I was reading a Lyman reloading book and came across some info on cleaning revolvers using a tool called the Lewis Lead Remover. Internet showed Brownell's has a Lewis Lead Remover kit for sale around $18. YouTube also as some pretty straight forward videos on how to use it. I've never felt real confident that I was getting all the lead out of the forcing cone area of my revolvers using traditional methods. This looks like a good solution. Please comment if you have any experience with this product.
Cleaning the forcing cone.
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Electraclyde
Member
I have been using one for about 10 years. I do not use it every time I clean but when I do use it I am always surprised at the lead that I get out. Works very well.
Protocall_Design
Member
It will also get the lead out of the barrel. Very good tool.
The Norseman
Member
May the Force be with you
Lewis Lead Remover Brass Screen System will remove
all Residue/Lead from the Revovler Forcing Core.
I use my LLR every so often, not every cleaning, only when
the Forcing Cone looks like it needs cleaning.
I also use an Oversize Brass Bore Brush. I snip them off
so that they will fit in the Revolver Cylinder Window, as such
so when Cleaning Rod is put through the Bore, the Sniped off
Bore Brush can be carefully screwed on, and rotated on the
Forcing Cone. Carefully rotate until Forcing Cone is Clean.
Snipped off Bore Brush really works good on my 22lr Revolvers.
What works the best to snip off the excess Bore Bristles is the
Demel Abrasive Wheel.
The Best to you and your Endeavors.
Lewis Lead Remover Brass Screen System will remove
all Residue/Lead from the Revovler Forcing Core.
I use my LLR every so often, not every cleaning, only when
the Forcing Cone looks like it needs cleaning.
I also use an Oversize Brass Bore Brush. I snip them off
so that they will fit in the Revolver Cylinder Window, as such
so when Cleaning Rod is put through the Bore, the Sniped off
Bore Brush can be carefully screwed on, and rotated on the
Forcing Cone. Carefully rotate until Forcing Cone is Clean.
Snipped off Bore Brush really works good on my 22lr Revolvers.
What works the best to snip off the excess Bore Bristles is the
Demel Abrasive Wheel.
The Best to you and your Endeavors.
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just plain joe
Member
I think you will be hard-pressed to find any negative comments about the Lewis Lead Remover. I've used mine since the early 80's. It is important to follow the directions. Don't swab the bore with solvent and then use the LLR. It works best on a "dry" bore, at least for me. The cone-shaped tool makes short work of cleaning the forcing cone area.
As an aside, I have also used "Chore-Boy" (copper-based) wrapped around a bore brush to remove lead.
I have found that the LLR is very good at removing the lead/carbon "ring" that builds up inside the cylinder at the point where the bullet separates from the case mouth.
Good luck.
JPJ
As an aside, I have also used "Chore-Boy" (copper-based) wrapped around a bore brush to remove lead.
I have found that the LLR is very good at removing the lead/carbon "ring" that builds up inside the cylinder at the point where the bullet separates from the case mouth.
Good luck.
JPJ
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dfariswheel
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All the old time revolver shooters owned and Lewis kit.
Even if you only shoot jacketed bullets you should still use the Lewis, since it also cleans carbon and copper fouling off the forcing cone.
One suspected cause of the cracked "K" frame forcing cones was most cracked guns had bad buildup of carbon and copper on the cone.
As good as the Lewis tool is, a better/faster option for cleaning the chambers are Brownell's bronze chamber brushes.
NEVER use stainless steel bore or chamber brushes, these are for guns so badly neglected you have nothing to loose.
Even if you only shoot jacketed bullets you should still use the Lewis, since it also cleans carbon and copper fouling off the forcing cone.
One suspected cause of the cracked "K" frame forcing cones was most cracked guns had bad buildup of carbon and copper on the cone.
As good as the Lewis tool is, a better/faster option for cleaning the chambers are Brownell's bronze chamber brushes.
NEVER use stainless steel bore or chamber brushes, these are for guns so badly neglected you have nothing to loose.
Scharfschuetzer
Member
Lewis Lead Remover
I think that I even beat Andy for years of use. Great tool if a cast bullet load doesn't work out and ends up leading.
I think that I even beat Andy for years of use. Great tool if a cast bullet load doesn't work out and ends up leading.
LRL
I have had a Lewis Lead Remover for ~40 years. Very good tool. Don't use it often but when you need it makes job easy & quick/
I have had a Lewis Lead Remover for ~40 years. Very good tool. Don't use it often but when you need it makes job easy & quick/
It is an excellent product. I have used it for years, though I do find the method spoken to by The Norseman above is also very effective.
Simson-Suhl
US Veteran
1960, right out of the Navy, first center fire revolver ever purchased, Colt Single Action Army, caliber 45 Colt. Second item, one box of 45 Colt ammunition, third item, Outers Pistol cleaning kit. After the firing of 50 rounds of Winchester 45 Colt, the next item was the ordering of the Lewis Kit. Still have two today, one in 45 and one in 38/357. They work!
Trooper224
Member
I now use Chore-Boy for barrel cleaning, but I still use the forcing cone attachment for the intended purpose. Great little tool.
minconrevo
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I've owned a Lewis kit in various calibers for perhaps 40 years; excellent product. I've used it on enough revolvers to need to buy replacement brass screen kits. The Lewis is my go-to for cleaning forcing cones and bores. For cylinders I use a specialty SS brush sold by Brownell's. The one for .38 bores is a .375 diameter. These SS bristles are soft enough to not damage the revolver metal. The brush is intended for cylinders only, not for bores. I would not suggest using just any SS brush on firearms.
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Been using the LLR for 41 years - always works quickly, efficiently and causes zero harm! If you shoot lead - get and use a LLR! I've got a few of them - one in my work shop, one in my Range Bag and another as a back-up (or loaner for friends).
Lewis lead remover kits are a must but there is a better way. When I was in the business all my action jobs Not only got a re-cut 11° cone but then I lapped them smooth and polished time with a felt bob. These cones were easier on lead bullets and the bullets were so happy they hardly ever left skid marks
Rick
Rick
