Cut down my 629?

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I've always been a huge fan of short-barrelled wheel guns and am thinking of converting my 4" 629-6 to a 2" bbl and have it look like the Camfour .44 magnum. The idea of a 2" N-frame revolver has been going around in my head for quite awhile.

I know that shooting magnum loads might be prohibitive, so I would mainly shooting .44 spl.

While I'm drooling over this conversion, something stops me - I'm wondering if you guys can talk me into this or talk me out of this - you know, enable me or not enable me, :D.

Seriously, I'd like your opinions.

Thanks to all who respond -

Rich
 
I’ve cut down sg and rifle bbls but only one revolver [a .45 vaquero was professionally done] and I’ve swapped 2 inch bbls for long bbls several times on colt and smith .38s. My 2 cents would be a bbl swap as opposed to cutting if possible. Here’s a smith before and after.
 

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Lousy idea. Short-barrel revolvers are a dime a dozen, but REAL guns with REAL barrels on them are hard to find. I wouldn't want even a 4" barrel, much less a 2".
 
In my opinion, cutting it is a bad idea. If you don't like the result, going back is difficult and expensive. I would either do the barrel swap, as it can be fairly easily reversed, or, if you're heart is set on a snubby and you can't afford one outright, look to find a way to trade. I'm sure there's someone out there who is tired of their snubby and would like a longer barrel. Or a LGS that would take it in trade. Just my opinion.
 
I have nothing against snubs, but a 2" barrel 44 mag is not practical even shooting 44 specials. I carry a 2 1/2" 325 and another 1/2 of barrel wouldn't be a problem to conceal in conjunction with the frame and cylinder.

is it possible? Sure, start with a heavy barrel and turn the shank end down and thread so the lug and shroud move back then nip it off right at the ejector. Just enough off that with the tip pushed flush on yoke to give the brass a good start. Y ou could do a Jovino and remove the actual lug and install a ball detent or 2 on the yoke
 
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I would also like to have a 2"..... That said, I would not cut the existing barrel. The markings will look funky forever. I would replace it. That can always be undone. I know nothing about the availability of a 2" .44.
 
Rich, I would strongly advise against cutting the barrel down. If you cut the barrel to 2", chances are extremely good that you'll have to shorten the extractor, which could impede positive extraction of fired cases.

After developing a strong fondness for my 36-6 3", I've acquired a 686+ 3" and I have a 629 3" on the way. Considering the cost and availability of handguns today, I'd look for a 3" barrel that can be installed. Should you either get tired of the shorter barrel, or it doesn't deliver the accuracy that you seek, you can always reinstall the original 4" barrel. This is the luxury of having a switch barrel!
 
Does the OP really mean a 2-inch
barrel? Since nearly half the barrel will
be within the frame of the gun,
only 1-inch will stick out beyond the
frame.

How about a 2.75-inch barrel?

But the best idea is a 4-inch barrel.
Oh, wait.........
 
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I've always been a huge fan of short-barrelled wheel guns and am thinking of converting my 4" 629-6 to a 2" bbl and have it look like the Camfour .44 magnum. The idea of a 2" N-frame revolver has been going around in my head for quite awhile.

I know that shooting magnum loads might be prohibitive, so I would mainly shooting .44 spl.

While I'm drooling over this conversion, something stops me - I'm wondering if you guys can talk me into this or talk me out of this - you know, enable me or not enable me, :D.

Seriously, I'd like your opinions.

Thanks to all who respond -

Rich

PM me and I'll sell you a gorgeous 629-4 with box and docs for likely a bit less than you'd have in this....
 
In this pricing environment for vintage Smiths any type of modification away from stock is always a bad idea without any exception.
 
Don’t forget, barrel measurement goes from the forcing cone to the muzzle. It doesn’t start at the front of the frame. A true 2” barrel sticking out the front of an N-Frame 629? Really?

A J-Frame with a 2” barrel has a certain look—a balance of concealability and close range efficiency.

An N-Frame with a 2” barrel would look silly, IMO. Not to mention the displeasure of actually shooting it, even with .44 Spcl. The cartridges are not designed for such short barrels.

Now a 3” barrel looks proportionally correct, like a real fighting gun, just on steroids. Still silly, IMO, for ballistics and user friendliness, but doable with a $102 barrel/shroud kit from Midway.

You can’t cut a 4” barrel to 2”, re-crown it and mount the front sight again for that kind of money. Especially if you have to shorten the shroud and ejector (don’t know if you do).

But it’s your gun. I’ve probably done things just as silly to a number of my guns that I never expect to sell, or with some $$ might be returned to close to an original configuration. Want not need is sometimes the decision.
 
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I've always been a huge fan of short-barrelled wheel guns and am thinking of converting my 4" 629-6 to a 2" bbl and have it look like the Camfour .44 magnum. The idea of a 2" N-frame revolver has been going around in my head for quite awhile.

I know that shooting magnum loads might be prohibitive, so I would mainly shooting .44 spl.

While I'm drooling over this conversion, something stops me - I'm wondering if you guys can talk me into this or talk me out of this - you know, enable me or not enable me, :D.

Seriously, I'd like your opinions.

Thanks to all who respond -

Rich
2" N-frames are pretty short. As far as I can recall, there have only been 4 of them.

One of them has been in continuous production for over 16 years. That would be the 2" 327

I like the pug nosed look of these

327-2s.jpg


2" N-frames have also been offered in the Model 625 as both 45 ACP revolvers and 45 Long Colt revolvers. I never bought one in 45 ACP, but I do love the 45 Long Colt cartridge

625%20pair.jpg


There were some 2" Model 29 Tunnel Guns built for the Vietnam war

q1-650x505.jpg


Those are the only 4 factory examples of 2" N-frames that I can recall

During the 70s and 80s, there were several gun smiths making money converting longer barreled N-frames into snubbies. Barrels typically ranged from 2 3/8" - 2 5/8" depending on who did the work.

TR%20Cuffs.jpg


This one was done by the Austin Behlert. This is probably the shortest barrel yo can have and still retain a full lengh ejecto rod
 
I would contact the Performance Center and see what they can do for you and how much it would cost. I am a big fan of owning guns that serve me for what I want or need. If the Performance Center dose it then the gun still has a history of being all S&W. Even if S&W offered the finale result in their catalog it wouldn’t have a great popularity in sales. I think that when a gun has a high value it deserves to be done right with no corners skipped. I once sent a 45 Colt SAA to Colts Custom Shop. It was a Sheriffs Model with a 3” barrel and no ejector. I had them rebarrel it to a 2” snubbie. Having the paper work showing what work they did and at what price it’s value remained.
 
I enjoy modifying S&W revolvers. I have done several. However a 2” N frame? Not something I would consider. For me, a 4” tapered barrel is about ideal on the N frame, especially when chambered for the ACP cartridge. That is my EDC piece. I have tried 3” and they do not carry nearly as well. Same with the 5” or longer.

But, it is your revolver and your time and money. That’s the good thing, no matter what WE think, it is ultimately your decision.

Kevin
 
Why not just buy a Performance Center 2 5/8?

It would drive me nuts to have the bbl stamp so far off center; and the time & expense.....to save 5/8 of an inch? Just take the 2 5/8 to a gunsmith, he may be able to shave a little more off.

You could even get lucky and find one of the pre lock versions that were factory cut for moon clips. Not that I found those to be particularly practical because the moonclips are pretty thin and bend easily.
 

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