Colt 1917 Questions (6 pics)

You're right about the sanding belt look. The factorys made great use of flat belt/slack belt polishing techniques along with contoured hard polishing wheels formed for specific parts of the guns.

Those marks behind the front sight (and those to the side) are often called 'feather' by the polishers and were the first cuts to be done to remove any braze from the front sight blade installation. Lengthwise polishing cuts are taken at the breech end radius also to begin.
Then the Colt barrels were spin polished,, being carefully held by hand and started and stopped against a belt or hard wheel especially around that front sight to avoid hitting it. Starting with a rough grit to remove the machining marks and going up to whatever grit/polish the bosses say.

Each grit required a different polishing machine setup with it's own balanced wheel/belt. Once set up, they usually stayed set up if it was for a common product.
The polishing rooms were one of the largest areas in production finishing.

The 'feather' polish lines remain around the front sight when the polishing is done. The better the polisher (and the more time he is allowed), the better the blend in that area. Something collectors look for to spot a redone gun,,especially on SAAs where the same polishing techniques (same polishers!)were used.

The commercial/ peace time finish was taken to a very high degree/grit. The wartime polish was not in order to save time and labor.

The wire wheel technique on War time production was used after the less than brilliant final polish to simply blend the polish a bit and deburr the parts.

It gave a little of a matted look to the parts but nothing like a particle blast will do. The polish and grit lines of the belts and grit wheels still show through.
Usually done with oil on the parts,, a wire wheel polish does a nice job of finishing off a less than bright shine. Factorys often refered to it as burnishing.

The Parkerized guns often got a sand blast and/or a heavy, dry wire wheel on some of the parts to make a better surface prep for that finish.

A dry wire wheel will give a different look to polished metal than one gone over with oil on it. Speed of the wheel, wire size, wheel dia. and pressure applied all have a say in the final look.

Wartime production being what it was, quick and dirty for lack of a better term,,the guns will show differences in finish from one lot to the next.
 
Would parkerizing this pistol lower the value?

If the gun was worn but had all original stampings, it would lower the value. If it has already been refinished, it would have little "collector value" and another refinish would not change that. Many of the WW I surplus 1917s (both Colt and S & W) were Parkerized in the course of service into WW II, but these will usually have an arsenal rework stamping indicating this.
 
Alan,
It has not been parkerized and the orginal bluing is still somewhat present. Gunsmith stated it was in very good condition. I just answered my own question with your input.
 
I have picked up two Colt 1917s since this thread first appeared, both of them pretty nice and the last one an almost-new steal at an auction price about half of what it should have been. It's interesting to look at the brush and polish marks on the gun and interpret them in line with the comments in this thread. That is truly a coarse finish on those guns.

But back to the original issue... Dave, did you ever buy that gun? Or find a better one later? Inquiring minds want to know!
 
I'd go for this gun myself for $400. I believe it's original finish and the finish is just worn or maybe someone tried to clean up some areas with steel wool. The U.S. marking are present and I'm not at home with access to my reference book on WW2 handguns to comment on the missing rearing pony or even look at my example. BTW, all WW1 Colt 1917s were blued as other have said and the screws have been touched with a screwdriver but not badly.
 

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Interesting obseervations on these ole 1917 Colts. Does anyone own or have seen any of the early production with the proverbial 'charge holes'; chambers without a shoulder in it to keep ACP rounds from falling thru when used without 1/2 moon clips?

The 1917 Colt illustrated in this copyrighted article I wrote for Dillon's Blue Press catalog/magazine is one of the early ones with the bored-through chambers. It belongs to me. Gotta use clips to fire .45 ACP ammo in it, although .45 Auto Rims work fine.

John

1917COLTARTICLE-SMALL.jpg


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Here's mine. It's pretty, but doesn't shoot worth anything. It was a gift from my aunt's boyfriend, an ex-Chicago cop. He took it off of a Mexican criminal back in the '60s. He told me it was an M1917, but by all indications, it's a commercial New Service.

As I said, it's an AWFUL shooter, but this is likely because it was probably converted from .45 Colt to .45acp down in Mexico somewhere. There seems to be nothing wrong with the bore or cylinder.

I could buy a whole new refinished gun for what a cylinder would likely cost me, plus the labor, plus refinishing the gun or the cylinder. As an alternative, I plan (now that I've got a job) to order some .454 or .455 230gr. LRN bullets from Penn and load them in .45acp (or better, .45 Auto Rim) cases to see if it shoots better.

New_Service_Full_L.jpg
 
Cmort, you just may get a big surprise if you play with that gun and find the right bullet! It looks TOO good to not have been refinished! Is it possible it`s all original? I have had them converted from 45 acp to colt, but not vice versa. What have you got there? I know those are J. scott grips. I think that gun has real possibilites!
 
Cmort, you just may get a big surprise if you play with that gun and find the right bullet! It looks TOO good to not have been refinished! Is it possible it`s all original? I have had them converted from 45 acp to colt, but not vice versa. What have you got there? I know those are J. scott grips. I think that gun has real possibilites!
I'm virtually certain it was refinished. The markings aren't terrible, but they're not as crisp as you'd expect from original finish.

I think the odds of it being all original are slim at best. I added the lanyard loop myself, which was missing.

I've tried factory ball as well as 200gr. LSWC bullseye handloads. It keyholes regardless. With its more than serviceable bore, that screams "oversized". Back in those days, unlike today, .45 Colt and .45acp had significantly different bore diameters.

Other than the VERY slight possibility of the 225gr. full wadcutters I got from Penn years ago, I don't foresee decent accuracy from ANY .452 bullet. I think my best (and only economical) course of action is to try the .454s or .455s. Work or not, that's the end of the line. After that, I'll just look for a shooter grade M1917 or another S&W M1917. (I had one back in the '80s, a great gun I wish I still had.)
 
Is the barrel marked 45 colt or 45 acp? Try getting some auto rim cases with .454 bullets. The .454s wont be easy to find but you can order them. If the gun has been altered to acp you can try to find a 45 colt clyinder. Probley hard, but shouldnt be impossible. Years back I converted a s&w 1917 to 45 colt in a way they were convertable. I found a brand new unfired clyinder in .455 from I think sherwood when they were in san fernando valley. My gunsmith also fitted up a extra crane so I could use either clyinder by just the one screw. It worked very well. This was back in the early 70s though. I even had a red ramp and s&w adjustable rear sight put on it. Looked factory! Sure would like to find that gun again! I am not sure how colt marked their caliber, maybe it was just ".45" for both?
 
Is the barrel marked 45 colt or 45 acp? Try getting some auto rim cases with .454 bullets. The .454s wont be easy to find but you can order them. If the gun has been altered to acp you can try to find a 45 colt clyinder. Probley hard, but shouldnt be impossible. Years back I converted a s&w 1917 to 45 colt in a way they were convertable. I found a brand new unfired clyinder in .455 from I think sherwood when they were in san fernando valley. My gunsmith also fitted up a extra crane so I could use either clyinder by just the one screw. It worked very well. This was back in the early 70s though. I even had a red ramp and s&w adjustable rear sight put on it. Looked factory! Sure would like to find that gun again! I am not sure how colt marked their caliber, maybe it was just ".45" for both?
I've been trying to find a replacement cylinder for years. The only people who have them want the price of a decent M1911 for one.

I'm definitely going to see if Penn has some .454 or .455 bullets. They used to advertise them, but I'm sure they're special order and he's ALWAYS backordered, even on regular items.
 
But back to the original issue... Dave, did you ever buy that gun? Or find a better one later? Inquiring minds want to know!

DC,

No I didn't buy that gun, but if memory server correct, that gun was purchased by a forum member and chopped and refinished.

After spending more time looking that the Colt 1917s, I think I would rather spend the money on an S&W
 
I have a Colt 1917 with the straight through chambers. I just use AR brass in it. I think mine is refinished, it has a blue hammer and trigger, and that makes me think it's refinished. I've noticed commercial New Services with, I think, a blued trigger, but not hammer, isn't that right?
 
Hi, This has been an interesting thread in light of the fact that I'm working on a trade for a Colt 1917. It is really minty and looks to have the correct U.S. markings and smooth grips. It has a low ser. # 11,xxx. Is there somewhere I can look for a dob? Are these guns still safe to shoot with todays ammo?
Interesting in that the Colt pony has not been applied to this gun either. The wire brush marks are very obvious on the frame as well as the barrel. it has a strong blue and it hardly looks like it was even holstered very much with only a very small amount of muzzle end and cylinder wear. I think it will look good alongside my Army Spcl.
 
clipper1, are you referring to your gun's Service Number as 11XXX? That's the number on the butt. If so it was built late 1917. Should have the bored through chambers with no shoulders.

I can find no references on the lack of the rearing pony on the sides though. Mine has one. Various and different acceptance marks are on them also. Yours should have the GHS in a circle.
 

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