Cracked frame on model 38

My S&W model 38 Airweight Bodyguard .38 Special J frame cracked, too.
Called S&W, and they said it could not be fixed, shot, nor replaced.
Our Holstein hardware store in Whitesburg, KY sold more S&W revolvers than any store in the U.S., but I will never buy another one!
S&W should have accepted responsibility, and recalled these defective revolvers before someone got maimed or killed!
 
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Have one just like it...in the same condition. It was one of the Michigan State Police backup guns with the blue frame and stainless cylinder.

Carried a 50s vintage 42 for many years as a backup gun to the holster duty weapon...it also cracked...

That is two out of the four J-frame Airweight .38s that I have owned that have cracked...the other two went down the road before they did do. Only two J .38s I have now are a 60-1 2" with adjustable sights and a 649-2...

No more for me...

...and I wonder...have I missed something in that I have never seen or heard of a J-frame alloy .22 like a 43 or 317 cracking... I have owned several of both and zero issues...

Somewhere I read a long time ago that the life expectancy of an alloy frame .38 J-frame was 300 rounds...anyone else ever hear that...

Bob
 
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I suppose that I am fortunate, that I am on my 3rd Airweight model 638 with no issues. One was lost in a divorce with few miles on it, so we won't count that one. The 1st one from the mid 90's fired a few hundred rounds, and was carried a lot, for maybe 10 years. It got sold maybe 15 years ago while I was in a stupid state of mind.

I searched a good while to find another 638 no dash to replace it, and have a lot of 148 gr wadcutters through it since. No problems with any of them. But I don't hot rod them either.

I've always been of a mind that a wadcutter was a good defensive round, and pretty much stuck to them. With a few +p's along the way for grins.

I like these little Airweight revolvers.
 
Somewhere I read a long time ago that the life expectancy of an alloy frame .38 J-frame was 300 rounds...anyone else ever hear that...

Bob

I'll probably put 200 through my 442 this weekend. One of many such weekends.

Most have been 148 HBWCs, but I have a couple thousand rounds of all flavors through mine so far.

I will admit, every time one of these threads come up, I go search for a crack. If I find one, I'll call S&W and see what the say.
 
Because the 642/442/Centennials snubbies are the only ones without the IL, they would be the only one I would buy. Crack one of them and at least S&W gives one back the same kind of gun.

My problem is I just rarely carry a snubbie so have no real need for a light weight .38. A friend pocket carries a 442 if he has pants on so it is perfect for him. For a pocket gun I've gone to a Kahr P380 or PM9 that just fits in my pocket better than a revolver...
 
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I'm having issues with a 638. It is on its second trip back to S&W. Not a crack but they said it is unshootable and it is only 5 years old. Wish me luck.
 
I own and carry all three types of J frames, steel (60-3), light weight (642), and air-weight (342). Have had the 60 since 1988 and have thousands of rounds through it. Have had the 342 no-lock since 2001 and have at least 1500 rounds through that one. Only used the 642 about four years with 400-500 rounds through it. Only crack in any was a crack in the yoke barrel of the 342, which the factory fixed and returned very rapidly.
 
In April of 2012 I sent my 1993 vintage 442 with Satin Nickle finish back to the factory for the same reason. There was an ongoing thread about it back then and I found the crack on examination after reading that thread.

About a week after I sent it back I got a call from CS informing me that the gun was unrepairable because it was built on the pre magnum J frame. They offered me the choice of a 442 in black or a 642 as the 442 was no longer offered with the Satin Nickle finish.

I opted for the 642 and since my original gun had no IL requested a non IL replacement. The CS rep told me that there might be a delay as they made the non IL guns in batches. I gave them the FFL info and about two weeks later I was notified by the FFL that the gun was waiting for me.

I believe that the cracked frames on the J frame guns are covered by the lifetime warranty and this is the first time I've ever heard of someone being told it wouldn't be covered.

I'd call back and try again. CS has been inconsistent of late, it's sort of like a roulette wheel.
 
Ok, but what do you think would happen?

They will "provide years of service" - if you don't fire them. :D I have seen two guns destroyed that way, and potentially endangering the shooter and bystanders. The barrel will eventually detach from the frame and break away the left side of the frame in the process. One gun I remember in particular was a Model 60 being fired on an indoor range. We walked down range and picked up the barrel. The shooter knew the barrel was "loose" but did not understand the gravity of his observation.

FWIW, I would not fire an S&W with a cracked frame in anything short of an absolute emergency.
 
My 38 had the same crack. Got fired a bit before noticing and the barrel was noticeably canted pretty quickly. Also had a 642 do it, but S&W replaced that one (2014 or so). Its a bummer but I've pretty much just written off non-steel J frames of that vintage.
 
Did the alloy Colt Cobras and Agents suffer the same frame cracking?
 
Now Im just an old fella who has been shootin for a long time.
From my experience and seeing a lot of cracked alloy frames, you just
have to resolve that they are great carry guns but not made for a lot
of constant shooting even with std. ammo. Still carry a 38, 37 and 12
from the early 1970s. Lots of pocket wear and function perfectly.
 
Are these cracks caused by metal imperfections, overpowered cartridges, over torquing barrel, or magic?

Many often refer to over torqueing the barrel, but I don't know anymore about that than they do. Such an explanation may be nothing more than Internet conventional wisdom. If you'll examine the place where they all crack, the alloy is very, very thin - a definite weak spot.

I've had an S&W alloy j-frame crack along with a Colt Agent. What can be said about the very thin place on the S&W also applies to the Colt alloy frame. These older alloy-framed guns really weren't made to shoot much. Two cracked frames convinced me.
 
Did the alloy Colt Cobras and Agents suffer the same frame cracking?

Not like the number of S&W "J" frames that crack.
Usually the Colt's cracked during attempted barrel changes, so Colt and most refinishers stopped doing any refinish work or rebarreling on the aluminum Colt's.

There were some Colt aluminum "D" frame guns that just cracked.
There are all sorts of guesses why an aluminum revolver would crack in the bottom of the barrel threads.
Since that area on a revolver is very thin, obviously some sort of stress was involved, whether it was stressed during barreling at the factory, or shooting stress, your guess is as good as anyone's.
 
rockquarry agree never intended by Smith/Colt to be target/range guns firing thousands of rounds, one step ahead of the ill fated all alloy USAF snub revolvers from the 1950s.
 
I'll probably put 200 through my 442 this weekend. One of many such weekends.

So far, I only made it through 90rds this weekend. Maybe a few more tomorrow.

My 442 spends a lot of time in my front pocket. If I don't shoot it often, I don't seem to be able to hit anything with it.

I'm the original owner. It is under warranty. I check for the crack whenever I clean it. I refuse to carry something I can't stay proficient with.
 
I don't know much about the more recent alloy-framed gun like the 638. Do these also have a reputation for cracking? I've had one for more than ten years and I shoot it regularly, but only with standard pressure handloads using a 158 grain lead SWC.

If these don't crack or don't crack as frequently as the older guns, maybe S&W is doing something different. Anyone know?
 
A happy resolution from the OP in this four year old thread :) :

"Yes. I contacted the company and explained the situation. As I recall, they sent a box and prepaid mailing label. Several days later, they contacted me that it was not repairable and would be replaced with a new 638. I had to supply the FFL to have it sent to. Few days later it arrived and I had to pay the transfer fee. I did strip the wooden grips off it before I sent it in. Hope this helps. "
 
A couple of weeks ago I came across a Centennial Airweight, nickel with bug screw and high horn grips. A bit worn on the finish but timing and lockup were great. $499

Then I looked at the frame under the barrel and there it was, a crack all the way through.

So back to looking again.
 
My M38 cracked same place and sent it back, they replaced it with a 638 lock J-frame. I sold the 638 lock j-frame and bought a NIB M38 for $500 from the 1970's. I pocket carry it with standard 158swc pressure loads and do not shoot it much. When using a belt and a pancake holster I use a M-10 2" round butt which I shoot a lot and never worry about cracks.
 
A couple of weeks ago I came across a Centennial Airweight, nickel with bug screw and high horn grips. A bit worn on the finish but timing and lockup were great. $499

Then I looked at the frame under the barrel and there it was, a crack all the way through.

So back to looking again.

I fired an alloy J-frame after it cracked; probably a couple of cylinders full trying to figure why I was barely hitting the 25 yard berm, let alone the target. The crack really plays havoc with accuracy. I think the barrel remained fairly tight and took a lot of effort to remove.

When this happened with a Colt Agent, the front sight was not visible; it had moved 90 degrees to the right. The barrel could be easily unscrewed with two fingers.
 
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