Cleaning Crud and removing Scratches on a model 659

[Goat Man]

Yall please bear with me on this. I am a newbee at this. This is a two part question:
I have a model 659 that I need to do some serious cleaning on. It is a project gun for me. I have heard some suggest soaking a stainless gun such as the 659 in CLP. Is this the best stuff to use, or is there something better to use? How much (stuff) do I need to buy, and what is the best place to find this (stuff)? How long should I soak it?

Whoever had this gun at some point had a problem removing the take down pin. I just got the gun back from S&W after having them to replace the sear release lever, and to fix the take down pin. The pin just would not come out. This person who had the gun before me scratched the area around and under the take down pin. Some scratches are deep. The worst thankfully are under the take down lever, and do not show too much. I have seen instructions posted someplace, detailing how to get sctratches like this out, but I cannot now find it, and yes I did try to search for this information.

Any and all suggestions, or other information on these two issues would be very much appreciated.

 

[PH-2]

Goat,

(Got any "nervous" goats?) Midway/Brownells used to sell a big bucket of solvent for dunking guns - remove the grips first(!).

For a proper job, buy the armorer's video at either merchant or AGI, and strip it down completely and DEEP CLEAN!

Mother's mag polish/Flitz and-or scotchbrite are your friends for polishing SS. You'll have to polish the entire gun for an even finish.

Mike

 

[TAROMAN]

There are many good crud cutters. My favorite in KROIL. You can also soak in "Ed's Red":
CONTENTS: Ed's Red Bore Cleaner

1 part Dexron ATF, GM Spec. D-20265 or later.

1 part Kerosene - deodorized, K1

1 part Aliphatic Mineral Spirits

CAS #64741-49-9, or substitute "Stoddard Solvent", CAS #8052-41-3, or equivalent.

1 part Acetone, CAS #67-64-1.

I had similar deep scratches on a Model 639. My fix was to strip it and set up a rig with #320 wet/dry sandpaper on a flat surface (glass) then attach a straightedge that allows the part to be moved back and forth in one axis only. Lubricate the paper with WD40 (or Ed's). Normally only a few strokes are necessary to remove all but the deepest gouges. Finish with gray Scotch-Brite from the auto supply paint dept. Try the Scotch Brite first. Often it will do the trick by itself.

 

[rbert0005]

I have used Hppes Elite with brushes (cleaning and bronze) with great results. Then flush out with brake cleaner. A compressor will get that stuff all out of there. Make sure you lube in well. The gun will be completely stripped of oils after the flushing.

Taking it down as far as you can is sound advise.

Bob