Custom S&W in 32 magnum feasibility check

[nksmfamjp]

So, a s&w 16 32 mag is a rare bird....relatively.

It I wanted to turn a common model like a 15 into a 32 mag custom with a match grade barrel, how do I get a cylinder?

Is anyone making them from bar stock?

 

[cgt4570]

You use just a Model 17 cylinder and re-chamber it. PM me if you need one. I have a couple spares plus a couple 617 and 648 cylinders if you wanted stainless.
I had Hamilton Bowen assemble a .327 Fed Mag for me a few years back.
It's a pre-15 frame, Mod 17 cylinder and an 8-3/8" Model 16-4 barrel.
It has a vintage Leupold scope with Buehler mount and rings.

 

[steelslaver]

The cylinder is relatively easy. Ream a 6 shot K 22 cylinder. I did it for my model 16-4 so I could leave original one stock. Others also have. But finding a K frame 32 caliber barrel is a real problem or for that mater any .312 barrel material with an appropriate twist. The S&W barrels rarely show up, You could have a K 22 barrel reamed and rifled, People that do that work are hard to find and usually have a long waiting list. Lining a 38 barrel is not recommended because the liner would be very thin in the forcing cone area and the round is to hot for that. You could have a piece of barrel turned and threaded, the the OD reduced in front of the frame so a drilled out 38 heavy barrel could slip over it and meet the frame. This "sleeve" could be silver soldered eon to the actual barrel. This would give you a solid area in the forcing cone and the portion threaded to the frame.

I did make up a dual caliber gun that fires 32 S&W using a reamed K 22 cylinder in a 32-20 frame

By the time you buy a barrel blank, a cylinder and a Model 15. Spend the money to have the barrel turned and threaded, the cylinder reamed and some kind of forward lock installed, get everything fitted it would be cheaper to just buy a model 16

 

[nksmfamjp]

So, it seems like you start with a 17 and put a custom 32 barrel on it.

I'm surprised nobody is making a machined from bar stock cylinder blank.

 

[Hondo44]

There are, Bowen is one that comes to mind and there are others. Check his website.

 

[steelslaver]

So, it seems like you start with a 17 and put a custom 32 barrel on it.

I'm surprised nobody is making a machined from bar stock cylinder blank.

The problem with using a K 22 frame to make a 32 is rim fire to center fire. Moving the firing pin also means dealing tith the firing pin bushing. Not impossible but not as easy as starting with a centerfire frame


I emailed Bowen awhile back and he said he didn't have anymore blank K frame cylinders. Will that change in the future???

K frame 22 cylinders are not hard to find and ream.

lothar-walther.com has .312 caliber 1 in 16" twist blanks for $220 plus shipping.

 

[Green Frog]

Friend steelslaver nailed it. Although some people like Jebus35745 have done something similar to what you suggest, changing the firing pin from rim to center fire adds unnecessary effort and expense. I had a stainless version built on a Model 66 using 617 parts I bought room vendors and had rebored. My barrel was done by a man who has now passed away, but others are doing the same work. As for reaming the cylinder and the assembly, it was done by Andy Horvath of LaGrange, OH. If you aren't limiting yourself to an original barrel, any revolversmith who specializes in PPC Guns can turn one from a blank and install it for you.

BTW, from what I've been able to learn, Hamilton Bowen no longer has the cylinder blanks and seems to have discontinued having them produced, so 22 cal cylinders seem to be the best pathway to getting a 32 cylinder.

I've actually had 2 K frame 32s built in recent years, the first the stainless 327 Fed Mag (dubbed "Project 616") and later an homage to the 16-3 using a NOS Model 16 barrel, but another K22 cylinder. I'd be happy to discuss my experiences with you, just send me a PM with your e-mail and I'll shoot you digital copies of the articles I wrote about them.

Froggie

PS Check out Project 616 and My Faux K-32 is Here! as well as a similar discussion at this thread Pre-WW II 32 Multi-Cylinders?

 

[Hondo44]

So, it seems like you start with a 17 and put a custom 32 barrel on it.

I'm surprised nobody is making a machined from bar stock cylinder blank.

No you had the right idea using a Model 15 in the first place for two reasons:

1. The firing pin issue mentioned above.

2. Model 15s are easier to find and generally a lot less expensive to purchase than 17s.

 

[Jersey Doug]

.22 L.R. cylinders in a non-.22 centerfire Frame ??????

Have k-frame guns of every type from the '70's and four extra .22 cylinders. Have switched every combination of .22 L.R. cylinder to centerfire frames without success? If anyone here achieved a working combination would really appreciate knowing the Model with dash numbers?

 

[Hondo44]

Well specifically what was the issue of your unsuccessful attempts?

 

[steelslaver]

TO use a K frame 22 cylinder in anything but model 13 or 19 cylinder the first thing you will meed to to is either shave the recesses off the K22 cylinder or carefully file back the frame lug as it will prevent a recessed cylinder from working. The only other problems are length of barrel extension and the length of yoke tube. Then, there may or may not be some timing issues. But, I run into those way less than yoke tube length. I have also found that sometimes the gas ring is a bit long. Something like Prussian blue will tell you where your tight.

So, the K22 cylinders will not go into the 38 special guns because none of them were recessed and the K22 cylinder will bind on frame lug. They should close (with right tube length) on a recessed 13 or 19 frame except they would be to short and have a huge B/C gap. because those guns used longer magnum cylinders and their barrel extension is shorter. If there is a yoke tube length problem you can figure it on by removing extractor star. This will allow the cylinder to close (once frame lug is dealt with) Then You can measure the distance between cylinder and recoil shield, depth of recess in cylinder for ratchet and ratchet thickness. Do the math and cut down tip of yoke tube. Tip you can make a yoke trimmer using a case trimmer (out of the frame) and a fairly long pilot turned to just fit inside the yoke tube. Then a careful clean up with a nice flat diamond stone

It is kind of like reaming a recessed 44 mag cylinder to 45 colt and sticking it in a 25-2 frame. It will fit, one the tube length is right, the frame lug is replaced or filed back and the barrel extension is cut back it fits right in. LOL You will need to recut the forcing cone too of course.

I have made a K22 cylinder reamed to 327 mag work in my 16-4. one reamed to 32 S&W long work in a 32-20. Made one into a 22 Harvey Kay Chuck and fit it to a model 10 frame with a K22 barrel. I have a K22 cylinder that has been reamed to 22TCM and have usedx it in my 22 Harvey Kay Chuck.

 

[Jersey Doug]

Making a .327

Steelslayer,,, Your info's saving me many hours of mismatching, thanks. Tried what you said, put the 22 cylinder in my M-19. It does work, cycles perfectly. Already have .22 L.R. (like new) barrels converted to .32 just need the cylinder opened up to .327 is that correct?

 

[steelslaver]

Yes. but I wouldn't take apart a nice model 19 to do it, when a model 15 or 14 frame will work if you remove about .04 of the frame lug. I have another plan and just ordered another J&G model 10 frame (4th one) to execute it.

I have an new in the white 32-20 barrel coming from Numerich, have a K 22 cylinder, a k frame rear sight and a model 14 barrel.

Ream the cylinder to 327, cut the barrel extension off the model 14 barrel and drill and ream it out to 13/32 (.40625), remove the front sight from 32-20 barrel and turn it down to .4055 till just in front of its threads. place it on dry ice to take it down to -100f and shrink it. Heat what was the model 14 barrel up to about 350f to expand it and slide them together and cause them to shrink fit.

Mill the model 10 frame for adjustable sights and hey a K frame 327 Federal for about $500

I need to finish my Smolt first though. S many guns to built and hunting season is almost here to.

 

[Jersey Doug]

M-16 in .327

Steelslayer ,, This is my M-15 with M-16 barrel and M-16 cylinder reamed to .327 . With .32 wadcutters and bullseye most accurate of all my guns. With .327 mag rounds likes the long barrel's burn time.

 

[steelslaver]

I have been on the hunt for a factory model 16 barrel for a couple years. Missed one for sale here on forum as it didn't last long. Factory cylinders are hard to find to. I have been thinking of making one for a while. I do have some J and I frames and a 32-20 and a 16-4.

I saw a pre model K32 at a gun show here today. Nicely refinished with fairly recent production stocks. $2500 was to rich for me. Nice looking gun, but not worth that with refinish and wrong stocks. I am going to built one

 

[StrawHat]

Yes. but I wouldn't take apart a nice model 19 to do it, when a model 15 or 14 frame will work if you remove about .04 of the frame lug. I have another plan and just ordered another J&G model 10 frame (4th one) to execute it.

I have an new in the white 32-20 barrel coming from Numerich, have a K 22 cylinder, a k frame rear sight and a model 14 barrel.

Ream the cylinder to 327, cut the barrel extension off the model 14 barrel and drill and ream it out to 13/32 (.40625), remove the front sight from 32-20 barrel and turn it down to .4055 till just in front of its threads. place it on dry ice to take it down to -100f and shrink it. Heat what was the model 14 barrel up to about 350f to expand it and slide them together and cause them to shrink fit.

Mill the model 10 frame for adjustable sights and hey a K frame 327 Federal for about $500

I need to finish my Smolt first though. S many guns to built and hunting season is almost here to.

I am sure I speak for others when I say I wish had your shop and skills.

Kevin

 

[Jersey Doug]

Steelslaver, Have one last question.. My M-16 .32H&R (now .327 mag) is not countersunk, my M-19 is countersunk. When sent the K22 cylinder out to be converted to .327 should it then be countersunk or not?

 

[Hondo44]

If the chambers weren't counter-bored then the rear of the cyl had to be faced off for proper head space or the cyl couldn't close.

 

[steelslaver]

If your going to use it in the model 19 frame with a 32 barrel you can leave the recesses as the model 19 frame lug is set for a counter sunk cylinder. But, if you use it in the 16-4 frame you will need to shave the countersunk portion of cylinder off or trim back the 16-4s frame lug. Something I would not do as a stock 16-4 commands a premium price.

If you trim it back and use it in both frames for some reason, it would still work in the 19 frame. It is just that when open the cylinder would move back the .04 to hit the frame lug when ejecting and as you load the cylinder it will move back forward and close normally. If you were to hold itt muzzle up the side of the ratchett might hang up a bit on side of recoil shield, but then your ammo would be falling out anyway if you did that.

This is a common deal with dual cylinder 45 acp- 45 colts. The acp cylinder has a lot of space between recoil shield and rear of cylinder (moon clips + case heads) and a 45 colt just has the rim. So normally for the colt cylinder needs the lug way bag and this means the acp cylinder is real sloppy when open. There is another way on them and gthat is to cut a .04 ledge from the rear OD of the colt cylinder. This lets the lug remain at acp length and gives the colt cylinder clearance on the lug.

I did away with all my dual cylinder 45s though. The ones that I want to fire both use 45colt cylinders with clip recesses for acps.

 

[CH4]

FYI:

Here're are my .22lr 17-6 (top) and .32 H&R 16-4 (bottom). You can see the difference in frame lug size. The frame lug on the .22lr with recessed cylinder is much smaller/narrower.