Cracked frame on model 38

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27 Man

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I just discovered that the frame is cracked on my airweight bodyguard. The crack is directly below the barrel where the barrel screws into the frame. I have no idea when this occurred but needless to say I have retired it. Is this type of thing repairable or do I have a really nice pristine wall hanger now? I bought this gun new back in the early 80s. I would post a picture but haven't figured that out yet.
 
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Toolguy has given you excellent advice, I highly recommend following that advice.
 
That's not repairable, take Toolguy's advice. There simply isn't much metal in the threaded boss in a J frame and cracks in the yoke cut aren't as scarce as hen's teeth. Particularly with the alloy frames.
 
I'll call S&W on Monday. Anyone in particular you recommend I talk with?Thanks for info but I think I know what I am going to hear.
 
Are these cracks caused by metal imperfections, overpowered cartridges, over torquing barrel, or magic?
 
If it is a model 38, it may have been made before the "Lifetime Warranty" era. If so, depending on with whom you speak at the factory, they may tell you there is no recourse or offer you a very good (discounted) deal on a new equivalent model. You can understand with a 30 year old gun with no history why they may be reluctant to replace it for free. Please let us know what happens?
 
chiefbob81 said:
Are these cracks caused by metal imperfections, overpowered cartridges, over torquing barrel, or magic?
Click to expand...
This has been occuring since Smith and Wesson began making allow framed revolvers more than half a century ago

This is not limited to J-frames. It happens to the K and N frames as well. They all crack in the same spot

The rifling in Smith and Wesson barrels is such that every time a round is fired in the the revolver, the torque that occurs as the projectile engages the rifling tightens the barrel

That hammering sometimes causes the alloy frames to crack, even the Scandium framed guns are susceptible to this
 
They replaced a cracked-frame Model 38 for me about ten or so years ago with a lesser gun, but least they replaced it. I don't know whether they still do this, but it's certainly worth a call.
 
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27 man, Not safe to shoot, not repairable, and a wall hanger as is. If S&W warranties it, I suspect they would just replace the gun. I've seen photos of the cracked alloy frames, and tend to examine my 642 more often than in past. That area beneath the barrel is super thin. I'm surprised it holds up as well as it does. My perspective on alloy frames in general, is that I accept the fact that they may not be as durable as steel, in exchange for their lighter weight. My 642 has not cracked.........yet. But my Alloy framed Colt Commander cracked after only moderate use with standard pressure ammo........ymmv

FWIW, I have occasionally dealt with S&W, for both warranty and paid work, over a lot of years. I don't know what their current attitude might be, but they have routinely gone above and beyond for me.
 
I had a similar situation last year. Crack under barrel on airweight frame. I bought it used, originally made 1982.

Called S&W, sent them pictures. At their request, I shipped it to them. They called stating that they could not return it, but they could give me my choice of a new 637, 638, or 642, shipped to my FFL. So I took the 642.
 
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If you really think its a paperweight and want to sell it for paperweight price, PM me.

I have long suspected these guns were cracked from the factory and will provide years of service in their cracked condition. I'd love to prove it by shooting one until (presumably) nothing happens.
 
You read more about such failures with the Model 12 snubby. I have seen three cracked M12s personally, all cracked in the same place. I have not seen a definitive reason for this, but many believe that it is the result of over-tightening of the barrel at the factory. I am not so sure that's the reason, but it is a possible reason. I cannot imagine it is a dangerous condition, but it is possible that the barrel may go flying off somewhere downrange, although I don't know of that ever happening. Repairable? Definitely not. You have a paperweight. Or at best, a parts donor gun.

This is the principal reason I will not consider buying any alloy framed S&W. I don't trust them, never had one, never will. I'll stick with steel.
 
S&W will certainly replace it. I had a pristine nickeled 38 that had the same crack appear. They gave me a 638 as a replacement. This was about 3-4 years ago.
 
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Last summer I discovered a crack in the same place on my M-37. S&W requested it be sent back. After examining it they replaced it under guarantee with a brand new M-637. I am happy.
 
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I have a nickel 37 that is cracked, I wonder if they would replace it but not with another 37 variant. I would be more interested in a 351C.
 
CZU said:
I have a nickel 37 that is cracked, I wonder if they would replace it but not with another 37 variant. I would be more interested in a 351C.
Click to expand...

You'll get a list of options for even replacement, and a dollar value for credit. I recently replaced a cracked 637 with a 442, even swap. That 351C stickers higher than a 37, so you'll get credit towards the price if that's what you want . . .
 
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Cracked receiver

chiefbob81 said:
Are these cracks caused by metal imperfections, overpowered cartridges, over torquing barrel, or magic?
Click to expand...

Chiefbob81 it can very well be some of the issues stated.
During the manufacturing process the frames "recievers" are heat treated, beneath the barrel portion of the frame becomes a little more brittle due to how thin it is. Now add a heat, kenetic energy and a slight misaligned cylinder, if you fire a round into the forcing cone again and again where those thin threads are it can and will eventually fail, and as others have stated you absolutly should retire the frame.
 
Another thing that may add to the problem is that the coefficient of expansion for steel and aluminum is not the same. Gun warming up and cooling causes the barrel and frame to expand and contract at different rates causing stress. Aluminum work hardens much faster than steel.
 
It would be interesting to take an air weight with "the crack" remove the barrel, coat threads with Belsona, an industrial 2 part metal epoxie, then shoot it to see when it failed. Might be surprised by how long it lasts, but I could never really trust it. But, let me ask this.. If it fired once would it be as trustworthy as one without the crack that may well crack on the very next shot fired???

I picked up a very nice alloy pre model 38 and have never fired it. I guess it is my safe queen.
 
Update:I called S&W this morning and explained my situation to Josh. He told me to send them the gun and they would evaluate it and either repair or replace it. He sent me instructions on how to send it along with a FedEx mailing label. Should they decide to replace it, would I have to go through a FFL or could they FedEx it to me as they would with a repaired gun? Didn't think to ask at the time. Also, is anyone aware if a 638 is available without a lock like the 642 and 637 are? Turnaround time is about 90 days.
 
sigp220.45 said:
If you really think its a paperweight and want to sell it for paperweight price, PM me.

I have long suspected these guns were cracked from the factory and will provide years of service in their cracked condition. I'd love to prove it by shooting one until (presumably) nothing happens.
Click to expand...

...if you ever do experiment...please post the results as I have the same feeling you do...

...frame has stress relieved itself and will continue on with the recommended ammo...
 
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