Cracked 63-5 J-Frame

Atari1977

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So I got a S&W 63-5 about a month ago, and as far as shooting it have really liked it and have put about 1000 rounds through it so far. Was cleaning it though and noticed it had developed a crack on the flat under where the barrel screws in.

I didn't think that was really possible with 22lr, unless maybe some bubba has worked out a ++P 22lr pissin hawt loading. Saw that it has happened though with aluminum frames due to the barrel being overtorqued. So I don't really see how this is anything but a manufacturing defect.

Sent it back to S&W, they're saying twelve weeks right now which is pretty upsetting to hear that they apparently need it for the three times of the amount of time I actually had it to get around to sending me a replacement.

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Frame forging must have been defective. Good luck. My NIB 36-10 was obviously defective out of the wrapper, returned for service, and came back to me "repaired" but as obviously defective as before.

S&W has some serious problems.
 
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Welcome and sorry for your troubles. A crack in that region on a steel frame is highly unusual. Hopefully the factory will just give you a new replacement gun.
 
When S&W discontinued "pinned" barrels, they changed the barrel-to-frame threading to what they call a crush fit. For large bore revolvers, the result is a slight constriction in the barrel throat. With a 22LR, the barrel is stiffer due to the small bore.
So, it can't really relieve the extra pressure.

Once you understand this, it's easy to envision that the tension created by this fitting would end up being displaced somewhere else (ie: the thinnest part of the frame).
 
...... it's easy to envision that the tension created by this fitting would end up being displaced somewhere else (ie: the thinnest part of the frame).

Looking at that pic it's all kinda ugly. My opinion, shooting didn't cause that. Looks like somebody cranked it in a vise or somesuch but it is hard to tell from a pic. Joe
 
Looking at that pic it's all kinda ugly. My opinion, shooting didn't cause that. Looks like somebody cranked it in a vise or somesuch but it is hard to tell from a pic. Joe

Unfortunately I don't really have any other pics and the gun's already back at S&W. I don't think the finish on it was fantastic but I was planning on using this for general shooting/some competition stuff so I didn't mind too much. Crack definitely wasn't there when I first received it, but I have read of cracks just developing overnight.

I'm really just annoyed with S&W saying it'll take em twelve weeks to get to it.
 
I have taken the barrels off both pinned and un pinned frames. The non pinned barrels are not tighter than the pinned ones. The pin in actuality does nothing. I have installed a pinned barrel that did not torque up, put the pin in and was able to easily turning the barrel by hand several degrees in either direction. Even with a factory new barrel in a pinned frame you need the same amount of torque.

The main cause of cracks and restriction is over torquing pinned or non
 
I agree with Steelslaver. I think many, perhaps most, of the cracks seen in S&W aluminum and scandium frame revolvers do not come from shooting, but from the barrel being over-torqued to the frame. I am even more convinced of that looking at the above picture of a cracked model 63 frame, which is stainless steel, not a light weight, "weaker", "crack prone" alloy. That also explains why some alloy frames do not crack after thousands of rounds, yet some crack after a few cylinders full, and a few are reportedly cracked after test firing at the factory.
 
Be patient with them, regardless how long you owned it. Many other companies would have told you to pound sand and wait.
 
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Be patient with them, regardless how long you owned it. Many other companies would have told you to pound sand and wait.

I mean, yeah their customer service could be worse, but that's not really saying a whole lot, lol.
 
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