AND----speaking of CorrosionX, it plays a role in what's become known as "Ralph's Bath"----a routine applied to each and every beat-up, nasty old S&W that came to live here.
Goes like this: Step One: The gun comes apart----ALL apart---not counting barrels and action studs. Everything gets soaked in Mineral Spirits for 2-3 days---or until I get back to it. Then it gets scrubbed to within an inch of its life---including the screw holes(!!), rinsed with CLEAN Mineral Spirits, and blown dry with DRY, high pressure compressed air (125 psi line pressure). Then all the pieces get hosed down with CorrosionX, and left to sit for 2-3 days----or until I get back to it. Everything then gets blasted with this DRY, high pressure compressed air again to remove as much of the CorrosionX as will come off. Then the pieces get stuffed back together into a gun, and the exterior gets washed down with Hoppes #9 to remove all the remaining CorrosionX----dried and polished with a soft cloth------'cause there's NOTHING that looks worse than a gorgeous blue finish with oil on it!!!!! Then the gun goes on a shelf in the display cabinet. As another aside, there were guns sitting in that cabinet for the better part of 30 years with no further attention than getting the dust vacuumed off about twice a year----'cause the cabinet wasn't air tight----and there was nary a problem with ANYTHING----NO corrosion---NO sludge----No nothing!! OH!!--and by the way, there was NO lubrication of anything, because CorrosionX has enough lubrication qualities to suffice----even for guns that are used for guns.
And as an aside, not counting CorrosionX, entirely adequate lubrication of a S&W hand ejector revolver action is obtained with ONE drop of oil on the hammer stud--ONE drop on the trigger stud, ONE drop under, and ONE drop on the back of the recoil slide. Those with some sort of obsessive compulsive disorder put a half a drop on the cylinder stop stud. You can use more---it's good for holding on to dirt.
Ralph Tremaine
OH!-----lead removed from the barrel/cylinder chambers: That's actually Step One of the bath: Go to the Notable Thread Index in the early hand ejector section. Go to the "lead in barrel" thread. Do what you're told to do. You end up with squeaky clean barrels and chambers----with no fuss, no muss, and no bother!!----with this proviso: First---DRY THE BORES!!!!
Goes like this: Step One: The gun comes apart----ALL apart---not counting barrels and action studs. Everything gets soaked in Mineral Spirits for 2-3 days---or until I get back to it. Then it gets scrubbed to within an inch of its life---including the screw holes(!!), rinsed with CLEAN Mineral Spirits, and blown dry with DRY, high pressure compressed air (125 psi line pressure). Then all the pieces get hosed down with CorrosionX, and left to sit for 2-3 days----or until I get back to it. Everything then gets blasted with this DRY, high pressure compressed air again to remove as much of the CorrosionX as will come off. Then the pieces get stuffed back together into a gun, and the exterior gets washed down with Hoppes #9 to remove all the remaining CorrosionX----dried and polished with a soft cloth------'cause there's NOTHING that looks worse than a gorgeous blue finish with oil on it!!!!! Then the gun goes on a shelf in the display cabinet. As another aside, there were guns sitting in that cabinet for the better part of 30 years with no further attention than getting the dust vacuumed off about twice a year----'cause the cabinet wasn't air tight----and there was nary a problem with ANYTHING----NO corrosion---NO sludge----No nothing!! OH!!--and by the way, there was NO lubrication of anything, because CorrosionX has enough lubrication qualities to suffice----even for guns that are used for guns.
And as an aside, not counting CorrosionX, entirely adequate lubrication of a S&W hand ejector revolver action is obtained with ONE drop of oil on the hammer stud--ONE drop on the trigger stud, ONE drop under, and ONE drop on the back of the recoil slide. Those with some sort of obsessive compulsive disorder put a half a drop on the cylinder stop stud. You can use more---it's good for holding on to dirt.
Ralph Tremaine
OH!-----lead removed from the barrel/cylinder chambers: That's actually Step One of the bath: Go to the Notable Thread Index in the early hand ejector section. Go to the "lead in barrel" thread. Do what you're told to do. You end up with squeaky clean barrels and chambers----with no fuss, no muss, and no bother!!----with this proviso: First---DRY THE BORES!!!!
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