Correctly Removing a Pin

jmiles1960

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I do a fair amount of work on my N and K frame guns, but honestly have not removed any pins.

Today, I am swapping the sear to a Target Hammer on a N-frame gun. The pin retaining the sear has a round end and a flat end.

I was not sure which end is correct to strike with my punch for removal.

I prefer to do it right, rather than guessing. Thanks for the advice and help.
 
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I have removed and installed a lot of hammer pins in the past but I honestly have not noticed that one end was flat. It's a straight through hole, unless one side happens to be staked (however I have never seen one that was staked).
 
I would not think it matters. I believe it's tapped/pressed into a tight fit. If it was upset to hold in the hammer the flat end is the most upset, so tapping on the opposite (rounded) head would likely be the easiest. Supporting the side away from the punch and driving into into something really hard like a small nut should encourage the pin to come out.
 
Thanks guys. One end definitely has somewhat of a rounded end and the other end is flat. I wasn't sure if it mattered which end to strike either. I read the pin is not tapered. I am using an armor's bench block to hold the hammer during removal of the sear / pin.
 
The S&W armorer's tool assortment contains several "cup-tipped" punches. Although not essential, these are the best for removing a crowned pin like the one you describe that is used in the hammer for the sear. These punches are designed to be used exclusively on crowned pins, so that the end of the pin is not cosmetically damaged. This doesn't really matter on your particular pin because of it's location. Any good quality, correct size punch will get the job done.

BROWNELLS CUP TIP PUNCHES | Brownells

The flat side of the pin is not in the design....so the flat end of the pin was probably the result of being filed off or stoned off when it was installed because it was protruding from the side of the hammer slightly. The ends of the pin must be flush or just below the surface of the hammer so they don't drag after installation.

If you have a suitable punch that fits the opening you can drive the pin out in either direction. The easiest direction would be to strike the crowned end of the pin. The pin doesn't have to come all the way out, just far enough to clear the sear.
 
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The pin doesn't have to come all the way out, just far enough to clear the sear.

Trying to start one of those pins back in is, ah, interesting. The only way I've been able to do so with no fuss involves a set of tweezers and an arbor press. Try very hard not to drive the pin all the way out.
 
Trying to start one of those pins back in is, ah, interesting. The only way I've been able to do so with no fuss involves a set of tweezers and an arbor press. Try very hard not to drive the pin all the way out.


There's a set of punches with holes of different diameters in the end to help install pins. They work very well.
 
There's a set of punches with holes of different diameters in the end to help install pins. They work very well.

Yeah, but since I don't mess with those itty bitty parts much, not really cost effective. I've got a couple for pin sizes I do deal with with some frequency.
 
Yeah, but since I don't mess with those itty bitty parts much, not really cost effective. I've got a couple for pin sizes I do deal with with some frequency.

Do you know anyone who builds AR’s? Chances are they have a set of roll pin starter punches in their tool box, real time saver when putting in the bolt catch, about $32 a set at Brownell’s.
 
Keep this in mind, at the factory, with the barrel facing away from you, pins are most usually installed from right to left, removed left to right.
Does it make a difference? I do not know, but whenever I remove a pin, I keep it's orientation the exact same way I took it out. Then put it back in the reverse way it was uninstalled.
 

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