S&W Special 158gr heavy plated crimping question
- Thread starter riverfox
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If there is a cannelure, a light roll crimp will suffice. Some of the copper plated bullets from Berry and X-treme do not have cannelures. Follow the loading instructions on their sites. A crimp that is sufficient to hold the bullet and not break the plating is advised. Don't over think it. I shoot them often with no problem.
Ivan the Butcher
Member
I use the Taper Crimp Die, 380, 9mm, or 38/357. Seat to length in one step and crimp in another.
Revolver:
Just adjust the taper crimp to snug the case to the bullet. You don't want to adjust the crimp so tight it cuts the plating. (I use Berry's heavy plated bullet in 357 Sig, 300 Blackout and 30 Carbine without any problems.)
Lever Action:
Either buy bullet with a crimping groove (called a cannelure) and roll crimp, OR adjust the taper crimp to cut in deeper!
Ivan
Revolver:
Just adjust the taper crimp to snug the case to the bullet. You don't want to adjust the crimp so tight it cuts the plating. (I use Berry's heavy plated bullet in 357 Sig, 300 Blackout and 30 Carbine without any problems.)
Lever Action:
Either buy bullet with a crimping groove (called a cannelure) and roll crimp, OR adjust the taper crimp to cut in deeper!
Ivan
I've loaded a bunch of Rainier plated RNs in .38 brass. Rather than crimp into the bullet, I seat them to right about where the ogive begins to curve in and give them a light roll crimp. I haven't tried it with the FNs but it would probably work with them too.
Plated bullets and firm roll crimps generally do not mix. This is the downfall of plated bullets in revolvers. I'd say a light roll crimp into a crimping groove or cannelure. If there is no groove or cannelure, then a taper crimp might be enough, but bullets may want to pull from the cases during recoil. You could try roll crimping over the edge of the driving band if the bullet has one.
Model19man
Member
The plated bullets I use in 357 Magnum are the Berry 148 grain Double Ended wadcutters. For 158 grain I use a powder coated semi wadcutter from Missouri bullets. For either one I use the Lee factory crimp carbide die. Accuracy is outstanding.
For your plated bullets I would use the Lee FCD and pay attention to the OAL of the cartridge. Use the starting load of the manual, likely it will allso be very accurate so there will be no reason to increase it. Plated bullets normally would be treated the same as cast lead lubricated bullets.
For your plated bullets I would use the Lee FCD and pay attention to the OAL of the cartridge. Use the starting load of the manual, likely it will allso be very accurate so there will be no reason to increase it. Plated bullets normally would be treated the same as cast lead lubricated bullets.
gwpercle
Member
Does this bullet have a cannelure , crimp groove or is it smooth sided .
In handloading , Details make a difference .
What exactly are you loading .
Gary
In handloading , Details make a difference .
What exactly are you loading .
Gary
I load .38 special 158gr Berry RN plated bullets at low/moderate levels with a light roll crimp.
I check the crimp by pulling a seated bullet with an inertia puller, and look for a slight indentation in the plating made by the edge of the roll crimp but not torn. Below the roll crimp indentation the surface of the copper appears shiny or burnished from where it passes the roll crimp.
Kevin G
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I check the crimp by pulling a seated bullet with an inertia puller, and look for a slight indentation in the plating made by the edge of the roll crimp but not torn. Below the roll crimp indentation the surface of the copper appears shiny or burnished from where it passes the roll crimp.
Kevin G
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
