centex229
Member
I have a Mod 19-3, 6" bbl. haven't fired it yet. The cylinder seems to 'stick' when I try to open it. Latch & yoke move smoothly. Just seems to hang a little before it opens. Any ideas on what I need to check?
cylinder difficult to open
- Thread starter centex229
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First and best bet is the ejector rod is loose----which makes it longer-----and you know what happens then.
Tighten it in place (closed) by hand (fingers) as best you can, remove the entire assembly, separate the rod from the ejector "star", clean both (brake cleaner/similar---anything which leaves no residue), apply a little dab of BLUE "locktite" (one drop is plenty), and reassemble.
I know little to nothing about Model Number guns, but seem to recall you're dealing with left hand threads.
Ralph Tremaine
Note you should support the "star" for final tightening (and subsequent loosening). Put some empty/fired cases into the chambers. Loaded cases work fine too---aside from the fact they fall out with little provocation.
Poor man's ejector rod "wrench" (for final tightening/subseqent loosening) consists of two small blocks of soft wood. Place one on each side of rod, place entire assembly (Block/Rod/Block) in a vise----and SNUG it up----remembering the fact there's such a thing as too tight. It's tight enough when the rod doesn't turn. Rich man's ejector rod wrench may be had from Brownells. Note that if it slips (moves at all) on the rod, you have just boogered the finish on the rod!!!! I have both the rich man's and the poor man's version. I use the poor man's. It's idiot proof.
Note also when you're tightening the assembly, you're holding onto the cylinder (with the Block/Rod/Block in the vise). Holding onto the cylinder gives you an enormous amount of leverage-----way more than you need. Contain your enthusiasm, or the next sound you hear will be SNAP!!! (In other words, there's tight enough----and there's too tight.)
Tighten it in place (closed) by hand (fingers) as best you can, remove the entire assembly, separate the rod from the ejector "star", clean both (brake cleaner/similar---anything which leaves no residue), apply a little dab of BLUE "locktite" (one drop is plenty), and reassemble.
I know little to nothing about Model Number guns, but seem to recall you're dealing with left hand threads.
Ralph Tremaine
Note you should support the "star" for final tightening (and subsequent loosening). Put some empty/fired cases into the chambers. Loaded cases work fine too---aside from the fact they fall out with little provocation.
Poor man's ejector rod "wrench" (for final tightening/subseqent loosening) consists of two small blocks of soft wood. Place one on each side of rod, place entire assembly (Block/Rod/Block) in a vise----and SNUG it up----remembering the fact there's such a thing as too tight. It's tight enough when the rod doesn't turn. Rich man's ejector rod wrench may be had from Brownells. Note that if it slips (moves at all) on the rod, you have just boogered the finish on the rod!!!! I have both the rich man's and the poor man's version. I use the poor man's. It's idiot proof.
Note also when you're tightening the assembly, you're holding onto the cylinder (with the Block/Rod/Block in the vise). Holding onto the cylinder gives you an enormous amount of leverage-----way more than you need. Contain your enthusiasm, or the next sound you hear will be SNAP!!! (In other words, there's tight enough----and there's too tight.)
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DWalt
Member
I normally use pliers and a piece of leather to prevent scratching for such jobs. Sticky opening is nearly always due to slightly unscrewed extractor rods. Note that since the early 1960s, the extractor rod uses a left-hand thread.
50 target
Member
sticky cylinder
If the cylinder release snaps back and forth when cylinder is out and the ejector rod is not loose, will probably be dried oil,powder residue, etc on cylinder center pin. Will need to be cleaned. Use instructions you;ve already received. One thing you can use if no blocks and vice or pliers and leather is a drill chuck. Holds it very securely.
Take care.
If the cylinder release snaps back and forth when cylinder is out and the ejector rod is not loose, will probably be dried oil,powder residue, etc on cylinder center pin. Will need to be cleaned. Use instructions you;ve already received. One thing you can use if no blocks and vice or pliers and leather is a drill chuck. Holds it very securely.
Take care.
Lots of good suggestions already but I would add one . . . loosen the front side plate screw slightly and see if the sticking goes away. It could be something so simple as two of the side plate screws were switched . . . the one at the front rides in a groove in the yoke and is fitted to the gun.
Russ
5Wire
Member
Plus, put a few fired cases in the cylinder before torquing the left-hand thread ejector rod on or off to prevent twisting the rod.
It just dawned on me a Model 19 is a Combat Magnum. A Combat Magnum has an ejector rod shroud. IF this gun has one too, tightening the rod (with the cylinder assembly closed) becomes "more challenging"----a charm school substitute phrase for what I really want to say!!
I've never had the pleasure, but given the gun is closed (not the case here), it occurs to me one could pop the sideplate off, remove that which is necessary to get the hand and the cylinder stop out of play, and then turn the cylinder while doing your best to prevent the ejector rod from turning-------maybe with those pliers and leather.
Agree? Disagree? Am I missing anything here?
Ralph Tremaine
I've never had the pleasure, but given the gun is closed (not the case here), it occurs to me one could pop the sideplate off, remove that which is necessary to get the hand and the cylinder stop out of play, and then turn the cylinder while doing your best to prevent the ejector rod from turning-------maybe with those pliers and leather.
Agree? Disagree? Am I missing anything here?
Ralph Tremaine
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S&W SS Revolvers
Member
The 686-3 just had the very same problem. It was easy to see that the ejector rod wobbled when the cylinder was opened and then spun. It was tight yet slightly bent. I bumped it on the cleaning bench.
A new ejector rod,centerpin and springs were ordered from S&W (very reasonable BTW) and installed. Same problem but slightly better. Spun the open cylinder again and you could see it was slightly out of round. Gently it was bent and works perfectly now. There was a lot of gumming when first disassembled on the centerpin.
A new ejector rod,centerpin and springs were ordered from S&W (very reasonable BTW) and installed. Same problem but slightly better. Spun the open cylinder again and you could see it was slightly out of round. Gently it was bent and works perfectly now. There was a lot of gumming when first disassembled on the centerpin.
5-Shot
Member
All good suggestions. Here's one more. Unscrew and remove the cylinder latch. Then try and open the cylinder using the exposed screw. If that works, as it did on my model 36, the latch is binding and needs to be stoned down in the obvious location.
Ed
Ed
Since this is a gun you haven't fired yet . . . and as if we haven't already given you enough things to check . . . you may have an ejector rod that's too long or a center pin that's too short.
After re-reading the original post I now understand the cylinder hangs up before it swings open. My earlier suggestion to check the yoke (front side plate) screw would more likely be the cause if it sticks while swinging open.
To check the fit of the ejector rod with the cylinder open, press on the center pin at the rear of the cylinder until it's flush with the ejector star bearing surface. The center pin should extend beyond the ejector rod tip .002" or .003" to insure the rod is fully disengaged from the front locking lug.
Corrective action depends on whether the rod is too long or the center pin is too short. If the rod is slightly too long, a judicious use of a stone on the tip to remove any burr can make a big difference. If the center pin is too short, a new one needs to be purchased and fitted by a qualified gunsmith.
Good luck,
Russ
You didn't say if this gun is new or use. If the gun is used it might be you have Hollywood damage (someone slaming the cylinder shut with it loaded & this will bend the crane just enought to do this damage. I have seen clecks in stores do this to new guns.
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