning rod to put a light coat of oil in the barrel and each charge hole.

Lastly, a drop or two on the tip of the finger sparingly applied to the exterior of the revolver and a final wipe down leaves the revolver in ready condition to re-load and holster for carry purposes.

 

[GEORGEP2]

Thanks for the information. I will try it before going to the range next week.

GEORGEP2

 

[R*E]

Brownells has a bronze chamber brush that's has a large diameter than a bore brush.

BRONZE RIFLE/PISTOL CHAMBER BRUSHES | Brownells

It makes cleaning the chambers a whole lot easier.

 

[John P.]

I carried a model 13 and then a 686 early in my career before we went to semi-auto's. We were taught in the academy to remove the yoke screw and remove the cylinder and yoke for a good cleaning. That being said, I only do this every third or fourth cleaning, now. The important thing is to get a good set of gunsmithing screwdrivers and be careful. I use the ones Brownells sell. My 13 and 686 have slightly bugged yoke screws because at the academy and PD we only had standard screwdrivers.