Cut my j-frame mainspring to short?

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I have a 4" M-34 that was a great shooter except the trigger pull was a bit too stiff so I cut a coil or two off the trigger return spring and main spring and that made the DA/SA pulls much better. The problem is, now there is no longer 100% perfect ignition. The trigger return works fine but the gun will not fire double action every time, maybe one or two out of each cylinder won't fire. Single action has perfect reliability so I was wondering if I could make a spacer to add a little more compression and power backto the mainspring. I know I could buy a set of Bullseye springs I was just wondering if the spacer idea would work. Since its not a defensive gun I wouldn't care if there was one misfire every hundred rounds or so, since its hard to hit a small target with a .22 with really stiff trigger.
 
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I have a 4" M-34 that was a great shooter except the trigger pull was a bit too stiff so I cut a coil or two off the trigger return spring and main spring and that made the DA/SA pulls much better. The problem is, now there is no longer 100% perfect ignition. The trigger return works fine but the gun will not fire double action every time, maybe one or two out of each cylinder won't fire. Single action has perfect reliability so I was wondering if I could make a spacer to add a little more compression and power backto the mainspring. I know I could buy a set of Bullseye springs I was just wondering if the spacer idea would work. Since its not a defensive gun I wouldn't care if there was one misfire every hundred rounds or so, since its hard to hit a small target with a .22 with really stiff trigger.
 
I would just buy a reduced power hammer spring and trigger spring kit,
You will like it and it will work well.
Have several Wolf kits in my J frames with 0 issues, Way nicer feel that clipped springs too!
Peter
 
I second the use of a reduced power hammer spring. I gave my father a M63 twenty years or more back. He's in his 90's now and still loves to target shoot when I visit, but cocking the hammer on the small J-frame is hard on his hand. I installed a Wolff 8 lb. spring and it does the job and has reliable igniition as well.
 
A new spring -- Wolff makes good ones -- will be the best way for you to go. But this episode illustrates why I never mess with springs on a J-frame beyond sometimes clipping the trigger return spring a coil or two. I rely much more on smoothing all friction points in the action so the revolver runs smoothly, even if the trigger pull is still a bit weighty.

With a rimfire, the reliability (or lack thereof) is not the only factor. Rimfire ammo is dependent to a degree on a consistent firing pin strike for positive and consistent ignition. Lightening the strike can introduce a situation where velocity may vary quite significantly from one round to the next, screwing up accuracy but good in some cases.
 
I haven't been inside a J-frame in some time, but when I did something similar to my Taurus J-frame rimfire clone, I was able to correct the problem by using a small washer behind the spring, to shim the spring where it contacts the frame. I can't remember whether it was a #6 or #8 washer, but I believe it was one of those two sizes. You can stack a few washers and test for reliabilty. Add back as many as you need to ensure reliability. This should work as a stop gap until you get a new spring, or you may decide to just leave it that way.
 
You can get factory mainsprings or reduced power mainsprings from Brownell's. I have started leaving the mainsprings alone on my .22 cal. J frame guns. They need all the power they can get to fire hard case stuff like Aquilla. I do replace the rebound spring with a slightly lighter one, 13 or 14 lb.
 
I too, would get a new spring. Cheap and easy to install. That said, no harm in adding a washer, but even if you get good results, I'd still go aead and order a new spring just to have in case.
 
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