Cleaning Powder Burns From Blued Guns

[Nick B]

I've got to say that I'm spoiled with cleaning the outside of my stainless guns with a lead cloth. The powder burns come right off and any lead outside of the barrel shank/forcing cone area is easy to remove too .
So anyway what does everyone use on their blued guns to clean powder burns on the frame and cylinder ? Also clean the lead that sometimes gets on around the barrel shank ?
And yes I know a lead cloth on a blued gun is a big no no .

 

[Laketime]

I use Hoppes 9 , and a toothbrush, with time and elbow grease.

 

[Warren Sear]

WD-40 applied and then left to soak will loosen the crud.

Asbestos undies donned.

 

[jepp2]

My first step in gun cleaning is using Ed's Red (you can either make it, buy it at Brownells or use Kroil which is about the same). It tends to soften the carbon so the sooner you apply it, the better. The carbon will continue to harden given time.

After an overnight soak, use your favorite bore solvent. Hoppe's is fine.

The other advantage for using Ed's Red is the penetrating aspect. So if you have any lead deposits, it makes removing them much easier.

 

[chief38]

I use Rig #2 oil and a toothbrush - my wife's but don't tell her

I carry a flannel cloth soaked (not dripping) with the Rig #2 Oil in a HD Zip lock bag in my Range Bag and right before putting the gun back in its rug I wipe it down with the rag. That takes off 98% of the crud, dirt and dust, keeps the inside of my pistol rug clean and makes cleaning the gun at home a snap.

PS: Never wipe a dirty gun down with a DRY rag unless you like scratches.

 

[stang1911]

Brownell's has what you need,works like magic

 

[Harrison]

Ditto, the Ed's Red. It's great stuff.

 

[Neumann]

Hoppe's, Kroil, Ballistol, ..., all work well to remove major deposits, along with a bristle or brass brush. Stains on the front of the cylinder will remain, but they won't hurt anything unless they drag on the barrel.

You can use Flitz and a toothbrush to remove any residual stains, mostly for dressing the revolver up for a photo session. It won't hurt factory bluing, but will strip cold blue in short order.

 

[chief38]

Forgot to mention in my response above that the reason for wiping it down right after I shoot is that the sooner you wipe it off the easier and faster it is. Get it while it's warm!

 

[SgtLumpy]

I'm pretty sure that just about any oil or solvent, if left on the gun for a while, and especially if applied while the gun is still warm and the deposits are new, would work just as good as any other.

CLP, WD40, EdsRed, GarysGreen, Johnsons Baby Oil, Crisco, Bear fat.

I use BreakFree CLP, mostly because it's easier to carry and apply than the others above... Apply before leaving the range. Wipe it off later when you get home or even the next day.


Sgt Lumpy

 

[Warren Sear]

Hoppe's, Kroil, Ballistol, ..., all work well to remove major deposits, along with a bristle or brass brush. Stains on the front of the cylinder will remain, but they won't hurt anything unless they drag on the barrel.

You can use Flitz and a toothbrush to remove any residual stains, mostly for dressing the revolver up for a photo session. It won't hurt factory bluing, but will strip cold blue in short order.

With all due respect, Flitz is a mild abrasive, and it will indeed remove factory bluing.

 

[trap4570]

I use old strip of cotton bed sheet and Kroil oil. Also great for getting those stuck screws loose and I use it as a soak when removing barrels from Rugers and old Mausers.

 

[alwslate]

I use Breakfree CLP shortly after firing to clean fouling and light lead
deposits from the bore, chambers and outside of the gun. I don't
worry about burn marks.