Anybody carry a 3 1/2 inch N frame in a crossdraw holster? If you do, how do you like it (pros and cons)?
Crossdraw
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Wyatt Burp
Member
I don't, but I did make a very snug cross draw holster for my 2 1/2" chopped Colt 1917 .45. It has worked out fine. I bring up this gun because it's also a big chunk of steal with a short barrel like a 3 1/2" N frame. A gun I also own and need to make a holster for, too,btw.
LoboGunLeather
US Veteran
Cross-draw holsters serve some people very well. Those who spend a lot of time seated or driving gain some accessibility with cross-draw. Some folks with range-of-motion issues in the hand, wrist, arm, or shoulder can benefit from a cross-draw rig.
For most applications the cross-draw has some fairly serious limitations. The reverse cant (muzzle forward, grip-frame to the rear) is less effective at disguising the handgun's outline, and the grip-frame usually projects outward from the body to some degree. These factors make the cross-draw generally less concealable than a strong-side rig. More attention to cover garments is required to maintain reasonable concealment.
From a defensive tactical perspective we are less able to effectively draw the handgun from a cross-draw holster, an aggressor at close quarters can more easily block the hand and arm during the draw, and the simple act of reaching for the handgun can telegraph intent to an opponent. Also, the muzzle of the weapon must be rotated nearly 180 degrees, passing over anything and anyone within a wide arc, before it can be directed at the intended target. At close range it can be easier for an opponent to disarm someone using a cross-draw rig than with a strong-side carry.
Like everything else in holster design there are always compromises among the 4 basic factors of comfort, accessibility, security, and concealability. Only the individual can decide which factors are most important for his needs and how much compromise can be accepted in the other factors.
For most applications the cross-draw has some fairly serious limitations. The reverse cant (muzzle forward, grip-frame to the rear) is less effective at disguising the handgun's outline, and the grip-frame usually projects outward from the body to some degree. These factors make the cross-draw generally less concealable than a strong-side rig. More attention to cover garments is required to maintain reasonable concealment.
From a defensive tactical perspective we are less able to effectively draw the handgun from a cross-draw holster, an aggressor at close quarters can more easily block the hand and arm during the draw, and the simple act of reaching for the handgun can telegraph intent to an opponent. Also, the muzzle of the weapon must be rotated nearly 180 degrees, passing over anything and anyone within a wide arc, before it can be directed at the intended target. At close range it can be easier for an opponent to disarm someone using a cross-draw rig than with a strong-side carry.
Like everything else in holster design there are always compromises among the 4 basic factors of comfort, accessibility, security, and concealability. Only the individual can decide which factors are most important for his needs and how much compromise can be accepted in the other factors.
I have and used several for maybe 20 years ....
mostly Bianchi 111s for 3 a inch k-frame 66 or 4",L or N frame revolvers.......use is generally limited to the "woods bumming"/ hiking or riding an ATV or RZR.
Generally worn under a Photo/Hiking vest, flannel shirt or jacket/coat.
May try some for med auto this winter ...... on winter urban walks.
Don't view them as a 'general purpose" concealed carry holster..... but easier to get to than my usual IWB at 4-5 o'clock when wearing a zipped/buttoned outer garment.
mostly Bianchi 111s for 3 a inch k-frame 66 or 4",L or N frame revolvers.......use is generally limited to the "woods bumming"/ hiking or riding an ATV or RZR.
Generally worn under a Photo/Hiking vest, flannel shirt or jacket/coat.
May try some for med auto this winter ...... on winter urban walks.
Don't view them as a 'general purpose" concealed carry holster..... but easier to get to than my usual IWB at 4-5 o'clock when wearing a zipped/buttoned outer garment.
I have a 4" M27 that I carry in a cross draw holster made for a seated driver. If I was just walking around I'd carry the M27 in a strong side holster.
I didn't mind the cross draw holster as I drove but it was hell keeping it concealed when I made stops. I got'r'dun, though - glad it was not too hot at the time!
***GRJ***
I didn't mind the cross draw holster as I drove but it was hell keeping it concealed when I made stops. I got'r'dun, though - glad it was not too hot at the time!
***GRJ***
Rpg
Member
Some ranges won't let you shoot 'from the leather' with a cross draw since you almost certainly cover everything on the weak side (including parts of you) during the presentation. Other ranges will require you to shoot from the end of the firing line so there are no shooters on your weak side.
In any event, I'm always unwilling to line up on a firing line with someone using a cross draw.
All that said, they are comfortable (to me) for a M29 with 6 1/2" bbl for hunting: far superior to any other rig for that revolver for that purpose.
In any event, I'm always unwilling to line up on a firing line with someone using a cross draw.
All that said, they are comfortable (to me) for a M29 with 6 1/2" bbl for hunting: far superior to any other rig for that revolver for that purpose.
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If you use a cross draw holster, other than the driving situation I indicated, at a range that allows it you must learn to do what in cowboy action shooting we call the "dance". In the dance a crossdraw shooter MUST step towards the target with his weak side foot, turn his/her hip, and then draw such that the handgun actually never covers anyone, including the shooter, and the muzzle stays inside the 170 degree plane.
Any violation of that disqualifies a shooter so all CAS participants who crossdraw learn this move thoroughly. How that translates in a self defense situation I am not certain of but I don't think it's much of a problem in that context.
***GRJ***
Any violation of that disqualifies a shooter so all CAS participants who crossdraw learn this move thoroughly. How that translates in a self defense situation I am not certain of but I don't think it's much of a problem in that context.
***GRJ***
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YES & NO! Once in a while I'll carry IWB but in the cross draw position. I like those cheap floppy suede holsters with the clip offset (did that myself years ago) for this purpose and don't care that I would not be able to re-holster with one hand. They are very thin, very comfortable and retain the gun in the position I mentioned (9 'O clock). Other than that, when I use an OWB leather holster it's always at the 4 'O clock position.
When in the field I use a cross draw holster for a 4" N Frame, a 1911,or for a USFA 4 3/4" 45 Colt.
I find the cross draw is the most comfortable when carrying a pack, riding a horse, on an ATV, in a vehicle, in a blind/tree stand, or just sitting on the ground.
It also allows you quick access to your handgun, if you are wearing a coat, if you an leave it unzipped or unbuttoned from the bottom a few inches, and you still stay warm and dry...
I find the cross draw is the most comfortable when carrying a pack, riding a horse, on an ATV, in a vehicle, in a blind/tree stand, or just sitting on the ground.
It also allows you quick access to your handgun, if you are wearing a coat, if you an leave it unzipped or unbuttoned from the bottom a few inches, and you still stay warm and dry...
I used a crossdraw duty holster for years. It was perfect for sitting in the car and having the gun handy when anyone walked up to the window. Nowadays, though, it's too much weight pulling on my (bad) back, so I don't use that style much any more. I cannot imagine holstering an N frame like that... you guys must have bodybuilder back muscles or somethin'.
mustangman
Member
I carry cross draw more out of necessity than anything else. If I aint sleeping, I'm sitting, which includes driving, so cross draw is perfect for me. If I'm stationary and not on the move, my hand is always only inches away from my gun, so there's not a lot of wasted motion on the draw. One thing it does require is a lot of practice to make it safe and keep from "sweeping" everything to the left. Like everything else when it comes to guns and shooting, practice, practice, practice.
