Seat and crimp in two separate operations. Like Dan said the Lee factor crimp die will solve the issue
Creases in cases...what am I doing wrong?
- Thread starter Scooter1942
- Start date
AJ
US Veteran
Interesting thread.
Good catch.
nksmfamjp
Member
It is most likely bullet tilt or crimp. Crimp has been covered.
Bullet tilt is most often caused by not expanding enough. A proper expanding step will seat most bullets straight. Additionally, flat tipped bullets need the flat seater. Most pistol bullets do better with the flat seater.
Seating and crimping can be done in one step. That said, you will find it easier to do in 2 steps, even with 1 die.
Bullet tilt is most often caused by not expanding enough. A proper expanding step will seat most bullets straight. Additionally, flat tipped bullets need the flat seater. Most pistol bullets do better with the flat seater.
Seating and crimping can be done in one step. That said, you will find it easier to do in 2 steps, even with 1 die.
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Miracle Man
US Veteran
YUP
Getting that expander die set just right goes a long way in producing quality reloads.
Bulged loaded case!
Everyone has an idea of what to do to prevent this problem! What does the OP do with the rounds that have a bulge and will not chamber! If he is using a strong single stage press the solution is simple! Remove the depriming pin from your resizing die. Using Carbide dies makes this simpler! Now run the loaded rounds thru the die! This will be harder than resizing just the brass because there is a bullet in the case that will be reduced in dia. also! I'm sure accuracy will suffer but it is the easiest way to empty the brass!
Been there, done that!
jcelect
Everyone has an idea of what to do to prevent this problem! What does the OP do with the rounds that have a bulge and will not chamber! If he is using a strong single stage press the solution is simple! Remove the depriming pin from your resizing die. Using Carbide dies makes this simpler! Now run the loaded rounds thru the die! This will be harder than resizing just the brass because there is a bullet in the case that will be reduced in dia. also! I'm sure accuracy will suffer but it is the easiest way to empty the brass!
Been there, done that!
jcelect
taz666
Member
jcelect ... what about Murphy?
nksmfamjp
Member
Frankly, I would pull the bullets.
AJ
US Veteran
ggibson511960
Member
A close examination of the pics shows the buckle not completely around the case circumference. Something is not square for the last few thousandths of seating/crimping stroke. Here's my prioritized list of ills: Dirty shell holder, dirty or inappropriate seating stem, wobbly seating stem not held firmly in seating die, seating die misaligned with shellholder, crooked case mouths, or bent case rims that won't let the case rest uniformly in the shellholder. All of these are easy to fix. Hardly anybody aligns dies with shellholder, but it needs to happen on any press that doesn't operate coaxially. That's why I'm a fanboy for Forster CoAx. Tighten the seating die lock ring with a loaded round pushed against the crimp ring, then screw down the seating stem against bullet nose and lock in place. If none of this helps, try being less agressive on the seating stroke. There is nothing wrong with backing a case out before the bullet is fully seated, then rotating it in the shellholder. You'll figure it out, one of the joys of handloading.
SGT ROCK 11B
Member
BTW, GFL (Fiocchi) 357 Magnum brass is pretty good. I have 100 pieces that have been loaded five times with either 125 and 158 XTPs and not a problem.
Model19man
Member
I load something like 20 different calibers. So far the 38 S&W is the only caliber that I have found that Lee does not make a FCD for. Turns out the 9MM Makarov is the same diameter so I got one of those. Lee does not sell them, but the FCD's sold by Old West are in fact made for them by Lee. So, two of the other calibers that I reload for, 38 Long Colt and 41 Long Colt, do actually have Lee FCD's too.
In any case the OP would be wise to invest in the FCD's. They make reloading a snap and will save the ruined cases.
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OK, the OP doesn't mention make of the loading dies. Most all revolver seating dies feature a roll crimp function which one can either use or not use. Since the cannelure OD is less than that of the bullet, you're not going to get bullet shaving from the crimp feature. Nor, unless you're severely over crimping, are you going to get significant longitudinal forces that would cause case collapse while seating/crimping at the same time.
We don't know the die brand, but I think part of the problem may be the design or specs of the expander die. Lyman's patent on the M die ran out some years back and I know when it did, RCBS promptly changed their expander design-at least in 9 mm. Lyman uses a fairly long initial nose to expand the case roughly to the depth for a bullet, plus the little step to expand the case mouth further to make starting the bullet easier. BTW, in their set of die spacer rings for .38/.357 and .44 Spl/Magnum, RCBS includes a 1/16 in spacer to eliminate crimp without changing die settings.
SO: OP first back your seating die off a bit and then carefully check just how much crimp you're applying. You really don't need all that much crimp on .357 cases unless you're shooting them in a J frame. Then, check just how deep the expander ball goes in your case to make sure it's getting the case back to where it needs to be to accept a bullet. If it's not going down far enough, pick up a Lyman M die for .38/.357 (item #: LY7341801 at Grafs.com).
Finally, it might just be that brand of brass. If so, avoid it in the future.
We don't know the die brand, but I think part of the problem may be the design or specs of the expander die. Lyman's patent on the M die ran out some years back and I know when it did, RCBS promptly changed their expander design-at least in 9 mm. Lyman uses a fairly long initial nose to expand the case roughly to the depth for a bullet, plus the little step to expand the case mouth further to make starting the bullet easier. BTW, in their set of die spacer rings for .38/.357 and .44 Spl/Magnum, RCBS includes a 1/16 in spacer to eliminate crimp without changing die settings.
SO: OP first back your seating die off a bit and then carefully check just how much crimp you're applying. You really don't need all that much crimp on .357 cases unless you're shooting them in a J frame. Then, check just how deep the expander ball goes in your case to make sure it's getting the case back to where it needs to be to accept a bullet. If it's not going down far enough, pick up a Lyman M die for .38/.357 (item #: LY7341801 at Grafs.com).
Finally, it might just be that brand of brass. If so, avoid it in the future.
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