Cleaning the cylinder on a 586

[DrewW]

I have heard both good and bad things about the Lewis Lead Remover, I may purchase one and give it a try, they aren't terribly expensive.

 

[chief38]

The Lewis Lead Remover has been part of my cleaning kit for 35 years now. In my opinion, it is the single best devise for removing lead fouling, bar none. Yes, the new chemicals will work, but the LLR works much faster and does a perfect job without causing any harm to the gun.

Second best thing since sliced bread!

www.hiddenguncabinet.com

chief38

 

[David Manson]

All:

We make a "De-Leading Tool" that was originally designed for use by commercial ranges to clean 357 revolvers that had seen a lot of 38 Special use as rentals. The reamer is ground 0005"
(that's 1/2 thousandth of an inch) smaller than the minimum SAAMI chamber for 357. Further, it has a section .0005" smaller than the minimum throat to remove leading in this area as well.

There is a leade angle that duplicates the SAAMI angle between charge hole and throat that is ground to scrape--not cut--the lead away on this surface.

It's designed for hand use only, to be turned by a T-handle we make, or a T-type tap handle of your own--takes less than five minutes to clean up a cylinder It works well and will not damage your cylinder IF USED CORRECTLY, BY HAND. (I emphasize this last statement because, years ago, a NJ cop put his in a drill press and proceeded to ruin two cylinders before stopping.)

Available @ $50.00, plus shipping in 357 and 44 cal.

Best regards,

Dave Manson
1-810-953-0732

 

[Damn Yankee]

I will post it again. Wrap some 0000 steel wool around a old bore brush dip it in some solvent and go to work on that lead. You will see the lead come out on the steel wool. Same way with the barrel.

 

[bountyhunter]

Originally posted by chief38:
LEWIS LEAD REMOVER!!

The stubborn black rings inside the cylinder tubes are not lead, they are flame broiled carbon heat fused to the surface of the metal. I have never found a solvent which will remove it without serious scrubbing. It's basically like what gets burned onto a BBQ grill.

BTW, if you ever do need to remove lead deposits soak in a 50-50 mix of vinegar and hydrogen peroxide and the lead will soften up like modeling clay and can be removed.

 

[gunman1960]

i have had the same problem. i think its lead,and carbon. the only thing that worked for me is the "LEWIS LEAD REMOVER". i tried everything written here,and nothing worked but LLR

 

[shawn mccarver]

Originally posted by Damn Yankee:
Wrap some 0000 steel wool around a old scrub brush and go to town. You will see the lead come right out.

You will also leave microscopic bits of steel from the steel wool in the charge holes resulting in rust.

 

[gcs71]

I used Hoppes lead cloth. Cut a small patch of the lead cloth and wrapped around a slighly undersized jag. Took some elbow grease but worked well and without the worries of scratches or rust.

 

[keppelj]

What you need is a stainless chamber brush, same spiral design as the bronze ones but stainless. It will remove the carbon buildup by working the brush in and out on a cleaning rod. You wont need the drill motor. I believe I got mine from Brownells

 

[szuppo]

Unless you are having ejection problems I wouldn't worry too much about it. I know we all like to get fanatical when it comes to cleaning our weapons but if it is not affecting function I leave it alone. Remove the lead, leave the scorched rings there, they will just come back again anyway. If you continually clean too aggressively after every shoot you will eventually open the chambers up and you don't want that.

 

[co-4]

I have found that if I let the solvent soak for about an hour it will come out a lot better. I also use a 45cal. brush on a drill. about three passes and it's clean..

 

[wjh2657]

I swab my cylinders in Hoppes #9 and let them sit for about two hours and then brush them out with a .40 cal brush. I've been doing this since new, so I probably have prevented any build up. As I fire nothing but .38 Spl in mine (snubbies) I have encountered no problems.

 

[tomcatt51]

It depends how many rounds you shoot between cleanings. Shoot few rounds (38's), then clean, and it takes a many sessions (and then trying to chamber .357's) to realize you're not getting your chambers clean. Think what you want but i've run a .375 bore brush spun by a drill motor thru my buddies (.38/.357) guns they thought were clean and surprised them with how much crud came out. My 617's don't get cleaned until rounds are difficult to chamber (several thousand rounds) or pre match. The only way to clean them without devoting ridiculous amounts of time is a brush spun by a drill motor. If you think pushing a brush thru by hand is enough, fine, doesn't seem to be if your round count is high.

 

[H Richard]

David Manson described what I use, and have had it for nearly 30 years. A Clymer "De-Leader" reamer. It is basically a chamber reamer with a stop that just fits the .357 chamber and turned slowly by hand 2 or 3 turns scrapes the build up out of the chamber. When I used to help teach a Sheriff's training program, we used it on every revolver that went through the course, and more than half would never chamber a .357 as they had been shot with hundreds of .38's and never properly cleaned.

 

[sar4937]

http://smith-wessonforum.com/e...570103904/m/58310237 Read about method about half way down the page.

 

[Shooter10]

This thread reminded me of way back when Ruger had first introduced their .357 Blackhawk, I found one in a pawn shop, with the barrel so leaded up from firing lead bullets, it looked like a dirty .30 caliber barrel. The price was right for a pistol that had only been out for less than two years, so I scraped up enough and bought it. Was stationed at the Army post, so went on post, managed to get several pistol cleaning rods, and a number of .45 brushes. By clamping the pistol rod in a bolted down machinist vice, then pushing hard, was able to get lots of large chunks of lead out. Destroyed several brushes, but ended up with a veyr clean, sharp bore. Still have that old Ruger, but do not shoot lead in it. Either jacketed hollow points, or gas checks on hand loads. No more leading problems either. I don't know for sure, but full power .357 seemed to be hotter back then than they seem today, maybe that is just a failure of memory on my part also.

 

[mark5pt56]

I use a SS .40 brush after a mixture of 1 part Kroil to 2 parts Shooters Choice.

I let it sit for 10-15 minutes and if works great. Matter of fact, I use this one all of my cleaning now and it saves alot of scrubbing.

 

[bassoneer]

I had the exact same problem and used a .40 S&W brush on a cordless drill to clean out the cylinder bores of a 686. Worked like a charm and DID NOT damage the gun at all. If you used a different material it might, but a bronze/brass brush inside the SS barrel should not have any effect, but it will get the crud out. Just spin it for about 10-15 seconds and check, then repeat as needed. Put some Shooter's Choice or Hoppes #9 solvent in there while spinning the brush. Good luck, B

 

[tomcatt51]

Originally posted by bassoneer:
a bronze/brass brush inside the SS barrel should not have any effect, but it will get the crud out.Good luck, B

Cleaning chambers/cylinder throats, the brush and drill motor is the way to go but I won't use it in the barrel. There you need to push the brush thru so it follows the rifleing.

 

[8emem]

I brush a liberal coat of Kroil on all outside and inside surfaces of the cylinder. Let it sit at least a couple of hours . The longer the better. Sometimes when I get home from the range I will just take off the cylinder, coat it, and leave it overnight. Then clean with whatever utensil you would ordinarily use. Kroil does a lot of the lifting and it results in much less brush work with much more grime removed, especially on the cylinder face.