Cleaning Airweights

[FloridaFlier]

One of the reasons that I have not bought an aluminium body airweight has been that some of them look absolutely terrible in a short time. A quick check of the on-line auctions shows that steel-bodied J-frames are increasingly rare.

I admit that I am one of those guys who likes to keep my guns looking factory-new after shooting. I do clean the cylinder face of my stainless guns with the green Scotch pads. I also occasionally use a brass brush around the forcing cones.

I am afraid that if I bought an aluminium J-frame, I might mar the finish with Hoppe's, a brass brush and scotch pads. Also, because I reload, I sometimes have to be a bit more aggressive in cleaning to make sure there is no remaining lead in the barrel or forcing cone.

Would those of you who own, shoot, and clean airweights please tell me what you use, and what (if any) changes to the finish you have observed from your preferred, or other, products or cleaning techniques?

As always, thank you in advance for sharing your knowledge and experiences.

 

[S&W Fan]

I'm a big fan of MPro 7, been using it on all my firearms for years. Recently bought a 442 and while I've only put 100 rds through it it looks just fine. I anticipate it'll eventually show more wear from carry than cleaning.

 

[Dghost]

Hello. I carry and shoot a PC 637 airweight.
Make sure you use a cleaner that's safe to use on the coated aluminum frame. I only use Hoppes Elite and a nylon brush if needed. Most of the time I can get by with just the Hoppes and a wipe down with an old t shirt.
There is absolutely no wear on the frame from cleaning.
Keep in mind that the barrel and cylinder are stainless steel, so you can clean them the way you normally prefer. Just make sure the scotch pads stay far away from the frame.
If you plan to carry, you cannot beat an airweight. If it's for range use only, then I would go with the all steel.

 

[kaaskop49]

attn Dghost

Welcome to the Forum. Always great to have new members! You're very knowledgeable about cleaning. That means I do the same thing...

It is possible to clean a gun thoroughly without becoming obsessive about it. Similar to kicking the snow off one's boots before walking in the house, I wipe down the gun with a dry cloth BEFORE using solvent. This removes much powder fouling that solvent does not have to deal with later. I've been told that the metal of the gun contracts while cooling down after shooting: this pushes out fouling from the pores of the metal and is another step in cleaning before solvent.

While I prefer a bronze brush, the nylon brush that Dghost suggests will loosen unburned powder granules and fouling from around the forcing cone. Do NOT use a knife blade to scrape them off.

Been doing it this way for decades. YMMV (Boogsawaste, is this the proper term?)

 

[Dghost]

Thanks for the welcome. I've been shooting for many years. Range, IDPA, etc. I look forward to participating in the forums.

 

[gwpercle]

I have two airweights that i've carried for years. A 38 spcl. #637 and a 22 LR #317 Both have a "silver" finish... S&W calls it matt silver. Both have held up very well. You have to look close to notice any wear...it's only along the edges of the cylinder. The ones with a "black" finish seem to get ratty looking a lot faster. I'm not sure what kind of "paint" it is but it doesn't hold up well.
You will be better served with matt silver finish. It seems to be less fragile than old fashioned bluing. It wears well.
Gary

 

[snubbyfan]

Welcome to the Forum. Always great to have new members! You're very knowledgeable about cleaning. That means I do the same thing...

It is possible to clean a gun thoroughly without becoming obsessive about it. Similar to kicking the snow off one's boots before walking in the house, I wipe down the gun with a dry cloth BEFORE using solvent. This removes much powder fouling that solvent does not have to deal with later. I've been told that the metal of the gun contracts while cooling down after shooting: this pushes out fouling from the pores of the metal and is another step in cleaning before solvent.

While I prefer a bronze brush, the nylon brush that Dghost suggests will loosen unburned powder granules and fouling from around the forcing cone. Do NOT use a knife blade to scrape them off.

Been doing it this way for decades. YMMV (Boogsawaste, is this the proper term?)

That's pretty much the way I do it. Then I use a product called Firepower FP-10 as a solvent to get the stuff that the dry cloth misses.

 

[FloridaFlier]

Well gentlemen, that's what I wanted to hear. I've been shopping for another J-Frame (who ever has enough?) and needed the scuttlebutt on cleaning them without damaging the aluminium finish. Thanks again to all.

 

[kaaskop49]

I've been shopping for another J-Frame (who ever has enough?).

Amen to that, brother. With that outlook, we'll make a J-hound of you yet.

Kaaskop49
J-hound extraordinaire

 

[Pef]

I have a 637 that I carry often. It has held up well, but there is holster wear and other wear at the edges. It seems to happen with the finish. Here's a picture and you can see the wear along the back corner of the frame near the top of hammer. The front part of the gun that receives the yoke has some wear - the finish has worn off along the edge from engaging the holster. This does not bother me, but if it would bother you, you might want to consider getting a model 60 in .38, such as a 60-7 or a 60-3.

Best,
PEF

 

[Nemo288]

I have a 396 with the titanium cylinder.
I am still looking for an authoritative list of solvents and de-greasers I can use inside this cylinder.
I have been told NOT to use anything with ammonia but S&W would not
recommend a solvent and de-greaser that is safe for the titanium.
Anyone have more information?
I am now resorting to experimenting with the newer "synthetic" and water based solvents.
I did get a spare cylinder in case I destroy this one but would rather not find out the hard way.
It's a sweet gun just the way it is.

===
Nemo

 

[shawn mccarver]

I have always used standard brass bristle brush, nylon tooth brush, Hoppes No. 9 and Break Free. I have never had a problem. As to rings on the cylinder face, I do not know what to tell you. There is no need to clean them apart from making sure there is no "gunk" interfering with cylinder rotation. If you need a revolver to look "as new," my only real suggestion is to buy a second one for display and use one as a shooter and for carry.

EDIT FOR CLARIFICATION: I am not sure from a couple of the posts if everyone understands this, so I will clarify. The brass bristle brush is used ONLY in the bore and each charge hole. The nylon brush is used elsewhere. Also, my comments are applicable to AIRWEIGHT revolvers, which is what the OP was asking about, at least as I understood the post. My comments are not necessarily applicable to AIRLITE Ti revolvers.

 

[Nemo288]

I was told NOT to use a brass brush on the titanium (by S&W) so I am using plastic.
I don't worry about the cylinder face, just wiping off the loose powder.
I am beginning to believe the titanium cylinders don't "grab" the firing brass as well as steel
as I get some blowback no matter how stiff the load.
Maybe the coating is already damaged.
Since it puts the bullets where I point, I am not worrying too much about any of this.

===
Nemo

 

[leeloader]

I have an Airweight M442-1 38spcl +p. Here is the process I use.
1 - remove the rubber grips that came with the pistol
2 - spray down with CLP, let soak a couple minutes
3 - wipe off CLP & use air compressor for elsewhere
4 - use hopes copper patch to soak inside of barrel
5 - keep using dry patches until barrel is clean
6 - if copper is stubborn, consider longer soak or use bristle
7 - after copper, use hopes #9 for barrel
8 - dry patches until clean
9 - stubborn, use more hopes #9 and let soak a few then repeat
A - repeat CLP
B - wipe off and air compressor elsewhere
C - gun oil inside barrel
D - wipe off excess oil in barrel with clean patch
E - replace rubber grips
F - store in safe and place last clean date on calendar
-
-
That is all I do for all my pistols/revolvers. They don't rust and look as new as can expect minus normal wear.
-
edited comment: I forgot to add that every so often I remove the cylinder via the small screw just above the trigger guard and clean/oil it. Occasionally I remove the plate that houses the hammer, etc and CLP that area as well and wipe clean. I then use shooters grease on the metal/metal areas in that housing.

 

[MichiganScott]

I cleaned mine today with the same solvent I've used since it was new twelve years ago, Shooter's Choice cut 50/50 with Kroil. A brass brush is used in the barrel, cylinder charge holes and the face of the cylinder. The finish is unharmed.

 

[radar1972]

I have always used standard brass bristle brush, nylon tooth brush, Hoppes No. 9 and Break Free. I have never had a problem. As to rings on the cylinder face, I do not know what to tell you. There is no need to clean them apart from making sure there is no "gunk" interfering with cylinder rotation. If you need a revolver to look "as new," my only real suggestion is to buy a second one for display and use one as a shooter and for carry.

EDIT FOR CLARIFICATION: I am not sure from a couple of the posts if everyone understands this, so I will clarify. The brass bristle brush is used ONLY in the bore and each charge hole. The nylon brush is used elsewhere. Also, my comments are applicable to AIRWEIGHT revolvers, which is what the OP was asking about, at least as I understood the post. My comments are not necessarily applicable to AIRLITE Ti revolvers.

^^^^^^ this.

 

[leeloader]

Don't get to radical about cleaning the cylinder outlet that rides next to the barrel. You don't want to use abrasive cleaners in that area for the carbon buildup as you need that tight clearance between the cylinder and barrel. Making that area wider is not good.

 

[Biscut]

I'm new to the snubbie addiction....I've fallen in love with my MP340. I waned a Ti cylinder (still do) but now have a 340 with SS cylinder and have used nothing but CLP and a few strokes of a brass brush. I keep detailed records...I have 80 357 loads, about 200 38, and 50 38+ down the pipe.

I will be sending it to my smth for a trigger job. My smith is good with it and has done many. I see how the aft portion of the cylinder face gets some wear marks from firing and I also have some wear marks showing on the sides of each chamber of the cylinder. I'm not a big fan of these marks but I dont think there is anything I can do.

I feel like I NEED another...ha! And I'm far from a revolver fan!

 

[Kadonny]

642 Pro series here. I shoot it, carry it and honestly I don't care how it looks as long as it goes bang on the range the next time. So far it has not let me down once.

I keep A fairly clean gun, but it's going to wear and I'm perfectly fine with it as long as it keeps firing, it's not a trophy piece.

 

[fthorsby]

I had a 638 Airweight. The finish became badly damaged, I sent it to S&W and they replaced it at no cost (new gun entirely). I got a call from S&W, they asked me not to use Hoppe #9. Hoppe Elite or M Pro 7 work fine. Now I only use Hoppe #9 on vintage blued handguns and long guns.