cowboy4evr
Member
Well , I have heard that Charter Arms has great customer service . I have no personal knowledge , only the countless comments that I have read . Regards Paul
Couple of questions from revolver newbie (model 625-8JM)
- Thread starter joonrhee
- Start date
Pizza Bob
Member
Has anybody wondered if the moon clips might be the problem? How did he load the moons and how did he extract the empty cases. A damaged moon would act similar to debris under the extractor.
Adios,
Pizza Bob
Adios,
Pizza Bob
Hi, I don't believe it was moon clips.. As I've previously mentioned, it was doing that while dry shooting without moon clips. And I was using the BMT demooner. What a great tool!
As of now, I still haven't sent it to SW. And don't plan to for the moment. I've been dry firing everyday and I simply can't replicate the issue I was having a single time. So, until I take it to range for another session and see same issue again, I think I'd like to stick to what I have right now.
BTW, I well received your email about moon clips. I already have the BMT tool and absolutely love it.
Last weekend, I took it out to range and shot 100 rounds. It was flawless except 2 misfires. Is misfiring somewhat common? It was twice in one cylinder. It fired, then misfired, then fired, fired, misfired, then fired, fired, and fired. It eventually all fired and didn't get stuck like my first time. I don't know what was the cause but it except for these 2 misfires, all other 98 rounds were perfect. I even shot better than my first time out. There is no reason for concern here right?
And do you guys always take apart the cylinder (not the extractor rod assembly) by unscrewing the right side, when cleaning it? I personally think it's more effective cleaning while cylinder is out, but just wanted to know if this is normal cleaning or do you just clean it without popping out the cylinder? I'm not loosening anything by taking out the cylinder every time cleaning it right?
Thanks again in advance for your inputs!
And do you guys always take apart the cylinder (not the extractor rod assembly) by unscrewing the right side, when cleaning it? I personally think it's more effective cleaning while cylinder is out, but just wanted to know if this is normal cleaning or do you just clean it without popping out the cylinder? I'm not loosening anything by taking out the cylinder every time cleaning it right?
Thanks again in advance for your inputs!
Just speaking personally, I only remove the cylinder occasionally to clean it. I feel that a good scrubbing with brushes and patches does well enough for between session cleanings, but that's just me - others might be a bit more rigorous in their methods.
I hope your 625 has cured itself of whatever the glitch was, and that you continue to enjoy it. Not sure what to make of the misfires - have you checked your strain screw (on the front of the grip frame, under the grip)? It should be tight. Just a thought. I love my -6, and hope yours treats you as well.
I hope your 625 has cured itself of whatever the glitch was, and that you continue to enjoy it. Not sure what to make of the misfires - have you checked your strain screw (on the front of the grip frame, under the grip)? It should be tight. Just a thought. I love my -6, and hope yours treats you as well.
Thanks for your feedback! I'll be sure to check if strain screw is tight.
I would not take the cylinder off the frame very often. The same with disassembling the extractor rod. It is rarely necessary. Clean the cylinder and the extractor star/rod while still attached to the frame. You'll figure out a rhythm.
Of course that is just my opinion!
Ed
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I would not take the cylinder off the frame very often. The same with disassembling the extractor rod. It is rarely necessary. Clean the cylinder and the extractor star/rod while still attached to the frame. You'll figure out a rhythm.
Of course that is just my opinion!
Ed
Thanks for your feedback!
dirty powder!!??
The next time the cylinder becomes difficult to rotate, STOP. Open the cylinder and gently see if any cases are pushed back away from the rear of the cylinder. To do this just use a little pressure with your finger to push in every case. Firing will cause cases, fired and unfired to be pushed rearward causing friction against the recoil plate (where the firing pin resides) during rotation. Crud build up in the cylinders can cause stuck cases!
If you are shooting reloads or promotional ammo (white box!) may be the source of the problem due to "dirty" powder!
All the best,
The next time the cylinder becomes difficult to rotate, STOP. Open the cylinder and gently see if any cases are pushed back away from the rear of the cylinder. To do this just use a little pressure with your finger to push in every case. Firing will cause cases, fired and unfired to be pushed rearward causing friction against the recoil plate (where the firing pin resides) during rotation. Crud build up in the cylinders can cause stuck cases!
If you are shooting reloads or promotional ammo (white box!) may be the source of the problem due to "dirty" powder!
All the best,
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It actually rotated fine.. It's just that it skipped firing twice (not consecutively but twice within that same 6 rounds), then the next trigger, it shoots. Then, when it came back to that skipped shot, it fired. So basically, I just kept firing with 2 misfires in the middle..
And as for ammo, I have only used PMC brand new ammo so hope they are not dirty..
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