Eastern Maine solvent

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has anyone used the Eastern Main shooting supplies concentrated Bore cleaner? Says will clean up with water and safe for wood metal and plastics. I have a small bottle to try next time I clean one but was trying to find out if it's any good before I try it. From whet little I could find Eastern Maine is the old Ox-Yoke company employees who took over the business but were unable to obtain the rights to Ox-Yoke.

It would be nice if it works and is safe.


Concentrated Bore Cleaner
 
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Largely agree with DWalt. However, the one-product-does-it-all system, in my experience, doesn't do it all well.
Yep, jack of all trades and a master of none. I generally use Hoppes No.9 as a solvent, finish with Corrosion X as a lubricant/corrosion protection and maybe Renaissance Wax for external corrosion protection.
 
I will not use and product that is water soluble or that contains water like Simple Green, etc. (and I do love simple green for general home cleaning). To me, putting water on steel isn't a good idea. Yes, probably less toxic, but I always work on my firearms wearing gloves.

The best bore solvent I have ever found is the old version of Hoppes 9. The second best is the newer version. Not saying this new stuff won't work - just saying I would not use it - quite honestly, no real need as the Hoppes works great.

For normal everyday clean-ups I use G96 Synthetic Gun Oil. For a routine clean it works very well - better than BreakFree CLP IMO. When things get nasty (rarely) that's when I grab the Hoppes 9.

I did try Ballistol - wound up giving the stuff away. I just could not handle the smelly foot odor!
 
Water is, by far, the the most superior solvent for those who fire corrosive primed ammo or black powder. Nothing else is anywhere close to being effective. Most commercial bore cleaners are merely different mixtures of simple solvents such as kerosene, mineral spirits, alcohol, and a few other organics such as ketones and glycols. Some contain ammonia and ammonium compounds to dissolve copper residue. But if copper bore fouling is the problem, using a product made specifically for copper removal is far better. For a little extra corrosion protection for storage, swabbing the bore with a little oil is recommended as a final step. Synthetic motor oil is the best for that purpose as it adheres well to metal. CLP is basically synthetic motor oil. Surprisingly, light household lube oils such as 3-in-1, sewing machine oil, gun oils, etc are also excellent bore cleaners all by themselves. Try one and see for yourself. You can clean a dirty bore with any commercial bore cleaner you normally use until you get a clean patch. Then run through another clean patch with oil on it, and it will come out dirty.

I know what the legendary "Ed's Red" is, and it is likely as effective as any commercial bore cleaner. But I cannot believe that it is significantly better than anything else. It's just more solvents.

Nothing concerning bore cleaning solvents, but I have always used paper towels for my gun cleaning needs, not cloth patches. Just tear off enough paper towel to make a suitable patch of the proper size. Makes life simpler.

Most military small arms ranges use PD-680 for range gun cleaning. PD-680 is the military's name for high flash point mineral spirits. It works well. Every USAF small arms range I have been on, and that is a large number, cleans their guns with a Safe-T-Clean parts cleaner like you would find in an auto repair shop along with with PD-680.
 
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Just to throw a possibly irrelevant observation into the discussion, I will cite an experience of my own to counter the possibility that someone might assume that all bore cleaners [/lubricants/preservative greases] are the same. Some are the same, some aren't.

I had occasion to have a trusted gunsmith alter and install a new trigger in my cut-down 25-2. He did a fine job, and I was pleased with his work, but he was using Ed's Red at the time, and when I got the revolver back, there was an initial hitch in the DA. I popped the sideplate, dried everything off and re-lubed with RIG +P Stainless Steel Lube. The hitch went away and never came back.

Lubes are not all the same. Probably bore cleaners aren't either.
 
Water is, by far, the the most superior solvent for those who fire corrosive primed ammo or black powder. Nothing else is anywhere close to being effective. Most commercial bore cleaners are merely different mixtures of simple solvents such as kerosene, mineral spirits, alcohol, and a few other organics such as ketones and glycols. Some contain ammonia and ammonium compounds to dissolve copper residue. But if copper bore fouling is the problem, using a product made specifically for copper removal is far better. For a little extra corrosion protection for storage, swabbing the bore with a little oil is recommended as a final step. Synthetic motor oil is the best for that purpose as it adheres well to metal. CLP is basically synthetic motor oil. Surprisingly, light household lube oils such as 3-in-1, sewing machine oil, gun oils, etc are also excellent bore cleaners all by themselves. Try one and see for yourself. You can clean a dirty bore with any commercial bore cleaner you normally use until you get a clean patch. Then run through another clean patch with oil on it, and it will come out dirty.

I know what the legendary "Ed's Red" is, and it is likely as effective as any commercial bore cleaner. But I cannot believe that it is significantly better than anything else. It's just more solvents.

Nothing concerning bore cleaning solvents, but I have always used paper towels for my gun cleaning needs, not cloth patches. Just tear off enough paper towel to make a suitable patch of the proper size. Makes life simpler.

Most military small arms ranges use PD-680 for range gun cleaning. PD-680 is the military's name for high flash point mineral spirits. It works well. Every USAF small arms range I have been on, and that is a large number, cleans their guns with a Safe-T-Clean parts cleaner like you would find in an auto repair shop along with with PD-680.

As I understand it, Ed's Red contains Acetone. I don't like using Acetone unless I have no other alternative! I have melted household and other plastics with Acetone and would not use it on any guns. I still have the original 1 quart can of Acetone I bought 30+ years ago and rarely have to resort to its use. No doubt in my mind it would clean well though!
 
ER is a mixture of acetone and ATF. Acetone has two issues. It is an aggressive solvent and can dissolve an oiled wood finish and some polymers, and it has a very low flash point, so it is a fire hazard. MEK will serve about any purpose that acetone can, and is somewhat safer to work with. I have mentioned previously that MEK as a wipedown solvent is a superb metal degreaser for guns being hot oxide blued.

As a bore cleaner, the ATF all by itself itself would probably be effective, even without acetone. Or it could be thinned some with a safer solvent such as mineral spirits.
 
...Acetone has two issues. It is an aggressive solvent and can dissolve an oiled wood finish and some polymers, and it has a very low flash point, so it is a fire hazard. MEK will serve about any purpose that acetone can, and is somewhat safer to work with. I have mentioned previously that MEK as a wipedown solvent is a superb metal degreaser for guns being hot oxide blued.
So, are you saying that MEK has a hugher flash point than acetone?

Acetone will dissolve some polymers. I've used it to "weld" some plastics. It worked extremely well on some plastics in a 96 Camry I used to have. Wet both ends of a break with acetone and press together. Welded!

I've also found MEK to work extremely well dissolving some things. But here's another puzzle, to me. What turns MEK into a catalyst for polyester resin?
 
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As one who cleans s firearms after each and every use, they never really get that dirty. Once in a while while after shooting a revolver hundreds of rounds (with lead bullets) I will break out the Hoppes 9. For the most part a good CLP (my current Fav. is G96 synthetic) does a very good job and Hoppes 9 is for the tuff stuff.
 
For over 50 years, I have used Hoppe's No. 9 and see no reason to change. For lube, I always used Birchwood Casey Gun Oil in the little tin can (lasts forever), and for grease, I use RIG. I also use Break Free CLP, and I like it in the little syringe type delivery system as it allows very precise delivery of a drop of oil exactly where you need it. Wilson Combat's Ultima Lube is very good also, and they used to have a syringe applicator, but the last time I looked, I did not see that type.
 
On the topic of oils, I use watch and clock oil for lubrication of internal gun parts. It does not gum up. It used to be made of sperm oil, but no longer available due to the whale shortage. It is now synthetic. A 4 ounce bottle of watch and clock oil should last a lifetime. As I implied earlier, I believe there is very little difference in performance among the commercial bore cleaning solvents. The best one is whatever brand you now already have on your shelf. I was given a quart of Shooters Choice around 15-20 years ago, and I will probably die long before it is used up. That is the principal reason it is my favorite.
 
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