Cold bluing?

[Redcoat3340]

What's the story on cold bluing?

I've got a 3904 that shows a bunch of wear and I was thinking of having it cerakoted. But it's not really in such bad shape that I think it needs to have that done; and I have no problem with it showing honest wear....battle scars if you will.

But I'm wondering about some touch up where it's down to bright metal.

I see two products that seem to be most popular:
Brownell's Oxpho Blue Pro in either liquid or gel and Birchwood Casey PCP Gunblue.

I've read a bunch of google stuff about getting metal degreased and sealing it afterward....but looking for some real world experience.

How well will it blend with S&W bluing? hard to do? Worth the effort? Anything else?

Here's a couple of pics that make the gun look a bit better than it really is...but you can clearly see the bright metal.

 

[arjay]

It doesn't really match.Id leave it or ceracoat it.

 

[Redcoat3340]

BIG OOPS. As everyone will immediately see, the pic with the red background is of my 39-2 not the 3904. I hit the wrong key, probably because I was hitting the correct single malt. Here's another pic.

 

[Biggfoot44]

I'll go the other way. It doesn't look bad as is , but if you wish , by all means try some cold blue.

Rather than the Oxpho Blue , I prefer the Brownell's T-4 . Almost as durable , but gives more even coloring over larger surfaces.

 

[Fishinfool]

I once used cold blue to do an entire rifle (an old military Mauser) that came out pretty decent. Metal prep is key, along with lots of carding and re-application of blue. Don't remember the exact product now, but I think it was BC 44/40 blue.

On touchups, it usually is not and exact match, but sometimes close.

Cold blue will not work properly on aluminum - such as your pistols frame. Tried it once on a Ruger single six aluminum grip frame that was finish worn. Just ended up polishing off all the remaining finish, and leaving it a two tone gun. Didn't look bad.

Larry

 

[DWalt]

Different steel alloys and different bluing brands produce different results. I use Brownell's Oypho Blue, generally OK. I have a gunsmith friend who swears by 44/40 as being the best cold blue. I also have blued complete guns using cold blue. Results are fair, but no one would mistake it for a hot blue.

 

[PeeShooter]

I've used cold blue to touch up wear with great results, what tends to happen is as the wear feathers to bare metal so does the cold blue feather as it works. So it really comes out fine unless you have real high expectations and should have the gun reblued.

 

[Warren Sear]

I think the gun looks great as it is. i would not mess with the finish.

 

[gwpercle]

Follow the directions, most important is totally de greased and super clean metal. Even the steel wool needs to be de greased and don't touch the metal with a finger. Hair dryer heat helps and two , three or four coats my be needed to get a close match.
Give it a try it will not damage the gun.
Gary

 

[glowe]

I have done lots with Oxpho-Blue and you do not need to use it in a clean room environment. I have actually tested metals with a visible coating of oil and the bluing drives right through the oil. I just wipe off excess oil with a clean rag and go to work and that is what is great about this product. It is also a cream that allows for easy application and if left on, will not rust the metal. The use of these types of blues generally will not touch or discolor the existing finishes, so can be applied without concern of overlapping onto other blued surfaces.