Cut off Uncle Mike's third finger!!!

Maximumbob54

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I read where someone else tried this and I love it. If you cut it just right you keep the hook from the second finger groove for your hand to get a good hold. It covers the back of the grip in a little bit of rubber giving you more to hold onto and maybe absorbing some recoil. Why this isn't made in mass quantity I don't know.
 

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For people with large hands like myself the unmodified grip's makes a difference. It's to bad Uncle Mikes no longer makes grips.
 
I read where someone else tried this and I love it. If you cut it just right you keep the hook from the second finger groove for your hand to get a good hold. It covers the back of the grip in a little bit of rubber giving you more to hold onto and maybe absorbing some recoil. Why this isn't made in mass quantity I don't know.

Won't that void the warranty????????
 
Won't that void the warranty????????

Uncle Mike's doesn't make grips anymore. As far as the S&W warranty, I am unaware they cover aftermarket grips. The original grip for this gun is the very small open back two finger Uncle Mike's grip that came from the factory. I am unsure how else to answer your question.
 
2 fingers and a thumb

Years ago I was shooting a 1911.
An instructor taught me to use only the first 2 fingers and thumb to shoot with. Leave the other fingers loose.
I can see where doing this with a revolver would stop
you from gripping to gun too tight and shooting to the
left or right, depending upon you being right or left handed.
 
I recently purchased UM Combats from S&W. Check out the website, they may still have some in stock.
 
I recently purchased UM Combats from S&W. Check out the website, they may still have some in stock.

Are these the ones marked J synthetic full size grip w/ S&W logo?

When you trim the "3rd finger" off are they good for pocket carry like the standard grip? How much improvement do you get as far as recoil? Is the rubber so sticky that a tshirt will catch on it if I carry IWB?

Sorry for all the questions. I just picked up a 642. After 100 rounds it left a bruise in the web of my hand. Would love something a bit less abusive.

fbird
 
Uncle Mike's doesn't make grips anymore. As far as the S&W warranty, I am unaware they cover aftermarket grips. The original grip for this gun is the very small open back two finger Uncle Mike's grip that came from the factory. I am unsure how else to answer your question.

You have to be around Caje awhile to fully appreciate his warped sense of humor.:rolleyes:

"That's a joke, I say, THAT'S A JOKE, SON!" Foghorn Leghorn 1953
 
I recently bought a S&W 637, this is my first snub nose gun. First time out to the range with it I couldn't hit target at 21 feet. Tried different grip, take in more and less front sight. Still could not hit target. Pulled out my Taurus .357 with 4" barrel and it was grouping fine. I could not figure out if it was me or the gun. I was thinking about buying larger grips, to get a third finger on for better control.
Later that day a friend stoped over. I told him about my new toy and trip to the range. He has a .38 snub nose he carries on and off for years. He wanted to see the gun and ammo I was shooting. He looked at me with a smile and said, "*******, you don't go firing 158 gr. bullets out of a snub nose".

Lesson Learned...
 
M....bob54: just laugh at/with him. That's all.

Oh. I take people way to serious sometimes. I try to figure that if you just don't know, then you just don't know. I used to think a "BBQ gun" meant that you had some kind of charcoal bluing on your gun. Derrr on my part on that one.
 
Are these the ones marked J synthetic full size grip w/ S&W logo?

When you trim the "3rd finger" off are they good for pocket carry like the standard grip? How much improvement do you get as far as recoil? Is the rubber so sticky that a tshirt will catch on it if I carry IWB?

Sorry for all the questions. I just picked up a 642. After 100 rounds it left a bruise in the web of my hand. Would love something a bit less abusive.

fbird

I don't think the Uncle Mikes had any logo's on them. The three finger version is what used to be standard on the .357 model J's. My 640 came with this grip and I never cared for the half moon shaped grip it made. I always grasped it either pointed up or down with no reference to pointing straight out and away. So I never used it until I chopped it. I don't think it so much absorbs the recoil as it allows a proper hold on the grip so you handle it under recoil better. The regular two finger version is so tiny that I can't get a good hold on that one either. Chopping the bottom off split the difference for me to have more to hold, not add too much bulk, and somehow I can point straight out now with not using the little finger too much or too little. The rubber is more like a plastic so no I don't think it's too tacky. If new wood grips won't snag your shirt I wouldn't think this does either as they aren't sticky at all and the checkering is very low. The rubber is solid enough that it can take sandpaper without gumming up. And the added width may spread more around your hand under recoil. I may have over explained, I'm bad about that.
 
I recently bought a S&W 637, this is my first snub nose gun. First time out to the range with it I couldn't hit target at 21 feet. Tried different grip, take in more and less front sight. Still could not hit target. Pulled out my Taurus .357 with 4" barrel and it was grouping fine. I could not figure out if it was me or the gun. I was thinking about buying larger grips, to get a third finger on for better control.
Later that day a friend stoped over. I told him about my new toy and trip to the range. He has a .38 snub nose he carries on and off for years. He wanted to see the gun and ammo I was shooting. He looked at me with a smile and said, "*******, you don't go firing 158 gr. bullets out of a snub nose".

Lesson Learned...

This has always been a bullet weight vs velocity issue in my experience. The heavier the bullet the hotter you need it, the light weights need less velocity to shoot with fixed sights. If you hand load you can try this with the minimum powder and gradually add until it shoots to point of aim. If I remember right, in my 637 I aim lower than center to hit center with 110 gr and I aim higher than center to hit it with 158. I may be saying that backwards. Cylinder gap, 1 7/8 vs 2 or 2 1/8 barrels, and more can also change everything.
 
Thank you for the explanation. I really appreciate it. What did you use to cut the grips? Do you feel these are a better option than some of the other grips out there such as pachmayr, hogue ect.?

I don't think the Uncle Mikes had any logo's on them. The three finger version is what used to be standard on the .357 model J's. My 640 came with this grip and I never cared for the half moon shaped grip it made. I always grasped it either pointed up or down with no reference to pointing straight out and away. So I never used it until I chopped it. I don't think it so much absorbs the recoil as it allows a proper hold on the grip so you handle it under recoil better. The regular two finger version is so tiny that I can't get a good hold on that one either. Chopping the bottom off split the difference for me to have more to hold, not add too much bulk, and somehow I can point straight out now with not using the little finger too much or too little. The rubber is more like a plastic so no I don't think it's too tacky. If new wood grips won't snag your shirt I wouldn't think this does either as they aren't sticky at all and the checkering is very low. The rubber is solid enough that it can take sandpaper without gumming up. And the added width may spread more around your hand under recoil. I may have over explained, I'm bad about that.
 
When carving rubber or polyurethane a little WD40 or vegetable oil will allow the rubbber to have less drag on the knife and give you more control. Use a fine 6" diameter steel wire wheel on a bench grinder to smooth the knife scalloping, round off corners and gently blend other geometries and feather such things as checkering and lines. Be conservative, dip the rubber in cold water frequently to keep heat from building up and melting the material instead of abrading it.
 
When carving rubber or polyurethane a little WD40 or vegetable oil will allow the rubbber to have less drag on the knife and give you more control. Use a fine 6" diameter steel wire wheel on a bench grinder to smooth the knife scalloping, round off corners and gently blend other geometries and feather such things as checkering and lines. Be conservative, dip the rubber in cold water frequently to keep heat from building up and melting the material instead of abrading it.

Thank for the tips! :)
 

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