Cleaning Nickel Plated S&W Model 36 circa 1984

[s&wfan200]

What is the best solvent for nickel plated revolvers? I typically use Hoppes #9, Butch's Bore Shine, or CLP, but only for blued revolvers. I understand nickel requires some special cleaning procedures in order to avoid damaging the finish. My gun is a LNIB Model 36 manufactured in late 1984. Any recommendations or thoughts on the proper solvent? Thanks for any advice you might offer.

 

[Jaymo]

I'd avoid any solvents that contain ammonia and/or are formulated to remove cuprous metal fouling.
I don't think Break Free, Tri-Flow, FP10, or Kroil would hurt it.
I could be wrong about any or all of them.
It's happened before.

 

[Cleandean]

Prolix is preferred among many , who try to be kind to nickled finishes.
I've used "ole Hoppes # 9 judiciciously with no ill effects on Mod.29...& Python ( both bright nickel )
When needed.... "Simichome " paste, (in a squeeze tube) applied with a cotton ball to polish - up bad discoloring or tarnish & scratches.

 

[Jaymo]

I'm not familiar with Prolix.
Is it good on stainless steel, too?

 

[dlbx2]

Use MAAS fine metal polish. You won't be sorry! DLB

Smith & Wesson Forum - dlbx2's Album: 29-2 6 inch nickel - Picture

 

[S.B.]

First, what area are you wanting to clean, bore or finish?
Steve

 

[s&wfan200]

Steve,

My primary concern is selecting the proper solvent to use for cleaning the bore and cylinders that will not damage the nickel finish. After a little research I found that it is best to avoid any solvents with ammonia and/or copper compounds. Thanks for your interest.

 

[Cleandean]

S&w fan; You are so right when it is a matter of avoiding ammonia based or highly abrassive cleaners.
I am advised to stay away from ...KG-12 , or any aggressive copper solvents.
Good nickle plating, has copper plating as a base coat to fill in imperfections.
Prolix is good on any finish. And yes, stainless is tolerant to almost all cleaners and solvents.

 

[S.B.]

S&w fan; You are so right when it is a matter of avoiding ammonia based or highly abrassive cleaners.
I am advised to stay away from ...KG-12 , or any aggressive copper solvents.
Good nickle plating, has copper plating as a base coat to fill in imperfections.
Prolix is good on any finish. And yes, stainless is tolerant to almost all cleaners and solvents.

I once bought a rather dilapidated model 58 barrel that was nickel plated and soaked it for some time(several days) in Hoppe's No.9 solvent with no ill effects?? The finish had been chipped and wore badly. Not saying to use this but, in my case anyway, did no harm and I personally avoid it on anything nickel, myself. I wonder if this isn't a very extreme case of someone leaving a gun for an extended period(years)of time with Hoppe's on it?
By the way, ammonia eats copper so doubt you'll find something with both in it.
Steve

 

[poordevil]

I know, on the larger bottles of Hoppes #9 it says not to leave it on a nickel finish. I use CLP-Break free to clean bore and charge holes. I use brass bore brushes and steel or brass tooth brush for cylinder face and recoil shield.

 

[BJoe]

I once bought a rather dilapidated model 58 barrel that was nickel plated and soaked it for some time(several days) in Hoppe's No.9 solvent with no ill effects?? The finish had been chipped and wore badly. Not saying to use this but, in my case anyway, did no harm and I personally avoid it on anything nickel, myself. I wonder if this isn't a very extreme case of someone leaving a gun for an extended period(years)of time with Hoppe's on it?
By the way, ammonia eats copper so doubt you'll find something with both in it.
Steve

Amen. LOTS of info warning of NOT using #9 but in 40+ tears I have never had a problem nor seen any guns with #9 finish problems.

 

[rck281]

I would not use Butch's Bore Shine. It's an excellent bore cleaner and does a good job of removing copper. Used it a lot when I shot benchrest. I have use good ole Hoppe's #9 on my nickel guns without a problem.

 

[rbert0005]

Do NOT use #9, it's just not worth the chance of wrecking the finish. If you have any worn thru spots in the nickel it will get under it and start the nickel peeling.

Personally use Hoppes Elite. I have not used #9 since I tried the Elite.

Bob

 

[S.B.]

Do NOT use #9, it's just not worth the chance of wrecking the finish. If you have any worn thru spots in the nickel it will get under it and start the nickel peeling.

Personally use Hoppes Elite. I have not used #9 since I tried the Elite.

Bob

Not in my experiment. To all who say this, have you done this before? Hoppe's No. 9 was originally brought out to clean black powder residue off muzzleloaders with no rusting.
Steve

 

[s&wfan200]

Thanks to all for your replies. I'm new to the forum and there are some knowledgeable and great members out there helping other shooters.

 

[CoMF]

Hello, and welcome to the forum. To echo what the others have stated, I would avoid using Hoppe's No. 9 on any nickeled firearm and highly recommend Break-Free CLP as a cleaner and Flitz for polishing. My wife uses the latter on her nickel plated knitting needles and they show no signs of wear, flaking or peeling.