Common issues in new 629s

Wfevans4

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Didn’t have much luck today at a gun show, so I may just buy a new 629 4”. Are there any common issues I should be on the lookout for on the new guns? I’ve heard of people complaining about the finish and canted barrels coming from the factory. What else?
 
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Look for issues with proper fitting, such as a barrel that is canted, poor crane to frame fit with the cylinder closed, excessive barrel-cylinder gap and end shake, proper cylinder timing, and an action that operates smoothly. At least with stainless steel you don't have to worry with uneven bluing or bluing that turns purple when exposed to solvents that contain ammonia.
 
There have been a few cases documented on the forum of forcing cones being in horrendously rough condition from the factory. Also check the other end as well to make sure the muzzle has no cosmetic defects that might also impact accuracy.

Just know that you are the final QC process here, so be thorough and methodical.
 
What to look for when contemplating a new S&W 44……..

Look for a guy with an Anaconda for sale.

Yea, but man does the single action pull suck! I picked up a new 3 inch Python in October and it took A LOT of dry fire to get it just below 5 lbs. the new Anaconda 4 inch I’ve been looking at also has a horrendous single action. Otherwise the fit and finish is superior to new Smiths.

I am torn between a 29 full lug and an Anaconda at the moment….
 
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I couldn’t agree more on your assessment of the SA trigger pull of the new Anaconda and Python. All mine have been tuned by a gunsmith. (You have to wonder about the “influencers” that claim it has a crisp trigger pull. Cuz that simply is not so) Once the SA trigger has been rectified, you’ll have one of the finest revolvers ever made, anywhere. Three of my tuned guns have a 3 pound SA trigger break, the last one, a four inch Anaconda has a 2.5 pull. No movement whatsoever.

The new Colts: No 2 piece barrel, no goofy lock. I think no MIM parts, but don’t quote me on that. They’re Extremely accurate. The finish is so slick and smooth, they’re easy to get all the powder burns off, making the gun look unfired. And yes, the new Colts are a bit more expensive. No more so than a really nice Old Smith. But they are much nicer that what Smith is making nowadays.
If Smith would up their quality, I’d buy a new Smith. Until then, I buy old Smiths and new Colts.
 
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The hammer and triggers on the new Python (and probably Anaconda) are forged, but some of the other internals are MIM. Unlike S&W, Colt uses a MIM process that results in uniform hardness instead of a soft core (though the hardened layer on S&W MIM triggers and hammers is thicker than the case hardened layer of the punched hammers and triggers that MIM replaced for S&W).

The 2 examples of new Pythons that I handled had beautiful polishing compared to S&W, but I didn't care for the DA feel. It was light, but felt gummy, for lack of a better word, towards the break. The one that had more trigger pulls had less of the feel, so maybe it goes away in time.
 
Comparing the S&W trigger action to that of a Colt is truly an apples to oranges comparison. The two have vastly different lock work designs. S&W's typically have a heavier double action, but one that can more easily be staged by the shooter, and a light and crisp single action. Colt's tend to have a lighter double action, but difficult to really stage or even sense when the break will occur, and a single action that leaves something to be desired.
 
About the new Anaconda and Python . Yes the finish is superb compared to new Smiths but the Colts seem to be prone to bad end shake right out of the box . I’ve looked at over a dozen new Pythons and Anaconda’s in the last 2 years and all but one had bad end shake . Bad as in the front of the cylinder would hit the barrel shank when pushed forward and the cylinder would have to be held to the rear when closing or it would again hit the barrel shank .
Like new Smiths you need to inspect in person. Don’t buy sight unseen.
 
OP inspect in person if you can before you buy . I recently bought a new 29 that was made this year . Timing is spot on. Barrel is screwed on straight.
Cylinder throats are all the correct diameter. Grips fit like a pair of custom made grips but are a little skinny for me.
Yeah the bluing isn’t like a 1974 model 29 but still nice . I bought the gun to shoot so the wood box is nice but useless to me .
The only thing I can ding it on is both trigger pulls are heavy .
 
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Since the '60s I've owned my share of N-Frames. I don't have a recent production example, but handled an N-Frame owned by an acquaintance a couple years ago. Yes, it had the lock and MIM internals. But nicely finished, no obvious flaws, and a very smooth action.

FWIW, I've now owned a S&W or two with the much maligned MIM internals. As received, these revolvers have had a smoother double action than many of my '60s - '80s examples. I don't like the "idea" of MIM, but have never had a MIM part cause an issue in any of the S&Ws or other manufacturer's guns I've had....
 
I’ve put a .0015 feeler gauge between the cylinder and barrel of all 4 of my new Colts. Then I push forward on the cylinder. I can pull the feeler gauge out. I’ve never seen a drag mark on the front of the cylinder of any of my new Colts. I’ve tried. I can’t get the cylinder on any of my new Colts to come in contact with the barrel. They all have very tight B/C gaps, tho. (And they all produce high velocities for their barrel length)

I’ll send an email to my gunsmith. He’s worked on thousands of the new Colts. He will provide the definitive answer. Until then, I’ll go with what I’ve seen. No excessive endshake.

*Not my best work. But I’ll take it.
 

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I’ve put a .0015 feeler gauge between the cylinder and barrel of all 4 of my new Colts. Then I push forward on the cylinder. I can pull the feeler gauge out. I’ve never seen a drag mark on the front of the cylinder of any of my new Colts. I’ve tried. I can’t get the cylinder on any of my new Colts to come in contact with the barrel. They all have very tight B/C gaps, tho. (And they all produce high velocities for their barrel length)

I’ll send an email to my gunsmith. He’s worked on thousands of the new Colts. He will provide the definitive answer. Until then, I’ll go with what I’ve seen. No excessive endshake.

*Not my best work. But I’ll take it.

I only have one new Colt, a 3 inch Python. Other than the less than awesome single action, it’s very good. And it gets almost the same velocity as my 4 inch 586. The double action is buttery smooth.
 
Since the '60s I've owned my share of N-Frames. I don't have a recent production example, but handled an N-Frame owned by an acquaintance a couple years ago. Yes, it had the lock and MIM internals. But nicely finished, no obvious flaws, and a very smooth action.

FWIW, I've now owned a S&W or two with the much maligned MIM internals. As received, these revolvers have had a smoother double action than many of my '60s - '80s examples. I don't like the "idea" of MIM, but have never had a MIM part cause an issue in any of the S&Ws or other manufacturer's guns I've had....
MIM can be a poor choice for certain applications/shapes, which people generalize to all applications. Many are also under the mistaken impression that S&W revolvers were using all forged internals until the MIM transition (S&W triggers and hammers hadn't been routinely forged for almost 40 years at that point).

FWIW, I've got a 10-6 heavy barrel and a 64-7 heavy barrel. I think that the 10-6 belonged to the rare cop who dry fired like a maniac but didn't do much live fire. It had a lot of holster wear and a broken DA sear pin, but a really clean bore when I got it.

The 64-7 was some trade-in, probably belonging to a security or armored car company (had a number paint markered on to the bottom of the grip.

The 10-6 has a better SA trigger, but I prefer the feel of the 64-7's DA pull.

I cleaned up a Model 60 no-dash for a guy, and it had an atrocious DA pull that didn't really get better afterwards. Making that one nice would probably require a gunsmith, not the parts swapper/polisher that I am.
 
I received correspondence from my Gunsmith regarding the supposed excessive endshake of which Nick refers. The short answer is No.

Gunsmith has tuned over 4000 Pythons and Anacondas, plus around 1500 of the small frame Cobra, King Cobra, Viper family.
Less than 10 of them had excessive endshake.

Honestly, the statement of the new Colts having excessive endshake never passed the smell test. That was the first I’d ever heard about an endshake issue, and I’ve read everything l could get my hands on about the new Colts. I’ve had extensive conversations with my gunsmith friend on the New Colts and the amazing tolerances to which they are held. I own 4 of them. One the SA trigger pull is rectified, they’re better than anything Smith has ever made. The Colts are built on better machinery with better materials.

My 3 inch Python gives me similar and sometimes faster velocities than my old 6 inch 686. That’s the Garmin talking, not me.
 
I have a newer one. My forcing cone looks a little rough from the factory. Like it was cut with a dull cutter.

It shoots great though.
 

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