Cracked frame on model 38

[M29since14]

Ok, but what do you think would happen?

They will "provide years of service" - if you don't fire them. I have seen two guns destroyed that way, and potentially endangering the shooter and bystanders. The barrel will eventually detach from the frame and break away the left side of the frame in the process. One gun I remember in particular was a Model 60 being fired on an indoor range. We walked down range and picked up the barrel. The shooter knew the barrel was "loose" but did not understand the gravity of his observation.

FWIW, I would not fire an S&W with a cracked frame in anything short of an absolute emergency.

 

[armorer951]

Keep in mind the "Lifetime" warranty took affect February 1, 1989. Firearms manufactured on or after that date are covered, with some notable exceptions and exclusions.

 

[waffles]

My 38 had the same crack. Got fired a bit before noticing and the barrel was noticeably canted pretty quickly. Also had a 642 do it, but S&W replaced that one (2014 or so). Its a bummer but I've pretty much just written off non-steel J frames of that vintage.

 

[majick47]

Did the alloy Colt Cobras and Agents suffer the same frame cracking?

 

[gmborkovic]

Now Im just an old fella who has been shootin for a long time.
From my experience and seeing a lot of cracked alloy frames, you just
have to resolve that they are great carry guns but not made for a lot
of constant shooting even with std. ammo. Still carry a 38, 37 and 12
from the early 1970s. Lots of pocket wear and function perfectly.

 

[rockquarry]

Are these cracks caused by metal imperfections, overpowered cartridges, over torquing barrel, or magic?

Many often refer to over torqueing the barrel, but I don't know anymore about that than they do. Such an explanation may be nothing more than Internet conventional wisdom. If you'll examine the place where they all crack, the alloy is very, very thin - a definite weak spot.

I've had an S&W alloy j-frame crack along with a Colt Agent. What can be said about the very thin place on the S&W also applies to the Colt alloy frame. These older alloy-framed guns really weren't made to shoot much. Two cracked frames convinced me.

 

[dfariswheel]

Did the alloy Colt Cobras and Agents suffer the same frame cracking?

Not like the number of S&W "J" frames that crack.
Usually the Colt's cracked during attempted barrel changes, so Colt and most refinishers stopped doing any refinish work or rebarreling on the aluminum Colt's.

There were some Colt aluminum "D" frame guns that just cracked.
There are all sorts of guesses why an aluminum revolver would crack in the bottom of the barrel threads.
Since that area on a revolver is very thin, obviously some sort of stress was involved, whether it was stressed during barreling at the factory, or shooting stress, your guess is as good as anyone's.

 

[majick47]

rockquarry agree never intended by Smith/Colt to be target/range guns firing thousands of rounds, one step ahead of the ill fated all alloy USAF snub revolvers from the 1950s.

 

[Chubbs103]

I'll probably put 200 through my 442 this weekend. One of many such weekends.

So far, I only made it through 90rds this weekend. Maybe a few more tomorrow.

My 442 spends a lot of time in my front pocket. If I don't shoot it often, I don't seem to be able to hit anything with it.

I'm the original owner. It is under warranty. I check for the crack whenever I clean it. I refuse to carry something I can't stay proficient with.

 

[rockquarry]

I don't know much about the more recent alloy-framed gun like the 638. Do these also have a reputation for cracking? I've had one for more than ten years and I shoot it regularly, but only with standard pressure handloads using a 158 grain lead SWC.

If these don't crack or don't crack as frequently as the older guns, maybe S&W is doing something different. Anyone know?

 

[murphydog]

A happy resolution from the OP in this four year old thread :

"Yes. I contacted the company and explained the situation. As I recall, they sent a box and prepaid mailing label. Several days later, they contacted me that it was not repairable and would be replaced with a new 638. I had to supply the FFL to have it sent to. Few days later it arrived and I had to pay the transfer fee. I did strip the wooden grips off it before I sent it in. Hope this helps. "

 

[RCL-09]

A couple of weeks ago I came across a Centennial Airweight, nickel with bug screw and high horn grips. A bit worn on the finish but timing and lockup were great. $499

Then I looked at the frame under the barrel and there it was, a crack all the way through.

So back to looking again.

 

[jeeps]

My M38 cracked same place and sent it back, they replaced it with a 638 lock J-frame. I sold the 638 lock j-frame and bought a NIB M38 for $500 from the 1970's. I pocket carry it with standard 158swc pressure loads and do not shoot it much. When using a belt and a pancake holster I use a M-10 2" round butt which I shoot a lot and never worry about cracks.

 

[rockquarry]

A couple of weeks ago I came across a Centennial Airweight, nickel with bug screw and high horn grips. A bit worn on the finish but timing and lockup were great. $499

Then I looked at the frame under the barrel and there it was, a crack all the way through.

So back to looking again.

I fired an alloy J-frame after it cracked; probably a couple of cylinders full trying to figure why I was barely hitting the 25 yard berm, let alone the target. The crack really plays havoc with accuracy. I think the barrel remained fairly tight and took a lot of effort to remove.

When this happened with a Colt Agent, the front sight was not visible; it had moved 90 degrees to the right. The barrel could be easily unscrewed with two fingers.