Crimping .223?

[HELLSING]

I finally got my RCBS single press bolted down tonight and ready to run. Just got to go get some primers, bullets, and some powder.

I'm going to use Hornady v-max bullets & IMR 4064 powder.

I haven't read anything in my manuals or on the dvd that came with the package about crimping .223, but I've read on a few blogs and other sites that SOME people crimp. Would I need to for .223?

 

[tappedandtagged]

I was told it is not needed at all. But I feel if you are running it in an AR or other semi-auto AND your bullet has a cannelure, then a light crimp won't hurt. If it is a bolt action, don't crimp. If your bullet doesn't have a cannelure, don't crimp.

 

[MichiganScott]

I don't do it and find it not to be necessary in any caliber I handload for and that include .375 H&H. If you do not have sufficient bullet pull, you can polish down the expander ball a couple of thousand by chucking it in a drill press and using abrasive cloth.

I've seen more than one cartridge that has had the neck swollen by too heavy a crimp that actually decreased the bullet pull. Riveting the shoulder is also possible with too heavy a crimp. Inconsistent case length will give you inconsistent crimp. All in all, a crimp is just one more variable in the loading process that you do not need to introduce.

 

[Maximumbob54]

I use the Lee FCD just to bump down the square edge to try and make them feed even easier in an AR. Do I need to? Likely not, but it doesn't hurt unless you go nuts with the crimp.

 

[Rule3]

I also use the dreaded Lee FCD (collet type) with the magic fingers to lightly smooth out the case mouth

 

[Nevada Ed]

Depends on your rifle and bullet...........

my Bolt action 22-250 and .270, no..........
My 30-06 with 150gr Rem C0or-Lokt, yes. This bullet with no crimps averaged 1.26 to .88" at 100 yards with five powders.

With a medium crimp 3@ .38 chrony 2910fps

I trim cases first, seat bullets to the OAL then crimp in a final stage for best accuracy.

A semi-auto or mag feed gun might need a light crimp if the last load has a bullet shift,either forward or back into the case............mostly with heavy recoil loadings.

Good shooting.

 

[jepp2]

Only for semi-auto's, and then maybe.

I have a Browning BAR and after repeatedly chambering the same round, I pullet the bolt back when getting ready to exit my tree stand and found a primed case, lots of powder and a bullet stuck in the lands. The bullet I was using (Sierra 150 gr. Spitzer) had pullet due to the inertia action.

I have seen in my various AR's bullets move forward and backwards during the violent action of chambering. With excellent neck tension, the sudden stop can cause the bullet to move forward when the round stops suddenly. And with M4 feed ramps I have seen bullets driven deeper into the case when using hollow points. So my advice is similar to semi-auto pistol rounds. Check the OAL of your loads, place them second in the magazine. Fire the first round, eject and measure the second round. If you are experiencing bullet movement, consider changes.

Even with the neck tension I have, for my AR's I put a light crimp on the case using a seating die. It doesn't seem to impact accuracy and it gives me peace of mind.

 

[Nevada Ed]

Good point.............

I let a friend use some of my 270 ammo and the bullet did not have a cannelure...........when we got out of the jeep he chambered a round.Nothing....... so he walked back to the jeep,unloaded and the case and powder came back with the bolt,leaving the bullet stuck in the chamber area.

His Remington 700 did not match my Win chamber specs, another lesson learned.

From now on I load my bullets at the standard AOL so this will not happen again.