Cleaning Solvent Recommendations

Marine Corps Air

Marine Corps Air

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I went to the range on Friday with my Model 19-5 (Nickel) and experienced problems with the cylinder closing and locking (single action). I always clean my firearms every time after I return from the range. The gun range staff checked it, removed the side plate, and said that there is gummed oil on the moving parts. They showed it to me and I did not see an excessive buildup. They recommended having a gunsmith clean it for me. He says that he charges $100-$120 for this work, and that it will be 2-3 weeks before I have it back. This is the same experience that a proctologist provides, for about the same price!

I searched this forum this morning for cleaning recommendations, read the posts, and also watched several You Tube videos, especially one by Midway.

I'm ready to tackle this job myself.

The You Tube video never mentioned a recommended cleaning solvent. Is there a best or recommended product for S&Ws?
 
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If you look at the next youtube video on how to clean a semi auto the spray solvent he uses is Tetra gun Action Blaster. It is the same one in the revolver video. I use my bore cleaner which is Eds Red and a toothbrush. There is no best or recommended product IMHO. The procto comment is spot on!

Steve
 
An old standard is Hoppes 9 for the chambers and bore, Breakfree CLP for everything else.

Hoppes 9, or any product with ammonia, can play (very) badly with nickel finishes if the nickel's compromised anywhere; the ammonia will eat away at the exposed copper plating beneath the nickel, and subsequently the nickel flakes and chips.

There are guys using Hoppes gingerly on their nickeled guns without negative outcome; you be the judge.

Alternately, you can stick with CLP alone, which I think is fine -- a good product that does most jobs well. If you're dealing with significant carbon, lead or copper fouling, something more specialized might be called for. Because you're planning a simple clean and lube, I'd stick with CLP alone and not risk finish issues.

The gunsmith's charge for a basic clean is ridiculous.
 
Hapworth said:
An old standard is Hoppes 9 for the chambers and bore, Breakfree CLP for everything else.

Hoppes 9, or any product with ammonia, can play (very) badly with nickel finishes if the nickel's compromised anywhere; the ammonia will eat away at the exposed copper plating beneath the nickel, and subsequently the nickel flakes and chips.

There are guys using Hoppes gingerly on their nickeled guns without negative outcome; you be the judge.

Alternately, you can stick with CLP alone, which I think is fine -- a good product that does most jobs well. If you're dealing with significant carbon, lead or copper fouling, something more specialized might be called for. Because you're planning a simple clean and lube, I'd stick with CLP alone and not risk finish issues.

The gunsmith's charge for a basic clean is ridiculous.
Click to expand...

Breakfree CLP is a very good choice. Hapworth is right on the nickeled guns.
 
Last edited:
No Hoppes! It eats the cooper baseplate under the nickel and can turn the nickel green with Copper oxidation! I have seen Hoppes 9 get under the sideplate srews an peel off plating. Usually happens where soaking solvent finds voids in plating. Try Kroil. H/P shooters use it and swear by it. Keep solvents away that can seep under voids in nickel. Even a spider line void in nickel can be enough.
 
cleaning solvent

I use MPRO7 cleaner and their LPX lubricant on all of my guns. They are biodegradable and non toxic. Many of the law enforcement agencies and the military have been using the product for years without a problem. I would be very careful removing the side plate. Remove the swcrews and tap on the back strap with non maring plastic hammer or screw driver handle and the plate should dislodge itself. I would remove the main spring, hammer, rebound spring and trigger. Degrease the parts and lightly lub them before reinstalling. Clean out the area and lightly lub as well. That should take care of the problem. Reinsert the parts in the reverse order. Lay the parts out when you disassemble the gun in order in install in reverse. Go slow and look at the function of the gun before you tackle removing the parts.

Nick
 
Hey guys, I was wondering about this also. I recently bought a nickel 29-2 and I've been using Ballistol on all of my other guns. I'm wondering if it's safe to use on nickel as well? This is from the MSDS:

Ballistol contains the following ingredients:
Mineral Oil
Potassium Oleate
Ammonium Oleate
Oleic Acid
Benzyl Alcohol
Amyl Alcohol
Isobutyl Alcohol
Benzyl Acetate
Anethole
Isohexane (aerosol only)
 
I have cleaned many old guns using a process similar to that of the
above poster. You have to disassemble the gun and clean-scrub all
parts that have any visible gummed up lube or fouling. The product I
use is Permatex Solvo Rust Super Penetrating Oil but I'm sure many
others will work. Once clean, dry and lightly relube parts with Break
free CLP and reassemble the gun. Probably never have to do the same
gun again.
 
If you are taking the gun apart to clean it just use laquer thinner. Hard to find a better solvent for the gunk that gets into a revolver. Ed's Red also has lots of solvents as BlueOvalBandit reported.
Stu
 
Asking which is the best solvent, oil, or preservative is a VERY subjective question to say the least. Each and every one of us have our own favorite and truth be told, there aren't many of the major name brands that are really bad. Most will do what they say they will and unless you have extreme conditions that you are carrying in, storing in, or shooting in, just about any will do the job. There are fellas here on the Forum who use just about any solvent or oil that happens to be handy at the time including motor oil or transmission fluid. Plenty cook up their own potions and from what I have seen , heard and witnessed in my years they all seem to work fairly well.

My personal favorite for over 35 years now has been Rig #2 Oil and Rig Universal Grease. I also like Remoil and still use Hoppes once in a while when I get a yearn for that nostalgic scent.
 
Aerosol carburetor spray is effective. Remove grips, (anything plastic or wood) sideplate, wear good eye protection. Carb spray has a lot of lacquer thinner in it. The pressure will wash a way dirt and grease. Soaking in lacquer thinner is also fine. Remember- open area, good ventilation, no ignition source, eye protection. I agree that the cleaning charge at the range is crazy.
 
Update:

My thanks and appreciation to everyone who has responded to my post. I have copied all of the responses and saved them in a Word document for future reference.

I am also looking for a trainer in this area who knows what they are doing (armorer, gunsmith, etc. with S&W revolvers) to train me in the removal of the side plate, removing the parts, cleaning and lubricating my S&W revolvers, etc

Then, whenever needed, I can disassemble, clean and lubricate all of my revolvers. Sound familiar? Give someone a meal and you feed them for a day, teach them how to farm and you feed them for the remainder of their life!

In addition to the You Tube videos that are available I also found a Jerry Miculek DVD on Amazon Amazon.com: Complete Revolver Disassembly & Reassembly with Jerry Miculek (DVD): Movies & TV@@AMEPARAM@@http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/41qvqRjB68L.@@AMEPARAM@@41qvqRjB68L
 
Well, everyone has own chemistry set of cleaners, oils and methods. I use Hoppes oil for lubricating, duraplate when grease is needed. for cleaning I use a water bases parts washer, but water based mineral spirits works great as well. bore cleaner for general cleaning is M-Pro 7 Bore Gel, if I need more I will use Sweets but its nasty stuff and I don't like using it if I don't have to. for penetrating oil I use Kroil oil and ballistol if I need some major rust breaking. Be warned ballistol smells like no other. synthetic and fine brass brushes, q-tips, pipe cleaners and dental picks. I use stainless brushes for the bore, yes everyone always says something about this one, but it works for me and with the amount of clean and oils I do they last longer and I only have to push the brush half of what I would with a a brass/bronze. I like tornado brushes with shotguns.

M-Pro7 also known as Hoppes Elite bore gel does some great work on plastic fouling with shotguns as well. I like to keep most of my stuff friendly to me, so water based ext.. if I need to step up to something stronger I will. Also make use you always clean/dry the parts when switching chemicals you don't want to mix stuff and have a bad reaction.

USNRigger
 
BlueOvalBandit said:
If you don't have it and are new to going under the hood of your revolver, you should get the DVD lots of good tips in there.
Click to expand...

Will do. I couldn't find any table of contents or description of the material in the DVD, but JM is a legend himself.

I also found my trainer today. 40 years in the business of providing TLC to all of his Smiths. He is only asking for a steak dinner in exchange for 1-2 hours of training, but I'll also be contributing to his "Next Gun Purchase kitty"!
 
I like Eezox for lube/protection but ran out, so I have some inbound plus RenWax too. I'm also out of CLP and no local retailers stock it, oddly enough.

So, I bought a can of S&W Bore & Action Cleaner at Big5 this afternoon but unsure just what it is. Says "synthetic-safe" but warns to remove wood or rubber stocks/grips. That can't be good... :confused: Maybe OK for (um) "bore & action" parts not in contact with at-risk part finish? I figure the stuff is private labelled version of a product I might recognize but thinking I'll return it unused. Maybe OK for my M&P Shield9 & M&P45c I'd also want it to be safe for my not-plastic guns...
 
BlueOvalBandit said:
I'd just mix up some Ed's Red is easy and super cheap

its a 1:1:1:1 ratio, so equal parts everything

kerosene, mineral spirits, acetone, & ATF

cuts gunk pretty good
Click to expand...

Another vote for Ed's Red. I mix it up without the acetone (which I understand is a later "add" to the mix for nylon fouling in shotguns from their wadding) for everything. I leave out the acetone as I also have it in my sonic cleaner.
 
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